2015 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChĂȘnes
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| Type of Wine | |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | |
| Appellation | |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2015 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (13.5%) |
| Drink window | 2020 - 2034 |
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Comtes Lafon is a highly regarded wine producer known for producing exceptional wines in Burgundy (France). Dominique Lafon, the owner and winemaker, is a respected figure in the world of wine. Comtes Lafon has a rich history that goes back several generations. The estate was founded in the early 19th century and Dominique Lafon has continued the family's winemaking tradition with great success. The winery is located in the village of Meursault, situated in the CĂŽte de Beaune sub-region of Burgundy.
This Volnay also reaches a lonely height, just like the Santenots of Comtes Lafon. The different soil structure gives the grapes in the Clos des ChĂȘnes more thickness and a bit more fat. The elegance and the refined wood tones are comparable to those of the Santenots. The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChĂȘnes, which this year contains 50% whole bunches, is aged 1/3 in new oak. It has a fragrant bouquet of raspberries and blackberries with a hint of iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with lush tannins, a fine acidity and very pure raspberry, wild strawberry and blueberry tones that blossom towards the generous finish.
FACT : The wine is in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you come to pick up the wine you will often also receive a nice discount. You will see the possible discount immediately if you choose Pick up on the Checkout page. We are located almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
| Type of Wine | Red |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Volnay |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Comtes Lafon |
| Grape | Pinot Noir |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2015 |
| Drinking as of | 2020 |
| Drinking till | 2034 |
| Alcohol % | 13.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 92 |
| Vinous rating | 94 |
| Tasting Profiles | Complex, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Rijk, Rood fruit, Tannines |
| Drink moments | Iets te vieren, Met vrienden, Open haard, Romantisch, Terras |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Deze 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChĂȘnes toont een verfijnd boeket van framboos, wilde aardbei en bosbes met subtiele jodiumtonen, medium body, weelderige maar elegante tannines en een frisse zuurgraad die naar een royale, lange afdronk leidt. Daardoor komt hij prachtig tot zijn recht bij gevogelte zoals langzaam gegaarde of geroosterde eend en kruidige kip, bij charcuterie en bij zowel romige als licht gerijpte kazen waar de pure fruitigheid en zachte tannines het vet en zout aanvullen. Extra geslaagd zijn bereidingen als eend Ă l'orange of confit, kip met rozemarijn en citroen en een plank met prosciutto, salami en een stuk ComtĂ© of zachte triple-cream kaas, serveren op een zonnig terras maakt de beleving volledig romantisch. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP (90-92)
Reviewed by:
Neal Martin
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2019 - 2035
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChĂȘnes, which includes 50% whole cluster this year after the fruit was picked on 31 August, will be matured in a maximum of one-third new oak. It has a fragrant raspberry and blackberry-scented bouquet with a touch of iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with lush tannin, a fine bead of acidity and very pure raspberry, wild strawberry and blueberry notes that flourish towards the generous finish. This is a fine Clos des ChĂȘnes, though surpassed by the Volnay Champans and Santenots this year.
My visit to Domaine des Comtes-Lafon was the final during my first full week of tasting, on a damp squib of a Thursday afternoon. The construction in the reception office is now complete and comes replete with a glass floor allowing visitors to peer down at the barrel cellar. Very nice, though to those like me without a head for heights, it just induces mild vertigo. After a customary cheeky cigarette, which I now factor into my schedule, Dominique and I descended down to his barrel cellar during which we had an interesting discussion regarding the reduced 2013 Montrachet that I had tasted a couple of weeks before. He told me that this is his intention, a countermeasure against premature oxidation that afflicted some of his bottles during the early 2000s. In tandem with this move is the conversion to DIAM closures, of which he is a big fan and arguably the highest profile advocate of the closure alongside Domaine Leflaive. "People ask me how I can use DIAM," he told me, "but I reply, how can you use corks when they cause so much TCA?" Touché! This led to a conversation with respect to adjusting the use of sulphur during the vinification. On this subject, Dominique paused for thought before commenting that really the only way to find out is through praxis, using DIAM and then testing bottles. Indeed, he is proactively opening his entire range after one year and beyond and testing sulphur levels. He seemed tempted to reduce the SO2, however, is certainly not inclined to rush into things.
With respect to the 2015s, I tasted his entire range from the CĂŽte d'Or except for the Meursault Goutte d'Or and the Poruzots, both lagging in terms of the malolactic. Dominique remedies this by transferring the wines from barrel into stainless steel vat upstairs to get them going, occasionally using the lees from another cuvĂ©e to nudge the process along. Apart from those two, the malolactics finished in March and these samples that I tasted in barrel had been sulphured though not racked. He was pleased how the 2015s are turning out, though he confessed that throughout the dry growing season his vines had been close to hydric stress, particularly the young vines. He picked early from 27th August with his parcels in the lieux-dits âLuraulesâ and âCrototsâ in Meursault and finished on 5th September in MonthĂ©lie. As usual I commenced with the reds and was suitably impressed by the lavishness of his Volnays, in particular a sensual Les Champans, which is fast overtaking his Santenots as my favorite red from the domaine. The whites do not possess the razor-sharp acidity or the nervositĂ© of his 2014s, not to infer that they wines come up short with the exception of a rather staid Meursault GenevriĂšres, habitually one of my favorite vineyards from Dominique. Actually it was the Meursault BouchĂšres that really impressed me with its nervous energy and precision, not the most well known within his portfolio but performing extremely well this year and beginning to build a solid track record. I noticed some reduction in his top wines, most noticeably in Les PerriĂšres and his Montrachet, something to keep an eye on, in particular for those intent on opening them young. My advice: don't. I think the way Dominique is making his wines now makes them more worthy of bottle age and I write that in the knowledge that he has certainly not been spared premature oxidation in the past. Then again, I don't particularly enjoy a heavy reduction either. Maybe just give them a rough decant if you are inclined towards vinous infanticide. And with that, it was time to speed off to catch my flight home and for Dominique to sneak in another cheeky cigarette.
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Vinous
94
Drinking Window
2021 - 2038
From: Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)
The 2015 Volnay Clos des ChĂȘnes 1er Cru was my least preferred Volnay from Lafon out of barrel, but ends up getting the highest score in bottle. It has a composed, refined bouquet with detailed, slightly earthy red currant and cranberry fruit, the mineral element tucked in just behind and becoming more palpable with aeration. The palate is well balanced with impressive substance, crisp mineral-laden dark berry fruit and subtle cassis and briary notes. This is very focused, persistent and full of tension - a quite superb Clos des ChĂȘnes. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. (DIAM 30 closure)
- By Neal Martin on September 2018
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Comtes Lafon is a highly regarded wine producer known for producing exceptional wines in Burgundy (France). Dominique Lafon, the owner and winemaker, is a respected figure in the world of wine.
History of Comtes Lafon
Domaine des Comtes Lafon was originally founded by Jules Joseph BarthĂ©lĂ©my Lafon, born in 1864. He married Marie Boch in January 1894, whose family were already wine merchants and estate owners in Meursault. He expanded the estate and purchased several important plots at the beginning of the 20th century, such as: Le Montrachet Grand Cru, the Meursault 1er Crus âLes PerriĂšresâ, âLes Charmesâ and âLes GenevriĂšresâ, Volnay 1er Crus âSantenotsâ and âClos des ChĂȘnesâ. In 1961, the entire production of Domaine des Comtes Lafon was bottled on the estate and he permanently moved from Paris to Meursault. Dominique Lafon, RenĂ©'s son, took over the domain in 1984 and gradually ended the sharecropping agreements, so that from 1987 the entire 13.80 hectares are managed exclusively by the Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Lafon is known for its high-quality Chardonnays with an oily and mineral character. The estate owns and produces from several vineyards in Meursault, as well as from other appellations in Burgundy, such as Volnay and MonthĂ©lie.
Production by Comtes Lafon
Dominique Lafon is an advocate of biodynamic farming practices, where sustainability and the health of the vineyard ecosystem are paramount. He uses organic and biodynamic methods in the vineyards to produce wines that reflect the terroir of the region. Comtes Lafon has achieved cult status among wine lovers and collectors. They are often highly sought after for their purity, balance and expression of the unique characteristics of the terroir. The winery produces a wide range of wines, including several Meursault Premier Cru and Village. Some of the most famous vineyards under the Comtes Lafon label are Meursault PerriĂšres, Meursault Charmes and Volnay Santenots. These wines are celebrated for their elegance and complexity. Comtes Lafon wines are produced in relatively limited quantities, making them somewhat difficult to find.
Food Pairings
Deze 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChĂȘnes toont een verfijnd boeket van framboos, wilde aardbei en bosbes met subtiele jodiumtonen, medium body, weelderige maar elegante tannines en een frisse zuurgraad die naar een royale, lange afdronk leidt. Daardoor komt hij prachtig tot zijn recht bij gevogelte zoals langzaam gegaarde of geroosterde eend en kruidige kip, bij charcuterie en bij zowel romige als licht gerijpte kazen waar de pure fruitigheid en zachte tannines het vet en zout aanvullen. Extra geslaagd zijn bereidingen als eend Ă l'orange of confit, kip met rozemarijn en citroen en een plank met prosciutto, salami en een stuk ComtĂ© of zachte triple-cream kaas, serveren op een zonnig terras maakt de beleving volledig romantisch.
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