2024 Rafael Palacios As Sortes Magnum
| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | Spain |
| Region | |
| Appellation | Valdeorras (Appellation) |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2024 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | 1.5 ltr (14%) |
| Drink window | 2026 - 2034 |
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Rafael Palacios, brother of famous winemaker Alvaro Palacios from Priorat, began making wine in Valdeorras in 2004. He purchased old vineyards with Godello grapes from local farmers. All 22.5 hectares of the estate are planted with this grape, distributed across 26 vineyards. The age of the vines ranges from 7 to 91 years old. All plots are cultivated organically. He cultivates his best plots—Sorte O Soro, Sorte Antiga, and Os Canieros—entirely biodynamically. The name of the wine, As Sortes, is Galician for 'hereditary lots'. After all, the Galician inheritance system is structured in such a way that every child receives an equal share of a piece of land; in this way, the vineyards naturally become incredibly fragmented, and everyone receives a 'sorte' or hereditary lot. It often happens that a 1-hectare vineyard is divided into 10 different hereditary lots or 'sortes'. The plural As Sortes is therefore many inheritances together in one wine.
Rafa has his vineyards in Santa Cruz do Bolo, where the soil differs from the rest of Valdeorras. The soil here is entirely granite, with a top texture of coarse sand grains derived from the eroded granite. The granite here is composed of feldspar, mica, and quartz. The quartz, in particular—a mineral of crystallized silicon—lends a mineral and saline character to the wines. The rainfall is high, resulting in very low soil pH and consequently very high acidity. All the 'sortes' share the same soils, with only the texture and grain size varying. The altitude ranges from 650 to 720 m.
Rafa attaches great importance to the selective harvesting of each plot, precisely to avoid losing the unique character of the different parcels. At harvest, the grapes are placed on the sorting table. Cold maceration and maximum protection against oxidation are other techniques he employs to prevent loss of quality. The use of large oak vats is very important. Rafa selects the oak from Northern French forests: the colder the forest, the less aromatic the wood, the more neutral it is, and the better it has oxygenation for élevage sur lies. The wood is lightly toasted for many hours over a very low heat so that the pores of the barrique open, but without being marked by smoke or torrefaction aromas. He performs bâtonnage less frequently than before, as he notices that the wines lose character and personality due to excessive use of the yeast cells. The As Sortes is fermented in large 500-liter wooden vats for a good month, after which the wine undergoes a 6-month élevage in the same vats.
The As Sortes is fresh, clean, and complex, and is very different from other white wines from the Valdeorras. On the nose, we detect notes of yellow fruit, citrus, and spices, accentuated by creamy accents and just a hint of smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with very good acidity, full and spicy yet fresh and smooth at the same time. The finish is slightly briny and mineral and lingers in the mouth. A maximum of (only) 15,000 bottles of As Sortes are produced, making it highly recommended for those who are a bit tired of Chardonnay. The wine has a fine drinking window until at least 2034. This is a 1.5-liter magnum.
FUN FACT: The wine is stored in our climate-controlled Wine Warehouse, and if you come to pick up the wine, you will also receive a nice discount. You will see your discount immediately when you select "Pick up" on the Checkout page. We are located almost next to the main road with ample parking. Click here for our address.
| Packing information | Box |
|---|---|
| Type of Wine | White |
| Country | Spain |
| Region | Galicia |
| Appellation | Valdeorras (Appellation) |
| Winery | Rafael Palacios |
| Grape | Godello |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2024 |
| Drinking as of | 2026 |
| Drinking till | 2034 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 1.5 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 96 |
| James Suckling rating | 96 |
| Tasting Profiles | Fris, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Steenfruit, Wit fruit |
| Drink moments | Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Deze fraaie As Sortes toont frisse citrus- en geelfruitaroma's met kruidige, romige tonen, een subtiel rokerig accent en een ziltige minerale afdronk, gedragen door een stevige, perfecte zuurgraad en een elegante textuur ondanks de 14% alcohol. Daardoor snijdt de wijn door het vet van gevogelte en romige bereidingen, complementairert hij gegrilde of in de pan gebruinde witte vis en geeft hij een frisse tegenhanger aan gestoomde of in wijn gekookte schelp- en schaaldieren, terwijl zijn minerale lengte mooi samengaat met zachte tot lichtgerijpte kazen; kies voor geroosterd gevogelte met citroen en tijm, in roombotersaus gebakken of gegrilde visfilets, ceviche of stoomschelpen met een lichte boter- of wijnsaus en volle schapen- of koekaasjes om het beste uit de wijn te halen. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 96
Reviewed by:
Luis Gutiérrez
Release Price:
$70
Drink Date:
2025 - 2033
The 2023 As Sortes reminded me of the 2021 vintage. It's perfumed, elegant and harmonious, with ripeness, elegance and freshness, with 14% alcohol and superb acidity that make it balanced and lifted up. It comes from six small vineyards ("sorte" locally) planted at the end of the 1970s and 1980s on the north face of the Bibei Valley at 680 meters above sea level on sandy granite soils that give the wine finesse and elegance. It fermented in 500-liter French oak barrels with indigenous yeasts and matured in those barrels with the fine lees for eight months. There's a sense of purity and precision that I like very much, while the texture has very fine granularity. It's very tasty and clean. 23,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2024.
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James Suckling
Score
96
Vintage
2023
Very mineral and austere, this shows exceptional definition through acidity, taut texture and a saline lift that drives a finely detailed finish with restrained stone-fruit ripeness. From five north-facing parcels. Decomposed granite soils add remarkable clarity and precision. Fermented in 500-liter French oak barrels. Drink now or hold.
Jacobo García Andrade
Senior Editor
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Rafa Palacios is the white winemaker of Spain. In barely 1 decade he has put himself on the map as the specialist of top white wines. His influence was enormous. At the moment, Godello is one of Spain's most popular white grape varieties and all the well-known oenologists in Valdeorras have their own project.
Rafael Palacios is the youngest brother of Alvaro Palacios, who became best known for his project in the Priorat. The Palacios family has had the famous Palacios-Remondo bodega in the town of Alfaro (Rioja Baja) for many years, where Alvaro left for Priorat in the late 80s. Rafa is the youngest of nine siblings and worked as an oenologist on the family estate in Rioja. He mainly focused on perfecting the white wine Plácet and thus got a taste for making top white wines in Spain.
After an internship in Valdeorras in Galicia, he was convinced that it would be here that he would make his great white wine with Godello, the typical white grape of this region. He left everything behind at the end of 2003 and in a few months he searched for and bought the oldest vineyards Godello in the highest valley of Valdeorras, Valle del Bibei. He mainly looked for the highest elevation, most difficult to access and least profitable vineyards that the villagers were no longer interested in because they involved too much work and too few yields. He managed to buy 12 hectares in a short time, rented a large garage and cellar nearby for vinification, and in 2004 he made his first As Sortes. His second wine, the Louro, followed a year later.
This wine immediately hit like a bomb and in a short time his wines gained a true cult status at home and abroad. In the meantime, he also uses small amounts of Treixadura and is already thinking about doing even better. The construction of the bodega is completely subordinate to the acquisition of the best vineyards and the making of the best white wine, but in 2011 the building plans have matured sufficiently and he has built a small and practical hall with a view of the vineyard of Sorte Antiga.
Rafael himself calls the Godello the 'lung' of his wines; It is a glyceric variety, with very few aromas. Nevertheless, at high altitudes, this grape is capable of true top performance and acquires a freshness that is unprecedented. Godello naturally has high tartaric acids, which guarantees a good evolution over time. Treixadura is similar to Godello but has more aromatic capacities.
Deze fraaie As Sortes toont frisse citrus- en geelfruitaroma's met kruidige, romige tonen, een subtiel rokerig accent en een ziltige minerale afdronk, gedragen door een stevige, perfecte zuurgraad en een elegante textuur ondanks de 14% alcohol. Daardoor snijdt de wijn door het vet van gevogelte en romige bereidingen, complementairert hij gegrilde of in de pan gebruinde witte vis en geeft hij een frisse tegenhanger aan gestoomde of in wijn gekookte schelp- en schaaldieren, terwijl zijn minerale lengte mooi samengaat met zachte tot lichtgerijpte kazen; kies voor geroosterd gevogelte met citroen en tijm, in roombotersaus gebakken of gegrilde visfilets, ceviche of stoomschelpen met een lichte boter- of wijnsaus en volle schapen- of koekaasjes om het beste uit de wijn te halen.
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