2018 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru "Champans"

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Type of Wine | |
---|---|
Country | France |
Region | |
Appellation | |
Vintage | 2018 |
Grape | |
Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (13.5%) |
Drink window | 2027 - 2042 |
In stock
6 items available
Description
In 1507, a royal officer, secretary of the accounts, was sent to Volnay to make an inventory of the former properties of the Dukes of Burgundy, now in the hands of the crown of France. An epidemic of plague discouraged the officer from entering Volnay. To fulfill his mission, he asked thirty-eight Volnaysians to make a “fair and accurate” survey of the Volnay estate. This survey is part of a huge volume, about twelve centimeters thick, dated 1507, which is preserved in the municipal archives of Dijon. The description is indeed accurate. We recognize the Volnay appellations that are still well known today (Champans, Caillerets, Fremiet, Taillepieds, etc.), and the report specifies in particular that "the King has an undivided third party in the Sous Roiches vines, that these vines are worked 52 and a half, that the total of the King's vines amounts to 275 vineyards, mainly located in Caillerets, Fremiet, Champans, l'Ormeau and Taillepieds.
The vines designated by the term “assises Sous Roiches” are in reality the Clos des Ducs, which the villagers could not call so without risking the wrath of their new sovereign. But the magnificent Clos des Ducs, formerly owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, eventually kept its name and even today its surface area amounts to around 52 ouvrières (2.15 hectares).
The production of great wines begins with respect for the terroir and control over yields in the vineyard. Cultivation practices are respectful of the soil and the plant, and yields are limited, thanks to quality grape varieties (the work of selecting the best plants by Sem and Jacques d'Angerville resulted in the recognition in the early 1950s of a particularly fine and not very productive variety, called “Pinot d'Angerville”). The soil is worked with a plough and when a vine is uprooted, the plot is left in lucerne for three years before being replanted.
The conversion of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville to biodynamics, started in 2006, was completed in 2009. It is a delicate process that is only possible if the team is convinced. As Pierre Masson said: “…in biodynamic agriculture, the human being is the central element. It is the quality of one's vision, one's ability to perceive situations, one's ability to make a judgement and to act that determines the success of a farm and its sustainability.”
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville owns 3.98 hectares in the Champans appellation, just north of the Caillerets appellation. Two parallel parcels make up the appellation's share (11 hectares in total). They extend from the top to the bottom of the Champans climate and hills, thus benefiting from all the characteristics of this remarkable south-east facing terroir, located in the centre of the Volnay Premiers Crus. The soil is poorer, resting on a rocky limestone bench at the top of the hill, while the slope decreases towards the bottom, becoming more clayey, stony and deep.
Historically classified Têtes de Cuvée de Volnay, Champans is the archetype of the great Volnay 1er cru: finesse, fullness and length on the palate with an extra generosity and power specific to it. Depending on the vintage, it deserves 5 to 10 years of aging to fully reveal itself, but it is generally easier to approach young than Taillepieds or Clos des Ducs.
FACT : The wine is in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you come to pick up the wine you will often also receive a nice discount. You will see the possible discount immediately if you choose Pick up on the Checkout page. We are located almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
Specifications
Type of Wine | Red |
---|---|
Country | France |
Region | Bourgogne |
Appellation | Volnay |
Icons | Icon France |
Grape | Pinot Noir |
Biological certified | No |
Natural wine | No |
Vegan | No |
Vintage | 2018 |
Drinking as of | 2027 |
Drinking till | 2042 |
Alcohol % | 13.5 |
Alcohol free/low | No |
Content | 0.75 ltr |
Oak aging | Yes |
Sparkling | No |
Dessert wine | No |
Closure | Cork |
Parker rating | 94 |
Vinous rating | 95 |
Professional Reviews
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP (92-94)
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
Like the Taillpieds, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is another of the more muscular, introverted wines in the cellar, exhibiting aromas of raspberries, rose petals, orange rind and dark chocolate, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and youthfully chewy palate that's amply endowed with ripe tannin and juicy acids. This is a fine Champans in the making, but as is almost invariably the case, it will demand some patience.
After d'Angerville's immensely charming 2017 portfolio—which I'll be revisiting in the spring, as well as going into a bit more depth about the domaine's history and holdings—the 2018 vintage at this Volnay reference point is more muscular and structured, wines that will both need and reward élevage and bottle age. Stylistically, comparisons with the 2005 vintage wouldn't be out of place, though I think these 2018s won't be quite as youthfully unyielding as that year. As ever, the domaine has produced exemplary wines, and I warmly recommend them.
As I wrote last year, followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels—of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d'Angerville isn't quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average age—even if percentages of new wood are very modest—gives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth. But readers can expect more insights into this estate later in 2020.
Published: Jan 09, 2020
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
(93-95)
Drinking Window
2023 - 2050
From: 2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)
The 2018 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an outgoing bouquet similar to the Taillepieds, albeit one with more intellectual weight and gravitas behind it. Black cherries, blueberry and light cassis aromas reveal crushed stone and undergrowth notes, all delivered with intensity and superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firmer, stockier tannins than the Taillepieds, darker fruit and grainier texture toward the persistent finish. I see this has having real long-term potential. Excellent.
- By Neal Martin on October 2019
"It was a pretty uneventful and easy season," a typically sanguine Guillaume d'Angerville told me, as we tasted his 2018s in the ground floor tasting room within his maison that lies within Clos des Ducs. "There was an early flowering around 20 May. There was no significant mildew pressure and the vines reacted better than expected during the dry conditions. They are getting accustomed to it. They didn’t seem to suffer. We started the harvest early on 1 September. You know, the eight most precocious years have all been since I took over the Domaine from my father in 2003. We finished the picking after around five days. The vinification was unusual as the sugar levels were high for the yeasts to work efficiently and so a couple of malos took place during the alcoholic fermentation, which was not healthy for the yeast. So getting the wine to complete dryness was the challenge. Everything is de-stemmed, though for Volnay Frémiets I use a single 80 hectoliter vat and we ended up with more volume than that. So we used an additional smaller vat and in this we used 50% whole bunch that will be included in the final blend."
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
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In 1507, a royal officer, secretary of the accounts, was sent to Volnay to make an inventory of the former properties of the Dukes of Burgundy, now in the hands of the crown of France. An epidemic of plague discouraged the officer from entering Volnay. To fulfill his mission, he asked thirty-eight Volnaysians to make a “fair and accurate” survey of the Volnay estate. This survey is part of a huge volume, about twelve centimeters thick, dated 1507, which is preserved in the municipal archives of Dijon. The description is indeed accurate. We recognize the Volnay appellations that are still well known today (Champans, Caillerets, Fremiet, Taillepieds, etc.), and the report specifies in particular that "the King has an undivided third party in the Sous Roiches vines, that these vines are worked 52 and a half, that the total of the King's vines amounts to 275 vineyards, mainly located in Caillerets, Fremiet, Champans, l'Ormeau and Taillepieds.
The vines designated by the term “assises Sous Roiches” are in reality the Clos des Ducs, which the villagers could not call so without risking the wrath of their new sovereign. But the magnificent Clos des Ducs, formerly owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, eventually kept its name and even today its surface area amounts to around 52 ouvrières (2.15 hectares).
The production of great wines begins with respect for the terroir and control over yields in the vineyard. Cultivation practices are respectful of the soil and the plant, and yields are limited, thanks to quality grape varieties (the work of selecting the best plants by Sem and Jacques d'Angerville resulted in the recognition in the early 1950s of a particularly fine and not very productive variety, called “Pinot d'Angerville”). The soil is worked with a plough and when a vine is uprooted, the plot is left in lucerne for three years before being replanted.
The conversion of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville to biodynamics, started in 2006, was completed in 2009. It is a delicate process that is only possible if the team is convinced. As Pierre Masson said: “…in biodynamic agriculture, the human being is the central element. It is the quality of one's vision, one's ability to perceive situations, one's ability to make a judgement and to act that determines the success of a farm and its sustainability.”
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville owns 3.98 hectares in the Champans appellation, just north of the Caillerets appellation. Two parallel parcels make up the appellation's share (11 hectares in total). They extend from the top to the bottom of the Champans climate and hills, thus benefiting from all the characteristics of this remarkable south-east facing terroir, located in the centre of the Volnay Premiers Crus. The soil is poorer, resting on a rocky limestone bench at the top of the hill, while the slope decreases towards the bottom, becoming more clayey, stony and deep.
Historically classified Têtes de Cuvée de Volnay, Champans is the archetype of the great Volnay 1er cru: finesse, fullness and length on the palate with an extra generosity and power specific to it. Depending on the vintage, it deserves 5 to 10 years of aging to fully reveal itself, but it is generally easier to approach young than Taillepieds or Clos des Ducs.
FACT : The wine is in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you come to pick up the wine you will often also receive a nice discount. You will see the possible discount immediately if you choose Pick up on the Checkout page. We are located almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
Type of Wine | Red |
---|---|
Country | France |
Region | Bourgogne |
Appellation | Volnay |
Icons | Icon France |
Grape | Pinot Noir |
Biological certified | No |
Natural wine | No |
Vegan | No |
Vintage | 2018 |
Drinking as of | 2027 |
Drinking till | 2042 |
Alcohol % | 13.5 |
Alcohol free/low | No |
Content | 0.75 ltr |
Oak aging | Yes |
Sparkling | No |
Dessert wine | No |
Closure | Cork |
Parker rating | 94 |
Vinous rating | 95 |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP (92-94)
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
Like the Taillpieds, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is another of the more muscular, introverted wines in the cellar, exhibiting aromas of raspberries, rose petals, orange rind and dark chocolate, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and youthfully chewy palate that's amply endowed with ripe tannin and juicy acids. This is a fine Champans in the making, but as is almost invariably the case, it will demand some patience.
After d'Angerville's immensely charming 2017 portfolio—which I'll be revisiting in the spring, as well as going into a bit more depth about the domaine's history and holdings—the 2018 vintage at this Volnay reference point is more muscular and structured, wines that will both need and reward élevage and bottle age. Stylistically, comparisons with the 2005 vintage wouldn't be out of place, though I think these 2018s won't be quite as youthfully unyielding as that year. As ever, the domaine has produced exemplary wines, and I warmly recommend them.
As I wrote last year, followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels—of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d'Angerville isn't quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average age—even if percentages of new wood are very modest—gives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth. But readers can expect more insights into this estate later in 2020.
Published: Jan 09, 2020
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
(93-95)
Drinking Window
2023 - 2050
From: 2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)
The 2018 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an outgoing bouquet similar to the Taillepieds, albeit one with more intellectual weight and gravitas behind it. Black cherries, blueberry and light cassis aromas reveal crushed stone and undergrowth notes, all delivered with intensity and superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firmer, stockier tannins than the Taillepieds, darker fruit and grainier texture toward the persistent finish. I see this has having real long-term potential. Excellent.
- By Neal Martin on October 2019
"It was a pretty uneventful and easy season," a typically sanguine Guillaume d'Angerville told me, as we tasted his 2018s in the ground floor tasting room within his maison that lies within Clos des Ducs. "There was an early flowering around 20 May. There was no significant mildew pressure and the vines reacted better than expected during the dry conditions. They are getting accustomed to it. They didn’t seem to suffer. We started the harvest early on 1 September. You know, the eight most precocious years have all been since I took over the Domaine from my father in 2003. We finished the picking after around five days. The vinification was unusual as the sugar levels were high for the yeasts to work efficiently and so a couple of malos took place during the alcoholic fermentation, which was not healthy for the yeast. So getting the wine to complete dryness was the challenge. Everything is de-stemmed, though for Volnay Frémiets I use a single 80 hectoliter vat and we ended up with more volume than that. So we used an additional smaller vat and in this we used 50% whole bunch that will be included in the final blend."
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
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Sign in to unlock professional wine reviews from world-renowned critics