2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
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The drying, grippy feel on your gums and tongue, as with strong tea. It comes from the skins and seeds of black grapes and from oak, and softens with age.
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Body: medium-bodied. Lighter than most red wines from ; 12.5% alcohol.
Tannin: fairly smooth. From ; aged in oak.
Sweetness: dry. Red wine from is almost always dry.
Acidity: fairly high. from the fairly cool climate of .
Aromas: earthy notes, flowers and red fruit, typical of
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Log inThe 2017 vintage is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. The first vintages at this address were, to be honest, so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers wrote off Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice must now be revised as the wines increasingly deserve their attention.
Domaine d'Eugénie has the first rows of vines in Grands-Echezeaux when you drive from Vosne-Romanee. Domaine d'Eugénie has 0.50 hectares of vines at its disposal with an average age of 25 years, but there are also vines that are 60 years old. The soil consists of a clay/limestone combination. In 2017, Domaine d'Eugénie used 60% whole bunches that were matured in 70% new oak barrels. William Kelley and Neal Martin call it one of the most intense and concentrated Grands-Echezeaux's in years.
FACT : The wine is in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you come to pick up the wine you will often also receive a nice discount. You will see the possible discount immediately if you choose Pick up on the Checkout page. We are located almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
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- 100%
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The Wine Advocate
RP (92-94)
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is a great success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of blackberries, wild berries, rich soil tones and espresso roast, framed by a lavish but nicely integrated touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and layered, with a generous core of ripe but juicy fruit, concluding with an expansive, saline finish. While this is quite giving and charming by the standards of the appellation, it's the most concentrated wine in the Eugénie portfolio this year, and will likely prove the longest lived.
The 2017 vintage—the eleventh for this new carnation of the erstwhile Domaine Engel—is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. Early vintages at this address, it's fair to say, were so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers have tended to write off the Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice now needs to be revised, as the wines increasingly merit their attention. Congratulations are due to Mallard and his team for the turnaround they have achieved.
Published: Jan 31, 2019
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Vinous
(92-94)
Drinking Window
2023 - 2040
From: 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is about 60% whole bunches, matured in around 70% new oak. It has a tightly wound bouquet of dark cherry and iodine-tinged fruit that is very well defined, focused and detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, the oak a little too vocal at the moment, perhaps (although I feel the fruit might have been a tad suppressed on the day of my visit). A subtle saline and black olive note emerges toward the tender finish. This is one of the most intense Grands Echézeaux, though it needs more personality to come through.
- By Neal Martin on November 2018
Michel Mallard has overseen the wines at Domaine d’Eugénie since 2006, after François Pinault bought Domaine René Engel following the untimely passing of Philippe Engel. After a tricky start, when the wines were over-oaked and lacked the essence of pinoté, there is now a more hands-off approach in the winery. “We took off some bunches in July as the vines were compensating for being frosted in 2016,” Mallard explained. “We did two green harvests, one in July and one in late August after coming back from holiday. It meant you could take out any damaged and grilled berries the second time. We started the harvest on September 2 and vinified without sulphur, which was only added after the malolactic [as Mallard did last year.] One difference this year is that I filled the barrels from the bottom instead of the top because I felt the wines were delicate and I wanted to reduce their exposure to air. I will rack the wines in January or February.”
Hence, for the first time, instead of tasting directly from barrel, I tasted the 2017s from prepared samples. I usually propose the Grands-Echézeaux as the pick of the bunch, but this year I am smitten by the excellent Clos de Vougeot, whilst the Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées matches the Echézeaux pound for pound. There is a rather modern sheen to these wines, which I know puts off the devotees of Philippe Engel’s more rustic but often profound style of wine. These tend to be a little darker in fruit and a touch more confit. Yet I do feel that they are much better than even five or six years ago when, for want of a better expression, they just seemed to lack soul.
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Deze Grands-Echezeaux 2017 toont geconcentreerde, rijpe kersen en bosbessen met kruidige ondertonen, warme vanille en donker hout van het nieuwe eiken, en een stevige maar elegante tanninestructuur die de wijn veel lengte en verfijning geeft. Daardoor past hij uitstekend bij rundvlees, wild, charcuterie en krachtige kazen: de rijpe fruitigheid en tannines snijden door het vet van gerijpt vlees en charcuterie, terwijl de aardse en kruidige tonen het karakter van wild en rijpe kazen versterken. Kies voor geroosterd of medium-rare entrecote, langzaam gegaard rundvlees of haas met krachtige kruiden en een jus, en serveer bij charcuterie van gedroogde ham of bij volle, gerijpte kazen zoals Epoisses of Comté voor optimaal evenwicht.
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