What is Botrytis?

Botrytis is one of those molds that makes you raise an eyebrow at first. It’s not particularly charming to look at, and even the word itself sounds like something you’d rather avoid. Yet this greyish character plays a leading role in some of the world’s most remarkable sweet wines. The interesting thing is that botrytis is never fully predictable, but when conditions are right, it transforms ordinary grapes into something almost luxurious. A little odd, but definitely intriguing.

The mold with unexpected talent

Botrytis cinerea. It sounds like a new villain in a Marvel movie, but in the wine world it behaves more like a stubborn artist. Sometimes it wreaks havoc in a vineyard, other times it creates one of the most beautiful wine styles we know. Its reputation is a bit mixed, as if even botrytis isn’t sure whether it wants to be helpful or troublesome.

When rot isn’t really rot

In most situations, rot is bad news. You throw away a moldy apple, and bread with a green spot goes straight into the bin. But in Sauternes in Bordeaux, Tokaj and a few other regions, rot is actually welcomed. Noble rot, to be precise. It’s the same organism, just a version that does more good than harm. Like someone who’s usually late suddenly showing up an hour early with coffee.

The mold pierces tiny holes in the grape skin. Invisible to the eye, but just enough to let water slowly evaporate. The grape shrivels, concentration increases, and suddenly aromas of honey, dried fruit and citrus start to emerge. Not the prettiest sight, but appearances can be deceiving.

Botrytis is picky

This process only works under very specific conditions. Morning mist is essential, followed by warm, dry afternoons. Too much rain and botrytis becomes a nuisance that destroys grapes. Too little humidity, and it doesn’t show up at all. It’s as if botrytis follows its own weather forecast and only turns up when everything is perfectly aligned.

For growers this means patience and many passes through the vineyard. They don’t harvest by the bunch but grape by grape. One by one. Sometimes for days in a row.

Why do winemakers put themselves through this?

Because the result can be extraordinary. Wines affected by noble rot gain depth and complexity that can’t be replicated in any other way. Think of classic Sauternes from estates like Château d’Yquem, Château Rieussec, Château Suduiraut or Château Coutet.

Aromas of honey, apricot, saffron, citrus peel and nuts it’s all there. Fresh acidity keeps the wines balanced, preventing them from becoming heavy. It’s a style that sits somewhere between dessert, digestif and simply a pleasant companion.

But it’s not all romance. Harvesting botrytised grapes is expensive, time consuming and risky. Entire harvests can fail if the weather doesn’t cooperate. Winemakers who work with botrytis know exactly why they’re doing it and often have a slightly stubborn streak. Thankfully.

What does noble rot actually taste like?

It varies by region and grape, but there are a few common threads. Think honey, dried apricot, peach, orange marmalade and a soft touch of spice. Older wines develop warm notes of nuts and caramel. It might sound like dessert, but acidity keeps it lively. A kind of organised sweetness.

Botrytis in practice

In Sauternes, Sémillon responds beautifully to noble rot. Sauvignon Blanc adds freshness and tension, while Muscadelle contributes gentle floral notes.

Other wine regions such as Tokaj use different grapes but rely just as heavily on botrytis. In Germany the mold can also appear in certain dessert styles, but only if the year turns out right.

What should we make of this mold?

Perhaps simply accept that botrytis is a character with personality. Sometimes difficult, sometimes brilliant. Noble rot shows that beauty doesn’t always have to be neat or perfect. Sometimes it arrives via a grape that looks tired and wrinkled.

And yet. In the glass everything falls into place. As if botrytis is quietly saying: trust me, I know what I’m doing. Provided, of course, that the weather cooperates.