2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux Grand Cru
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The drying, grippy feel on your gums and tongue, as with strong tea. It comes from the skins and seeds of black grapes and from oak, and softens with age.
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Body: medium-bodied. Lighter than most red wines from ; 14% alcohol.
Tannin: medium. From ; aged in oak.
Sweetness: dry. Red wine from is almost always dry.
Acidity: fairly high. from the fairly cool climate of .
Aromas: earthy notes, flowers and red fruit, typical of
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Log inThe 2017 vintage is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. The first vintages at this address were, to be honest, so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers wrote off Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice must now be revised as the wines increasingly deserve their attention.
Domaine d'Eugénie has one of the most north-eastern plots in Echezeaux. The plot is shallow with mostly limestone and small areas of clay. On average the vines are around 80 years old and they are treated with the Cordon de Royat method. It is a more muscular and powerful wine than the Grands-Echezeaux. Full of dark fruit and deep aromas with a fine structure of tannins.
FACT : The wine is in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you come to pick up the wine you will often also receive a nice discount. You will see the possible discount immediately if you choose Pick up on the Checkout page. We are located almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
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The Wine Advocate
RP (90-92)
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
From vines located in the lieu-dit En Orveaux, the 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru reveals aromas of ripe cherries, cassis, black truffle, rich soil tones and toasty new wood. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with ripe acids and some chewy back-end tannin. As was the case under the Engel family, it's the least exciting of the domaine's grands crus—which is surely at least in part a function of the parcel's location.
The 2017 vintage—the eleventh for this new carnation of the erstwhile Domaine Engel—is a success for Domaine d'Eugénie and the energetic Michel Mallard, delivering supple, expressive and seductive wines that are true to their underlying appellations. Early vintages at this address, it's fair to say, were so oaky and uninspired that serious consumers have tended to write off the Domaine d'Eugénie's wines, but that prejudice now needs to be revised, as the wines increasingly merit their attention. Congratulations are due to Mallard and his team for the turnaround they have achieved.
Published: Jan 31, 2019
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Vinous
(91-93)
Drinking Window
2023 - 2040
From: 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru is 60% whole clusters, matured in 75% new oak. It has a refined bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, tangible mineralité and great tension and poise. The palate is very well balanced, the oak neatly integrated. I like the acidity, the focus and the satin-like texture. It might lack just a little personality, but it is very well defined on the finish, displaying satisfying if not exceptional persistence. It will require five or six years in bottle but should turn out very fine.
- By Neal Martin on November 2018
Michel Mallard has overseen the wines at Domaine d’Eugénie since 2006, after François Pinault bought Domaine René Engel following the untimely passing of Philippe Engel. After a tricky start, when the wines were over-oaked and lacked the essence of pinoté, there is now a more hands-off approach in the winery. “We took off some bunches in July as the vines were compensating for being frosted in 2016,” Mallard explained. “We did two green harvests, one in July and one in late August after coming back from holiday. It meant you could take out any damaged and grilled berries the second time. We started the harvest on September 2 and vinified without sulphur, which was only added after the malolactic [as Mallard did last year.] One difference this year is that I filled the barrels from the bottom instead of the top because I felt the wines were delicate and I wanted to reduce their exposure to air. I will rack the wines in January or February.”
Hence, for the first time, instead of tasting directly from barrel, I tasted the 2017s from prepared samples. I usually propose the Grands-Echézeaux as the pick of the bunch, but this year I am smitten by the excellent Clos de Vougeot, whilst the Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées matches the Echézeaux pound for pound. There is a rather modern sheen to these wines, which I know puts off the devotees of Philippe Engel’s more rustic but often profound style of wine. These tend to be a little darker in fruit and a touch more confit. Yet I do feel that they are much better than even five or six years ago when, for want of a better expression, they just seemed to lack soul.
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De 2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux Grand Cru toont rijpe kersen en bramen, een subtiele cassis-ondertoon met aardse zwarte truffeltonen, warme eik en stevige maar zijdeachtige tannines die voor een volle, geconcentreerde afdronk zorgen. Door die combinatie van rijp fruit, aardse complexiteit en frisse zuren staat hij prachtig naast rood vlees, lam, wild en krachtige kazen: het fruit snijdt door de vetheid heen, de tannines geven structuur bij geroosterd of gegrild vlees en de aardse tonen matchen wild en rijpere kazen. Nog betere harmonie ontstaat bij langzaam gegaard rundvlees of lam met een rijke jus, gegrild hert of wild met kruiden als rozemarijn en tijm, of bij kazen met karakter zoals vieux of Comté.
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