2023 Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Riesling trocken
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Body: medium-bodied. Fuller than most white wines from ; 12.5% alcohol.
Sweetness: dry. Trocken on the label.
Acidity: high. from the fairly cool climate of .
Aromas: flowers, stone fruit and tropical fruit, typical of
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Log inDönnhoff's 2023 Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Riesling trocken GG is similar to the Höllenpfad Premier cru, but considerably more intense and fascinatingly pure in its concentrated and elegant fruit that mingles with spicy and almost smoky, as well as lemon and phenolic notes. It is remarkably complex. Fruit comes from vines that are over 50 years old and grow in sandstone soils. Dense but juicy and refined in its acidity and salinity, this is an elegant and balanced yet pure, refined and layered Mühlberg Riesling with a playful minerality and serious structure. This full-bodied but never alcoholic wine develops a long, intense finish.
VDP (Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter) Grosse Lage is the name for the very best German vineyards, which are precisely delimited per plot. The VDP is an important organisation with around 200 of the best winegrowers in Germany as members. The VDP has mapped the quality of vineyards (and their wines) and divided them into Erste Lage and Grosse Lage, comparable to the qualifications Premier Cru and Grand Cru in Burgundy. In the VDP classification, the classification revolves around terroir instead of must weight. Unique wines with a special expression of the specific plot, a mature character and a great aging potential are born here. Only the very best and, specifically for the vineyard, grape varieties enjoy the privilege of being planted for this purpose. The strictest possible production criteria guarantee the top of the VDP qualification pyramid.
Character
The wine
- 100%
Origin
Bottle
Wine features
Parker
Rating
96
Release Price
NA
Drink Date
2022 - 2060
Reviewed by
Stephan Reinhardt
Issue Date
25th Aug 2022
Source
August 2022 Week 4, The Wine Advocate
Dönnhoff's 2021 Felsenberg GG is pure, bright and flinty on the deep, intense and iodine nose that also reveals phenolic complexity. Full-bodied but refined and elegant on the plate, this is a balanced and light-footed, rich and dense Felsenberg with juicy fruit and crystalline acidity, whereas the tannins step back compared to the Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg. The finish is rich yet refined and saline, with delicate lemon bitters and lush fruit. Although the 2021 is already charming, the wine needs some years on the bottle to show all its complexity and finesse without its youthful charm. This is not an austere wine that needs to soften its edges; it's already dangerously good or even too good to cause patience. But the wine will reward those who can wait. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022.
2021 is, after a long time, once again a classic vintage, something Cornelius Dönnhoff has not had in this century, but for his father Helmut, a harvest in late October and November was still common. The harvest at Dönnhoff was a good two or three weeks later than in recent years, after there had been no hot spells but frequent showers without thunderstorms. Peronospora was the challenge of the vintage. It required meticulous crop protection as well as foliar work to keep the foliage wall airy and healthy. Without such, as well as a late harvest, physiological ripeness would not have been achievable in 2021. The harvest began in the last week of September and lasted until the second week of November, when the nights had long since returned to a sensitive cool. Must weights were low, but the grapes were still ripe, even though acids were very high. Dönnhoff maintains a large team and was able to harvest at the right time in every site. Since there was virtually no botrytis in the middle Nahe, it was not possible to select any Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslesen here, just Eiswein.
The musts were cool due to the cold nights and could be processed without haste.
That the 2021s also managed without residual sugar to balance the high acidity (10 grams per liter) is something no one would have thought at the beginning of harvest, even at Dönnhoff. But since it was partly precipitated as tartar, the wines are riper and rounder on the palate than was thought in the fall. In order to buffer the acidity naturally (with potassium and calcium), the musts were left on the extract-rich grapes longer than usual. The tartaric acid thus found binding partners and could partially precipitate, if the wine was given enough time.
The results of the vintage are outstanding, especially with Dönnhoff, especially with the Grosses Gewächs and the Auslese category. I caught the GG from the Dellchen at the perfect moment at the end of July, but the wine still tasted great to me four weeks later in Wiesbaden.
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James Suckling
DÖNNHOFF RIESLING NAHE FELSENBERG GG 2022
Monday, August 7, 2023
CountryGermany
RegionNahe
Vintage2022
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Score
95
Ripe and concentrated, but also quite austere with stacks of spice and grapefruit character; everything from the juice to the pith and zest! A seriously dry riesling, but with moderate acidity. Long crushed rock finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.
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Weingut Dönnhoff is a winery located in the Nahe, Germany. The estate is known for producing high-quality Rieslings, which are considered some of the best in the world. The winery has a long history of winemaking and is widely respected for its dedication to producing exceptional wines with a sense of place and terroir.
History of Weingut Dönnhoff
The Dönnhoff family has been involved in the wine world for generations, and the history of the estate dates back to the mid-18th century. Helmut Dönnhoff, who took over the estate in the 1980s, has been instrumental in improving production. Under his leadership, Weingut Dönnhoff saw a significant transformation and gained recognition as one of the best wineries in Germany. Helmut Dönnhoff's approach to winemaking is rooted in a commitment to quality and terroir expression. He implemented meticulous vineyard management and winemaking techniques to produce wines that reflect the unique characteristics of the Nahe. The estate's focus on Riesling has been a defining feature of its history.
Nahe
The Nahe region is located between the Palatinate in the south and the Moselle wine region in the north. The Nahe River flows through the region and gives it its name. The region's diverse topography includes valleys, hills, and terraced vineyards. One of the most distinctive features of the Nahe is its varied terroir. The soil types here range from volcanic, shale and sandstone to clay and limestone. This diversity allows for the cultivation of a wide range of grape varieties and wine styles.
The Nahe region is known for the production of high-quality Rieslings. Riesling thrives in these diverse soil and microclimate conditions of the region. In addition to Riesling, other white grape varieties such as Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) are also grown, and some red varieties such as Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) can be found. The Nahe benefits from a variety of microclimates, influenced by its topography and proximity to the Rhine. The region has warmer and drier areas in the valleys, as well as cooler, higher elevation locations, which allow for the production of different styles of wine, from dry to sweet. The Nahe is known for producing a wide range of wine styles, from bone-dry and crunchy Rieslings to deliciously sweet and botrytized dessert wines (noble rot). The region is also known for its sparkling wines and rosé wines.
Production by Weingut Dönnhoff
Weingut Dönnhoff is especially praised for its Rieslings, which are known for their elegance, precision, and terroir expression. They produce a variety of Riesling styles, from dry to sweet, as well as noble sweet wines made from grapes with botryt. The estate is committed to sustainable viticulture and uses environmentally friendly farming methods. They strive to minimize their impact on the environment while producing high-quality grapes. Weingut Dönnhoff's wines have received wide recognition and numerous awards from wine critics and organizations. They are highly sought after by collectors and wine lovers around the world. In addition to Riesling, Weingut Dönnhoff also produces other white grape varieties, including Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Silvaner.
Deze 2023 Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Riesling droog toont geconcentreerde citrus- en gelefruittonen met een flinterige mineraalachtige en licht rokerige ondertoon, verfijnde zuren en een ziltige, lange afdronk die elegant en gestructureerd blijft. Daardoor snijdt hij prachtig door het vet van vette vis en werkt hij verfrissend naast schelp- en schaaldieren en bij sushi of sashimi; kies voor eenvoudig bereide gerechten zoals licht gegrilde of in de oven gegaarde vis, ceviche of gestoomde schaal- en schelpdieren en pure sashimi om de frisse zuur-minerale balans en de subtiele rokerigheid van de wijn maximaal te laten schitteren.
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