2017 Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux Monopole
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How full and heavy the wine feels in your mouth, like the difference between skimmed milk and cream. More alcohol, sugar and oak ageing make a wine fuller.
The drying, grippy feel on your gums and tongue, as with strong tea. It comes from the skins and seeds of black grapes and from oak, and softens with age.
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Body: full-bodied. Like most red wines from ; 14% alcohol.
Tannin: medium. From ; aged in oak.
Sweetness: dry. Red wine from is almost always dry.
Acidity: fairly high. from the temperate climate of .
Aromas: earthy notes, flowers and red fruit, typical of
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Log inWines are the epitome of the quality of the fruit from which they come. With the utmost respect for the grape, the harvest is 100% destemmed, leaving most of the berries whole, not crushed. Pre-fermentation maceration period of 5-8 days at a temperature of 13-14°C. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation between 5-10 days. Secondary fermentation maceration from 3 to 15 days, depending on the harvest. Most years the total maceration period lasts about 4 weeks, which is relatively long for traditional winemaking in Burgundy. They believe it is much more beneficial to give the extracted matter enough time to structure itself into something more stable and harmonious during vinification.
Depending on the appellation and the age of the vines, our wines are aged for 18 to 24 months in barrels, with a percentage of new oak ranging from 0% for the Village appellations to 30% for the old vines of Clos des Epeneaux. With an area of 5.23 hectares, the Clos des Epeneaux is one of the largest monopolies of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits (including both 1er crus and grands crus). The vines range between 30 and 80 years, with a planting density of 12,000 vines/hectare. It is divided into 4 units, which are vinified separately.
Character
The wine
- 100%
Origin
Bottle
Wine features
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 94
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Drink Date: 2027 - 2055
The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn't as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it's an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade's patience.
As I wrote last year, the talented Paul Zinetti is doing great work at Domaine Comte Armand, and it's always a pleasure to taste with him. He reported average yields of 40 hectoliters per hectare in 2018—down a little after 2017—and that he destemmed everything this year. The vintage is full of promise at this address, displaying depth, concentration and energy, and it will be well worth acquiring. I also revisited in bottle the domaine's emblematic Clos des Epeneaux from the 2017 vintage, and I found it performing very well indeed.
Published: Feb 13, 2020
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Vinous
(93-95)
Drinking Window
2023 - 2045
From: 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was tasted from different sectors of the vineyard. The first sample, tasted directly from tank, comes from two parcels, one at the bottom part of the clos populated by 45- to 65-year-old vines on clay-rich soils, and another located in a plot of 35- to 38-year-old vines. This has a precise, focused bouquet of black cherries, bilberry, a touch of oyster shell and just a hint of blue fruit. The 30% new oak is neatly integrated. The medium-bodied palate shows supple tannins laced with a fine bead of acidity. It exerts a gentle grip and feels quite saline toward the finish. A second sample from limestone soils demonstrates a little more amplitude and a higher percentage of red fruit, not to mention a silkier finish, while a third sample from 86- to 98-year-old vines provides the floral scents and the persistency, perhaps the intellect, of what will be the final blend. This does not possess quite the persistency of the greatest Clos des Epeneaux that I have encountered, yet it is undoubtedly a beautifully made wine.
- By Neal Martin on October 2018
Having visited the domaine at the height of the 2018 harvest when head winemaker Paul Zanetti was tackling crates of bunches pouring in from the vineyard, I returned just four weeks later to taste the 2017s. “Fortunately, there was no frost in 2017, just a little oïdium and mildew, but it was fine at the end of the season,” Zanetti told me, calmer now that his last harvest was safely in the vats. “I did a last treatment at the end of July to preserve the leaves against mildew, and the sanitary conditions were good when the fruit came in. We cropped up to 45hl/ha for the Village Crus and 35hl/ha for the Clos des Epeneaux, starting the picking on September 3 and finishing on September 11 with the Auxey-Duresses and Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru. It was still important to take out any pink berries, and initially the colour extraction was low, so I thought about making an additional punch-down. Instead, I just kept the grapes at 28° Celsius for 10 days to two weeks, and slowly the colour came and the tannin became more rounded and elegant. Everything was de-stemmed. The Clos des Epeneaux is around 13.5% to 13.8% alcohol. The 2017 is my first vintage using all four blocks of the Clos des Epeneaux [since recent vintages have been affected by frost or hail.] We pumped over this week with a small quantity of SO2.”
The 2017s from Comte Armand show genuine succulence and freshness and precocious style; they are wines designed to give pleasure. The good news is that you do not have to secure an allocation of Clos des Epeneaux to enjoy these wines. Make a beeline for the Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, a delightful Pinot Noir packed with ripe fruit, or the Volnay Les Fremiets, which exudes purity and precision. As my tasting note indicates, I tasted the Pommard Clos des Epeneaux from three different cuvées due to be blended and bottled just before Christmas, each illustrating their contribution to the blend. Whilst I feel that the 2017 might not necessarily be up there with the greatest vintages, it will be a sensual and saline Pommard that will surely offer a couple of decades of drinking pleasure.
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Deze Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 2017 toont verfijnde aroma's van framboos, zwarte kers en rozenblaadjes met een subtiele toets van nieuw eiken, een medium-vol lichaam, sappige zuren en fluwelige maar presente tannines met een lichte ziltigheid in de finale. Daardoor snijdt de wijn prachtig door vet en rijke sauzen heen en vormt hij een mooie tegenhanger van rundvlees, lamsgerechten, wild en stoofschotels omdat de zuren en tannines het umami en de krachtige smaken accentueren zonder te overheersen. Kies voor langzaam gegaarde of gestoofde bereidingen zoals boeuf bourguignon, lamsbout met rozemarijn of hertstoof met jeneverbessen, of voor roast beef en kruidige lamskoteletten om de complexiteit en elegantie van deze wijn maximaal te laten spreken.
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