2009 Bodegas Numanthia Termanthia
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How full and heavy the wine feels in your mouth, like the difference between skimmed milk and cream. More alcohol, sugar and oak ageing make a wine fuller.
The drying, grippy feel on your gums and tongue, as with strong tea. It comes from the skins and seeds of black grapes and from oak, and softens with age.
How much sugar you taste, from dry to sweet. Fruity is not the same as sweet: a dry wine can taste of ripe fruit.
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The bars follow how sommeliers taste (WSET): body, tannin, sweetness and acidity, each from low to high.
Body: powerful. Like most red wines from ; 15% alcohol.
Tannin: tannic. From ; aged in oak.
Sweetness: dry. Red wine from is almost always dry.
Acidity: fairly low. from the warm climate of .
Aromas: earthy notes, dark fruit and red fruit, typical of
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Log inThe top version of Bodegas Numanthia. Only made in the good years and only a limited number of bottles. Comes from the best parts of the vineyards that have an incredible age, namely between 70-100 years old. Made from 100% tinto de toro. An icon The Termanthia has a full, robust taste with a good weight. This is perhaps the most powerful Termanthia that is made for the lover of a sturdy, heavy, powerful wine. The wine has beautiful notes of ripe dark cherries, cassis and blueberries fanning out to a dense peppermint-tinged finish. Powerful but also elegant is actually the best summary. La Bodega Numanthia is located in the village of Valdefinjas in the province of Zamora. It was built in 1998 by the Eguren family - the famous Rioja family ( Sierra Cantabria ) and also known for the Teso La Monja.
The winery has 49 hectares of vineyards in the municipalities of Valdefinjas and Toro. With vines between 70 and 100 years old. There is also a fantastic farm (Teso Lanes) in Argujillo. Miguel and Marcos Eguren's goal is to make the best wine in Toro. In 2008, the winery became part of the French luxury group LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). Manuel Louzada has been the manager since 2009. This winemaker was responsible for the production of wines and sparkling wines of Bodegas Chandon in Argentina for ten years (just think of the beautiful Terrazas de los Andes and Cheval des Andes). An iconic wine. The 2015 wasn't released until mid-2022.
Character
The wine
- 100%
Origin
Bottle
Wine features
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 95
Reviewed by:
Neal Martin
Release Price:
$200
Drink Date:
2017 - 2030
The 2009 Termanthia has a fragrant bouquet of dark berries, mulberry, juniper and lavender, with vanilla-tinged notes emanating from the oak. The palate is full-bodied with firm but quite fine tannins, plus a fine sense of symmetry. It is very sweet with plenty of candied orange peel and even a hint of molasses towards the succulent, fleshy, slightly spicy finish. This is sleek and sensual and deserves five years, perhaps more, in the cellar. Drink 2017-2030.
Tell me, did you automatically skip directly here before perusing the rest of this report? Naughty you. But it would not surprise me, since it was this address that brought Toro global attention, and so a visit to Numanthia Termes was a priority. I only need adumbrate the history of the estate. Named after an ancient Spanish city said to have resisted Roman invasion for 20 years, Numanthia was founded by the Eguren family in 1998 in Valdefinjas. Its wines enjoyed overnight critical acclaim, including in this very publication, and it was the catalyst for other winemakers to exploit Toro and recreate their success. The source of quality was derived from an exceptional parcel that included 120-year-old un-grafted vines that had resisted phylloxera with the resilience of those ancient Spanish soldiers. A new winery was constructed in 2007, but in February 2008 it was announced that the estate had been sold to LVMH. Winemaker Marcos Eguren agreed to stay on for two more vintages before he moved on to establish his own winery close by (see “Teso la Monja”). Taking the winemaking reins, Manuel Lazueda has overseen recent vintages, and he kindly not only showed recent releases from Numanthia, but conducted a complete vertical of Termanthia from the maiden vintage. Naturally, there has been speculation how I would find these wines, which come cloaked in 200% new oak. You would presume they are an anathema to what I believe constitutes a great wine. You have to trust me when I say that I tasted without prejudice and without being influenced by previous scores or remarks. There is no question that Lazueda is a talented, perspicacious and passionate winemaker and is overseeing what LVMH themselves describe as a “luxury brand,” according to their website, one said to be purchased for a cool $25 million. That ineluctably creates expectation from every quarter – consumers, investors, collectors, shareholders and yes, critics. I admired both vintages of Numanthia – a statement that might surprise those who incorrectly assume that my so-called “classical” palate does not appreciate modern styles of winemaking. Furthermore, I believe that it offers great value for money considering the cache of the name. Now for a vertical of Termanthia from the debut vintage, and perhaps here we begin courting controversy. In a nutshell, tasting through every vintage from the maiden 2000, I was rather underwhelmed by the first few vintages but found more to admire in later releases. I asked Lazueda what changes he felt there have been over the years. He replied that since 2004, though tannins have increased, they have become smoother, and in a vintage such as 2009, he waited one or two more days to obtain sweeter tannins. Of course, we had a long discussion on the oak regime of 200% new Taransaud oak. When pressed, he told me that they have trialed batches at 100% new oak, but that for now they will continue the present modus operandi. He proposed that despite the level of new oak, that it does not impinge upon the personality of the wine. We will have to agree to disagree on that point. When I enquired why they used particular cooperages, he explained what each imparted, at which point I highlighted the contradiction that the oak did not alter the character of Termanthia. It does. It has to. Given that the subject is a precious parcel of ancient Tinto de Toro vines, would terroir be expressed with greater clarity with less dependence upon new oak? Or should we consider 200% new oak to be an intrinsic part of its terroir? Your answer to those questions will dictate your appreciation of Termanthia, at least from a philosophical standpoint. Consider Pablo Alvarez’s comments as to the reason why he does not mature Pintia for over 12 months. However, what I would say is that I admired these wines far more that I suspect many would predict. Doubtless those whose interest does not extend beyond scores will interpret my scores as an unforgivable attack on one of Toro’s icons, a criminal downgrading. The truth is, I consider Termanthia to be one of the region’s finest wines, even if my criteria for what constitutes a “perfect” wine might be more stringent than others. I consider it to be one of the top two or three Toro wines alongside Alabaster from Teso la Monja, Pintia and the San Roman from Bodegas Maurodos. However, perhaps with reconsideration of the oak regi, it could well become the greatest, but that is their decision to make and not mine. I merely express an opinion, but one that I feel is not mine alone.
Importer: LVMH; www.lvmh.com
Published:
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James Suckling
Score
93
Avg Price (ex-tax)
$ 254
Numanthia Toro Termanthia 2009
Friday, Jul 17, 2015
Color
Red
Country
Spain
Region
Castilla y León
Vintage
2009
Download Shelftalker
Bark, moss and dark fruit character. Blackberry, blueberry, violets and rose aromas too. Full-bodied, chewy and rich. Hints of wood still. A muscular and big wine. Yet remains fresh. Drink now or hold.
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Vinous
94
From: New Releases from Spain (Sep 2012)
Inky purple. A heady, complex bouquet evokes blackberry and boysenberry preserves, smoky Indian spices, cola and mocha. Lush, palate-staining dark fruit flavors show liqueur-like depth and power, with notes of star anise and candied violet adding complexity and lift. The sweet, seamless finish clings with impressive authority and leaves smoke and floral pastille notes behind. Shows the richness of the vintage to full advantage but there's absolutely nothing heavy about this wine, which clocks in at an unsurprising 15% alcohol.
- By Josh Raynolds, September 2012
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The Numanthia vineyards are located next to the small village of Valdifinjas in the province of Zamora. The vineyard was founded in 1998 by the Eguren family from the Rioja region. From the beginning, Marcos and Miguel Eguren's goal was to produce the best wines from the Toro region. The company was later bought by the French luxury products giant LVMH.This region is located in the south-east of the province of Zamora and covers 62,000 hectares. Toro wines are made exclusively from one grape variety: The Tinta de Toro. Bodegas Numanthia harvests very selectively, resulting in one of the lowest yields in the world, namely 2000 to 3000 kg. per hectare.
De 2009 Numanthia Termanthia toont geconcentreerd donker rood en zwart fruit zoals bramen en moerbei, met onderscheidende tonen van jeneverbes en lavendel, warme vanille van nieuw eiken en zoete accenten van gekonfijte sinaasappelschil en een hint van melasse, vergezeld van volle body en fijne, stevige tannines. Daardoor vormt hij een perfecte tegenhanger voor gerechten met rijk vlees en uitgesproken smaak; de tannines snijden door het vet van geroosterd rundvlees en lamsvlees, versterken de diepe smaken van stoofschotels en completeren de aardse, intense aroma’s van wild en gerijpte harde kazen. Bereidingen met lange, langzame garing zoals langzaam gestoofd rundvlees of wildragout, royaal geroosterd vlees met een korst of gegrilde lamskoteletten en geserveerd op kamertemperatuur of licht gedecanteerd werken bijzonder goed bij deze wijn omdat ze zowel de fruitconcentratie als de zachte tannines laten schitteren.
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