2023 By Farr Chardonnay

Gary Farr has been making wine in Moorabol Valley near Bannockburn, about an hour's drive from Melbourne, since 1978. Before starting work in Australia, he traveled the world and learned the trade at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, Cristom in Oregon, and Calera in California. Unsurprisingly, it was here that he became captivated by Pinot Noir and—not without a struggle—brought it back to Australia. By Farr also produces premium Chardonnay and has planted Shiraz and Viognier. Today, the business has been taken over by the next generation, Nick Farr, although Gary still keeps a watchful eye. The By Farr winery covers an area of 130 hectares, of which 36 hectares are planted with vines.

Victoria is the wine region in southeastern Australia and one of the country's few cool climate zones. Victoria has a predominantly cool to temperate climate. The proximity of the ocean, elevation differences, and vineyard exposure play a major role. If we treat all sub-regions as a single entity, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the two specialties. They are produced in all styles. Pinot Noir varies from delicate to more structured, but the common denominator is its pure fruit character. Chardonnay ranges from full-bodied and concentrated from Geelong to light and fresh from the Mornington Peninsula.

The By Farr Chardonnay comes from the same site as the Sangreal Pinot Noir—composed of red soil over limestone—and was planted in 1994. The limestone at this location is not visible on the surface as it is at other sites. The limestone begins 20 to 30 cm below the surface, extending to the depths of the vines' root zone. It is a very exposed north-facing slope. The clones used for the Chardonnay are a blend of Dijon clones and Penfolds 58. The grape bunches are very selectively hand-picked at optimal ripeness. In the vinification cellar, the bunches are pressed whole with exceptional care, and the juice is allowed to rest under high chilling conditions to allow the coarser components to settle. Subsequently, the clean juice is transferred to French oak barriques (30% new) to undergo spontaneous alcoholic fermentation with wild (grape-native) yeasts over a period of more than a month. Subsequently, the young wine is transferred to clean barriques for malolactic fermentation and a period of aging on the lees. Approximately 11 months after the harvest, the wine is assembled, clarified, optionally lightly filtered, and bottled. In the glass, the By Farr is a bright straw-yellow color. On the nose, aromas of grapefruit, papaya, pineapple, roasted almonds, popcorn, and a hint of flint. On the palate, notes of lime peel, nectarines, tropical fruit, and brioche, accompanied by a long, mineral finish with delicately fresh acidity.