2022 Telmo Rodriguez Branco de Santa Cruz

Winemaker Telmo Rodriguez is labeled as one of the young lions of the Spanish wine industry. He studied at the University of Bordeaux and later in the Rhône with the famous August Clape. He was the winemaker of La Granja Senora De Remelluri, his father's bodega in Rioja. He left there to become what some would call a flying winemaker. However, Telmo prefers to call itself a 'driving winemaker'. he lives in Madrid and drives his car to the areas where he makes wine. In a short time his wines have found a place on the international playing field. One example: in Tom Stevenson's Wine Report 2008, Telmo is included among the top 10 producers from Spain. We once again spoke extensively with Telmo Rodriguez. That is always a pleasure. If you sit down with him you always learn something or he gives food for thought. What makes this 'conscience of the Spanish wine world' so special? When Telmo completed his studies in Bordeaux and then had internships with people like Chave (Hermitage), Clape (Cornas) and Dürrbach (Trévallon) he came back to Spain. There he saw other Spaniards who had studied in France bringing French grape varieties and customs to Spain. For example, there was more and more wire guidance, while the Spanish system had always been free-standing sticks. Telmo concluded that he wanted to focus on the old qualities of Spain such as freestanding sticks, indigenous grape varieties and field blends. In addition, he was the first in Spain to introduce modern labels and he opposes the rigid Spanish wine laws.

Free standing sticks
Spain used to be a country of bush vines: the sticks were so far apart per area and per vineyard that they could each get enough water. If you place your sticks far apart with wire articulation, the stick will grow far and become much too large. With wire articulation, you therefore need many more sticks per hectare. However, the problem is that there is not enough water for this and you therefore have to irrigate, in areas that often already suffer from a shortage of water. In addition, the grapes hang more in the shade with free-standing sticks, which gives less chance of 'burning' and leads to less stewed fruit and fresher acids. The only downside to free-standing canes is that more manual work is involved in vineyard management and harvesting. Telmo works almost exclusively with bush vines.

Native grape varieties
It was clear to Telmo that there are so many good indigenous varieties in Spain that importing 'the big five' (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah) from France was not necessary at all. He was one of the first to produce good Rueda from Verdejo and Viura, he embraced Mencia and Godello in Valdeorras, Monastrell in Alicante, Moscatel in Malaga, Garnacha in Cebreros…. In the mid-1990s he was still considered crazy with this philosophy, but now everyone is following him.

Field blends
There used to be many vineyards in Spain with various grape varieties mixed together, also called 'field blends'. It is often argued against field blends that the varieties (that are picked together) are not all ripe at the same time. It speaks for the fact that diversity and disease resistance increase and that it promotes complexity. Telmo now has two vineyards with field blends in production. In Rioja he makes it Las Beatas (named after the vineyard, first vintage awarded with 97 points by Parker) and in Valdeorras Las Caborcas. Beautiful, original wines!

Spanish wine laws
Telmo was the first to remove the word Reserva from a Rioja in 1995. In his words: 'I ask my wines how long they want to stay in the wood'. One year grapes can easily handle a 12-month aging in wood, but not in another year. There was consternation about Las Beatas: the Consecho initially did not want to approve the wine made with a field blend as Rioja… while there was a time when all Rioja was made that way! Consecho did not push this to the extreme and ultimately fortunate for them, given the enormously high international appreciation.

Because Galicia borders the Atlantic Ocean on two sides, its gastronomy is very focused on fish and shellfish. The steep northwest coast hides a number of small fishing villages in addition to the larger ports. The local specialties are percebes (barnacles) and the more common oyster, mussel, crab, lobster, shells and shrimp. One can also find all kinds of saltwater fish and lampreys which are abundant in the rivers at certain times of the year. Inland, the cuisine becomes heavier and more meat is used (pig trotters, ham, duck) and traditional Northern Spanish specialties: chorizo (spicy sausage) and callos (tripe).

Vineyards

The vineyards in Galicia have a remarkable terroir diversity. Galicia is home to different microclimates and soil types in its different sub-regions, leading to a wide range of wine styles. Whether you're looking for refreshing white wines, robust red wines or somewhere in between, Galicia has it all.

The influence of the nearby Atlantic Ocean is unmistakable. The cool, moist sea air influences the climate in Galicia, resulting in mild temperatures and frequent precipitation, especially in the coastal areas. These conditions are favorable for the production of fresh, vibrant white wines that have established the region's reputation.

Traditional wine growing methods, such as pergolas and espaliers, are widely used in the vineyards of Galicia. These systems provide adequate sunlight and air circulation around the vines, which is vital for disease prevention and the ripening process.

Galicia's vineyards are often surrounded by an abundance of native plants and trees, contributing to the region's biodiversity. This supports the natural balance in the vineyards and often has a beneficial effect on the health of the vines.

Grapes

The albariño, treixadura, torrontés and loureira grapes have naturally developed into the perfect partner for shellfish and crustaceans, while the heartier dishes inland call for the traditional Ribeiro and Valdeorras wines.

Wines

The most notable and distinctive wine from Galicia is Albariño, a white wine produced in the Rías Baixas sub-region. Albariño wines are known for their fresh, vibrant taste and aromas of citrus, green apple and peach, and they are often associated with seafood because of their excellent combination.

Another notable wine from Galicia is Godello, a white grape variety used to produce fresh, balanced white wines, mostly in Valdeorras and Monterrei. These wines often have mineral notes and aromas of white flowers and ripe fruit.

For red wines, Mencia is the most important grape variety, especially in the Bierzo region. Mencia wines typically have lively acidity, notes of red fruit and some spiciness.

Galicia is also known for its unique white wine production process called "albariza," where the grapes are grown on stone terraces and protected from the salty sea breeze by stone walls. This contributes to the special terroir effects in the wine.

In short, the wines from Galicia represent a compelling mix of flavors and traditions that make the region an important center for wine production in Spain. The region's cool, maritime influences and diversity of microclimates contribute to the variety and quality of Galicia's wines.

Galicia also has its own cheeses: Tetilla (= Spanish for "breast"), with its suggestive name and shape; Arzua from La Coruña and Lugo, San Simón from Villalba in Lugo and Cebreiro from Puerto del Cebreiro in Lugo. These are all cow's milk cheeses.

Because Galicia borders the Atlantic Ocean on two sides, its gastronomy is very focused on fish and shellfish. The steep northwest coast hides a number of small fishing villages in addition to the larger ports. The local specialties are percebes (barnacles) and the more common oyster, mussel, crab, lobster, shells and shrimp. One can also find all kinds of saltwater fish and lampreys which are abundant in the rivers at certain times of the year. Inland, the cuisine becomes heavier and more meat is used (pig trotters, ham, duck) and traditional Northern Spanish specialties: chorizo (spicy sausage) and callos (tripe).

Vineyards

The vineyards in Galicia have a remarkable terroir diversity. Galicia is home to different microclimates and soil types in its different sub-regions, leading to a wide range of wine styles. Whether you're looking for refreshing white wines, robust red wines or somewhere in between, Galicia has it all.

The influence of the nearby Atlantic Ocean is unmistakable. The cool, moist sea air influences the climate in Galicia, resulting in mild temperatures and frequent precipitation, especially in the coastal areas. These conditions are favorable for the production of fresh, vibrant white wines that have established the region's reputation.

Traditional wine growing methods, such as pergolas and espaliers, are widely used in the vineyards of Galicia. These systems provide adequate sunlight and air circulation around the vines, which is vital for disease prevention and the ripening process.

Galicia's vineyards are often surrounded by an abundance of native plants and trees, contributing to the region's biodiversity. This supports the natural balance in the vineyards and often has a beneficial effect on the health of the vines.

Grapes

The albariño, treixadura, torrontés and loureira grapes have naturally developed into the perfect partner for shellfish and crustaceans, while the heartier dishes inland call for the traditional Ribeiro and Valdeorras wines.

Wines

The most notable and distinctive wine from Galicia is Albariño, a white wine produced in the Rías Baixas sub-region. Albariño wines are known for their fresh, vibrant taste and aromas of citrus, green apple and peach, and they are often associated with seafood because of their excellent combination.

Another notable wine from Galicia is Godello, a white grape variety used to produce fresh, balanced white wines, mostly in Valdeorras and Monterrei. These wines often have mineral notes and aromas of white flowers and ripe fruit.

For red wines, Mencia is the most important grape variety, especially in the Bierzo region. Mencia wines typically have lively acidity, notes of red fruit and some spiciness.

Galicia is also known for its unique white wine production process called "albariza," where the grapes are grown on stone terraces and protected from the salty sea breeze by stone walls. This contributes to the special terroir effects in the wine.

In short, the wines from Galicia represent a compelling mix of flavors and traditions that make the region an important center for wine production in Spain. The region's cool, maritime influences and diversity of microclimates contribute to the variety and quality of Galicia's wines.

Galicia also has its own cheeses: Tetilla (= Spanish for "breast"), with its suggestive name and shape; Arzua from La Coruña and Lugo, San Simón from Villalba in Lugo and Cebreiro from Puerto del Cebreiro in Lugo. These are all cow's milk cheeses.

Doña Blanca is a white Spanish and Portuguese grape variety grown primarily in the northwestern Galicia region of Spain and throughout Portugal from the Douro to the north. The variety is an authorized grape in Spain's Denominación de Origens (DOs) of Valdeorras and Monterrei in Galicia and Bierzo in nearby Castile and León. In Spain, the variety is known as Doña Blanca, while in Portugal, it mainly goes by the name of Dona Branca. The grapes have a thick skin, which does well in the wet maritime climate.

What does wine from the Doña Blanca grape taste like?

Light yellow in color. In the nose aromas of white fruit, floral, white tea, spicy and a light white pepper. In the mouth there is a nice tension in terms of fruit and acidity, with a salty attack. Very clean and flavour invigorating.

The Godello grape is a Spanish white grape variety. The grape grows in the northwest of Spain in the areas of Valdeorras, Ribeiro and Bierzo. At the end of the last century, the Godello grape was almost extinct, but recently it has been in the spotlight again. A real quality grape, which gives aromatic wines.

What does the Godello taste like?

From fresh lime and peach to almonds and an intriguing spiciness. And the Godello combines that rich palette with a soft, flowing mouthfeel. In terms of character, it can be compared to the aroma of the Albarinho and the silkiness of the Viognier. Its affinity with wood makes the wine an excellent alternative for those who are tired of Chardonnay.

There are wines with only Godello grapes, but the Godello can also be used for blending.