2022 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes
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| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | |
| Appellation | |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2022 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | Standard (0.75 ltr) (13%) |
| Drink window | 2027 - 2044 |
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The 2022 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Puligny-Montrachet is a magnificent expression of one of the most prestigious white wine appellations in the world. This village wine combines the refinement and mineral tension of Puligny-Montrachet with the precision and purity that make Domaine des Comtes Lafon one of the greatest international producers of white Burgundy. The 2022 vintage yields a Chardonnay of exceptional balance, refinement, and impressive aging potential.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Domaine des Comtes Lafon has belonged to the absolute top of Burgundy for decades. Under the leadership of Léa and Pierre Lafon, the estate builds upon the vision of Dominique Lafon, who developed the winery into one of the most respected producers of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. The vineyards are cultivated organically and biodynamically, with an emphasis on healthy soils, low yields, and maximum terroir expression. The white wines ferment and age in French oak barrels and remain on their fine lees for an extended period, ensuring depth, complexity, and exceptional elegance.
For more information about Domaine des Comtes Lafon, please refer to the Winery tab.
Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet is regarded worldwide as one of the most refined terroirs for Chardonnay. The chalky soils and cool microclimate produce wines known for their purity, vibrant acidity, and pronounced minerality. The village wine from Domaine des Comtes Lafon comes from carefully selected plots and perfectly reflects the elegant style for which the appellation is famous.
The 2022 volume
2022 is considered an excellent Burgundy vintage. Thanks to a warm growing season, the grapes reached optimal ripeness, while retaining sufficient freshness to give the wines tension and precision. The result is a Chardonnay with ripe fruit, refined acidity, and a beautiful balance between concentration and elegance.
Vinification
The grapes are harvested by hand and rigorously selected. After gentle pressing, the wine ferments in French oak barrels, followed by prolonged aging on the fine lees. This traditional maturation imparts extra depth and texture without overpowering the refined expression of the terroir. The result is a wine in which fruit, minerality, and oak influence are fully intertwined.
Scent, taste and character
The wine opens with refined aromas of citrus, ripe pear, white peach, and lime blossom. These are followed by notes of white flowers, roasted hazelnuts, brioche, and a subtle touch of flint. The calcareous soil provides a pronounced mineral freshness that gives the wine great tension.
On the palate, the wine is elegant and precise, with a silky texture and a beautiful balance between ripe fruit and lively acidity. Flavors of citrus, yellow stone fruit, toasted almond, and a subtle briny minerality blend seamlessly. The finish is long, clean, and energetic, with a refined chalky tension typical of great Puligny-Montrachet.
Drinking window and food and wine pairings
The 2022 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Puligny-Montrachet drinks excellently from 2026 and will develop effortlessly until around 2040.
Preferably serve the wine at 11 to 13°C.
This elegant Chardonnay pairs beautifully with lobster, scallops, turbot, sole, grilled langoustines, poultry in a creamy sauce, veal, mushroom risotto, and aged Comté or Beaufort.
| Block Bundle Options | No |
|---|---|
| Type of Wine | White |
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Puligny-Montrachet |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Comtes Lafon |
| Grape | Chardonnay |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2022 |
| Drinking as of | 2027 |
| Drinking till | 2044 |
| Alcohol % | 13 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | Standard (0.75 ltr) |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 91 |
| Vinous rating | 94 |
| Tasting Profiles | Bloemig, Complex, Houtgerijpt, Mineraal, Steenfruit, Wit fruit |
| Drink moments | Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Fris en verfijnd met smaken van witte perzik en groene appel, citruszeste en bloemige tonen, aangevuld met brioche- en bijenwasachtige nuances, een levendige zuurgraad en een zilte, mineraalachtige afdronk. De zuurgraad snijdt door romige sauzen en geeft frisheid bij gevogelte en risotto, terwijl de zilte mineraliteit en subtiele botertoon prachtig aansluiten bij zeebaars, coquilles en langoustines; mooi rijpe kazen zoals Comté vullen de rijke, nootachtige kant van de wijn aan. Kies voor zacht gebakken of licht gegrilde bereidingen zoals in roomboter gebakken coquilles, een pan-seared zeebaars met beurre blanc, geroosterd gevogelte met citroen en kruiden of een romige paddenstoelenrisotto om de balans tussen textuur, zuur en mineraliteit optimaal te laten spreken. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP (90-91)
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
N/A
Another new cuvée at this address, the 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes is more refined and mineral than its generic counterpart, revealing notes of white peach, citrus zest, fresh bread, beeswax and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, pure and lively palate, concluding with a saline finish.
The first produced under the direction of Léa and Pierre Lafon, the 2022 vintage has turned out very well at this address, delivering both quality and reasonable quantity, a welcome change after the vicissitudes of 2021. For now, no big changes are afoot, and Dominque Lafon continues to be a guiding presence—organic and biodynamic farming in the vineyards, barrel fermentation for whites, two winters' élevage on the lees for both colors, and bottling under Diam technical corks (since 2013) continue to be the order of the day. What's new this year are two attractive cuvées of Puligny-Montrachet, the fruit of a sharecropping agreement.
Published: Jan 18, 2024
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Vinous
(92-94)
Drinking Window
2026 - 2048
From: Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)
The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes 1er Cru is another new fermage from 0.5 hectares of vines. The impressively perfumed nose offers hints of brioche and green apples, very well defined, and the wood is seamlessly integrated. The palate is very delineated on the entry, with much more tension than the Village Cru. It is lively and lightly spiced with a persistent finish, urging you back for more. Excellent.
- By Neal Martin on October 2023
Arguably the most prominent Meursault producer, it was big news when Dominique Lafon retired and handed the running to his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre Lafon, the former having taken maternity leave after giving birth to her two children. Of course, Dominique Lafon remains a presence at the winery. They taste together every other week, though in the past, on more than one occasion, Lafon has emphasized how they make the calls. Dominique did drop in during my visit, as I was sure and hoped he would, though it was Pierre Lafon who took me through the wines that included their Mâconnais range. “The 2022 is our last vintage with Caroline Gon [who is not devoted to her and her husband’s domaine, Frantz-Chagnolou]. There was a transition period between her and our new winemaker, Elsie Moore, who has now taken over.” As well as the Mâconnais wines, we tasted through their complete portfolio of reds and whites. “The reds were racked after the harvest at the end of September. They were picked from August 29 and finished on September 4. The alcohol levels are around 13.5%, with a pH around 3.50. We have a new de-stemmer, so we have some whole bunches, around 50% for some cuvées. The whites will be bottled as early as January next year.”
Although Comtes Lafon is renowned for its Meursaults, readers should note that their reds can be outstanding. I was intrigued to taste their Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu, which includes stems (50%), for the first time, a move that enhances this cuvée. It’s not their new recipe, and readers should be advised that the 2023 contains nary a stem. But I feel that their Volnays would benefit from their addition. Beady-eyed readers will also spot a couple of maiden vintages from new fermage agreements: a Puligny Village and Puligny Les Charmes, the latter very promising. Amongst the Meursaults, I usually find that the Les Perrières rules the roost, but in 2022, its position is usurped by a fabulous Les Charmes, a Premier Cru that seemed to revel in the growing season, closely followed by a superb Genevrières. Predictably, the Montrachet is stunning, aged half in new oak in its first year, then used oak for the remaining nine months. It is, as I write in my one-word summation, majestic.
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Comtes Lafon is a highly regarded wine producer known for producing exceptional wines in Burgundy (France). Dominique Lafon, the owner and winemaker, is a respected figure in the world of wine.
History of Comtes Lafon
Domaine des Comtes Lafon was originally founded by Jules Joseph Barthélémy Lafon, born in 1864. He married Marie Boch in January 1894, whose family were already wine merchants and estate owners in Meursault. He expanded the estate and purchased several important plots at the beginning of the 20th century, such as: Le Montrachet Grand Cru, the Meursault 1er Crus “Les Perrières”, “Les Charmes” and “Les Genevrières”, Volnay 1er Crus “Santenots” and “Clos des Chênes”. In 1961, the entire production of Domaine des Comtes Lafon was bottled on the estate and he permanently moved from Paris to Meursault. Dominique Lafon, René's son, took over the domain in 1984 and gradually ended the sharecropping agreements, so that from 1987 the entire 13.80 hectares are managed exclusively by the Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Lafon is known for its high-quality Chardonnays with an oily and mineral character. The estate owns and produces from several vineyards in Meursault, as well as from other appellations in Burgundy, such as Volnay and Monthélie.
Production by Comtes Lafon
Dominique Lafon is an advocate of biodynamic farming practices, where sustainability and the health of the vineyard ecosystem are paramount. He uses organic and biodynamic methods in the vineyards to produce wines that reflect the terroir of the region. Comtes Lafon has achieved cult status among wine lovers and collectors. They are often highly sought after for their purity, balance and expression of the unique characteristics of the terroir. The winery produces a wide range of wines, including several Meursault Premier Cru and Village. Some of the most famous vineyards under the Comtes Lafon label are Meursault Perrières, Meursault Charmes and Volnay Santenots. These wines are celebrated for their elegance and complexity. Comtes Lafon wines are produced in relatively limited quantities, making them somewhat difficult to find.
Fris en verfijnd met smaken van witte perzik en groene appel, citruszeste en bloemige tonen, aangevuld met brioche- en bijenwasachtige nuances, een levendige zuurgraad en een zilte, mineraalachtige afdronk. De zuurgraad snijdt door romige sauzen en geeft frisheid bij gevogelte en risotto, terwijl de zilte mineraliteit en subtiele botertoon prachtig aansluiten bij zeebaars, coquilles en langoustines; mooi rijpe kazen zoals Comté vullen de rijke, nootachtige kant van de wijn aan. Kies voor zacht gebakken of licht gegrilde bereidingen zoals in roomboter gebakken coquilles, een pan-seared zeebaars met beurre blanc, geroosterd gevogelte met citroen en kruiden of een romige paddenstoelenrisotto om de balans tussen textuur, zuur en mineraliteit optimaal te laten spreken.
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