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Drinking Window2021 - 2024
From: The Pfalz – Not False – Promise of 2018 (Mar 2021)
“We always begin the harvest in Ruppertsberg,” noted Libelli, who in fact tends toward a belief that wines from this commune were favored in 2018. That said, the initial harvest passes on this commune’s top sites mostly went into the generic Gutsriesling. Batches for this bottling were chosen from lesser portions of the top sites Gaisböhl, Hoheburg and Reiterpfad as well as the entirety of fruit from three Bürklin-Wolf parcels in Nussbien (with old vines), grapes which at nearly any other address would inform a dedicated, “cru” bottling. White peach and yellow tomato on the nose subsequently generate a tangy, juicy midpalate and finishing impression, lent interest and invigoration by pit piquancy, alkalinity and sweaty salinity.
- By David Schildknecht on November 2019
Here the 2018 harvest began on September 2 with grapes for Sekt but then segued into full harvest, with picking of top sites centering on the September 15-20 interval. The Bürklin-Wolf team managed to avoid any sense of alcoholic weight or acid deficiency in their vintage 2018 offerings. Exclusively gentle whole-cluster pressing is adduced as a major factor in acid retention. But above all cellarmaster Nicola Libelli and his team credit both acid retention and ripe flavors at moderate must weights with this estate’s long-standing biodynamic viticultural regimen and its recent refinement. “It’s taken a few years,” said the young Italian, “but now the team has our latest pruning, de-leafing and harvesting approaches sorted out.” They have, if you will, internalized a sense of where and what to snip. Libelli reported that in 2018 some musts arrived with as little as one gram of malic acid remaining, which goes a long way toward explaining why wines whose finished acid levels hover between the upper fives and low sevens in grams of total acidity come off as animating and in many instances even bright. The 2018 crop was subjected to especially stringent selection. First, any clusters whose grapes were not taut, blemish-free and impeccably healthy were discarded. Then an unprecedented amount of fruit was sold off in bulk. “The reason for so much rejected fruit,” explained Libelli, “was not drought per se – although it was too dry – but rather the high yields, and the strain that large crop loads placed on the vines.” The upshot was a volume of finished wine that in no way reflects its growing season’s inherent bounty.
My early November 2019 tasting sessions included the estate’s “P.C.” – if you will, “premier cru” – wines of the 2018 vintage, which had been bottled just ahead of the 2019 harvest, and which finished largely in the 12.5% alcohol range. Alongside, I tasted their “G.C.” counterparts, due for bottling beginning in December 2019. The G.C.’s had not received their pre-bottling filtration and dose of SO2, which in Libelli’s estimation made the occasion of my visit “a good time to taste them.”
Small shares of certain G.C.’s sometimes end up fermenting in tank if the precious selected lots in question aren’t a perfect fit for available casks (and a small share of the 2018 Goldbächel also fermented in tank); but, as noted in the introduction to my coverage of this estate’s 2017s, Libelli has recently acquired a raft of new casks including small ovals in diverse sizes, so that as those become properly seasoned and ready to employ with top-grade musts, virtually the entirety of Bürklin-Wolf’s vineyard-designated wine (as well as a substantial share of their village-level wine) will be fermented in cask. After a year, the G.C. wines get racked into tank, which is when I experienced their 2018 instantiations. All of the Bürklin-Wolf wines receive only a single, light filtration just before bottling. My notes include one on a Wachenheimer “R” that was bottled 33 months after harvest; and to say that this ongoing Bürklin-Wolf experiment in long élevage is turning out successfully would represent outrageous understatement!
Not for the first time – and not just at this address – I perceive some of the premier cru offerings in Bürklin-Wolf’s collection as rivaling the ostensible grand crus. The comparison in Bürklin-Wolf’s case amounts to a judgment about the potential of Wachenheim’s top sites, since those constitute five of the six P.C.’s, but none of the “G.C.’s.” On the occasion of our tasting the 2018s, Libelli went a step beyond justifying the choice of sites in each category – which is based on a now nearly 200-year-old tax classification rather than on organoleptic assessments – and explained that he perceives the P.C.’s as constituting two groups, with Goldbächel, Rechbächel and Hoheburg being “a bit less extreme or pronounced in terroir character, a bit more approachable and a bit simpler” than the other three. Perhaps it’s mere coincidence, but from 2018 those ostensibly lesser three P.C.’s are also marginally lower in alcohol.
(I have included a bit of background on the sites farmed by Bürklin-Wolf as part of the relevant tasting notes below. For a great deal more background on this stellar estate, its recent evolution and its current methodology, consult the extended introductions to the coverage in my two previous reports, focused on their vintage 2016 and vintage 2017 output. As explained there, each Bürklin-Wolf wine represents a unique blend, but generic and village-designated cuvées are characteristically subjected to multiple bottlings whose potential flavor differences prompt me to reference the relevant A.P. numbers as part of the wine’s name. From vintage 2018, however, there are only two such instances of multiple bottlings. “The idea was to achieve a bit more homogeneity in character by doing larger bottlings,” explained Libelli. Also, I don’t include trocken as part of my descriptions because that word doesn’t appear on the Bürklin-Wolf labels. Every Bürklin-Wolf wine is nowadays legally dry, save for what few are labeled as Auslese, Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese – and there are none of those from 2018.)