2023 Telmo Rodriguez As Caborcas Single Vineyard

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64.95

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Winery

Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez is one of Spain's most influential wine projects. Telmo Rodríguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza have dedicated themselves to restoring historic vineyards and preserving local grape varieties. Their work in Valdeorras has gained international recognition in recent years thanks to a series of terroir-driven wines that showcase the unique character of this Galician region. As Caborcas is among the absolute best of the estate and is produced in very limited quantities. You can find more information about this winery in the Winery tab.

Origin and terroir

As Caborcas comes from a historic vineyard over 80 years old, situated on terraces along the banks of the Bibei River in Valdeorras. The vineyard lies on granite-rich soils that provide a distinct mineral signature and a refined structure. The steep terraces make mechanization virtually impossible, meaning much of the work is done by hand. The relatively cool climate of Galicia ensures the preservation of freshness and aromatic precision, even in warmer years.

Grapes and vineyard management

As Caborcas is a traditional field blend of various local grape varieties planted together in the same vineyard. This historic planting reflects the traditional viticulture of Valdeorras. The old vines naturally yield low harvests and produce grapes of high concentration and complexity. The vineyards are sustainably managed, and the estate is working towards full organic certification of its plots in Valdeorras. The age of the vines and the low yields result in a wine with great depth and terroir expression.

Vinification and aging

After manual harvesting, the grapes are fermented with indigenous yeasts in small oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. This spontaneous fermentation ensures that the character of the vineyard is optimally preserved. Subsequently, the wine ages for approximately fifteen months in small oak barrels. During this maturation, the wine undergoes sur lie aging, which adds extra complexity, structure, and texture. The aging process remains deliberately subtle so that the terroir and aromatic refinement remain central.

Color, smell and taste

The wine has a bright ruby red color with striking vibrancy. On the nose, aromas of wild forest fruits, violets, and white pepper unfold, complemented by nuances of grilled herbs, dried meat, and wet stone. Additionally, there are subtle notes of lychee and lightly fermented aromas that add extra complexity. On the palate, the wine is intense yet remarkably light-footed. The tannins are extremely fine and refined, while the fresh acidity provides tension and precision. The finish is long, mineral, and energetic, with a subtle, controlled rigor that adds extra depth.

Style and character

As Caborcas is among the most elegant red wines of Spain. Despite its concentration, the wine remains transparent, refined, and terroir-driven. The combination of old vines, granite soils, and a cooler climate produces a style reminiscent of great European terroir wines rather than powerful, modern Spanish red wine. The emphasis lies on finesse, tension, and complexity rather than extraction or power.

Volume

The 2023 vintage followed a period of dry conditions that demanded significant attention in the Valdeorras vineyard. However, the old vines of As Caborcas proved exceptionally resilient to these conditions thanks to their deep root systems. The result is a wine with ripe aromas, excellent balance, and an alcohol content of around 13%. The wine is already impressive when young due to its freshness and precision, but will continue to develop over the coming years. A drinking window until approximately 2035 is realistic for this exceptional vineyard wine.

Food and wine pairings

This wine comes into its own beautifully with refined dishes featuring game, poultry, and mushrooms. Roasted duck, guinea fowl, or dishes with truffles also complement the wine's aromatic depth perfectly. Furthermore, thanks to its fresh acidity and refined tannins, As Caborcas pairs excellently with grilled tuna or other hearty fish dishes.

Wine & Food Pairing and Discount

If available, you will find the official factsheet and additional information about this fine wine in the 'Attachments' tab. We will automatically send these to you upon ordering this wine. The wine is stored in our climate-controlled Wine Warehouse, and if you come to collect the wine, you will often receive a nice discount. You will see your discount immediately when you select 'Pick up' on the checkout page. We are located in Dordrecht, situated almost next to the A16 with ample parking. Click here for our address.

You can read full wine reviews from Parker, Suckling, Vinous, and Wine Spectator, among others. Need advice on finding the ideal wine for your dish? Click here for our exclusive Sommelier. Free for Grandcruwijnen customers. In the Food tab, you will find advice on what to look for for the right food and wine pairing, and a number of dish suggestions from our Sommelier.

Packing information Box
Type of Wine Red
Country Spain
Region Galicia
Appellation Valdeorras (Appellation)
Winery Telmo Rodriguez
Grape Mencia
Biological certified No
Natural wine No
Vegan No
Vintage 2023
Drinking as of 2027
Drinking till 2035
Alcohol % 12
Alcohol free/low No
Content 0.75 ltr
Oak aging Yes
Sparkling No
Dessert wine No
Closure Cork
Parker rating 96
James Suckling rating 97
Tasting Profiles Aromatisch, Bloemig, Complex, Donker fruit, Droog, Fruitig, Krachtig, Mineraal, Rijk, Rood fruit, Soepel, Steenfruit, Vol
Drink moments Cadeau!, Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden, Open haard, Romantisch, Terras

Parker

96

James Suckling

97

Winemaker Telmo Rodriguez is labeled as one of the young lions of the Spanish wine industry. He studied at the University of Bordeaux and later in the Rhône with the famous August Clape. He was the winemaker of La Granja Senora De Remelluri, his father's bodega in Rioja. He left there to become what some would call a flying winemaker. However, Telmo prefers to call itself a 'driving winemaker'. he lives in Madrid and drives his car to the areas where he makes wine. In a short time his wines have found a place on the international playing field. One example: in Tom Stevenson's Wine Report 2008, Telmo is included among the top 10 producers from Spain. We once again spoke extensively with Telmo Rodriguez. That is always a pleasure. If you sit down with him you always learn something or he gives food for thought. What makes this 'conscience of the Spanish wine world' so special? When Telmo completed his studies in Bordeaux and then had internships with people like Chave (Hermitage), Clape (Cornas) and Dürrbach (Trévallon) he came back to Spain. There he saw other Spaniards who had studied in France bringing French grape varieties and customs to Spain. For example, there was more and more wire guidance, while the Spanish system had always been free-standing sticks. Telmo concluded that he wanted to focus on the old qualities of Spain such as freestanding sticks, indigenous grape varieties and field blends. In addition, he was the first in Spain to introduce modern labels and he opposes the rigid Spanish wine laws.

Free standing sticks
Spain used to be a country of bush vines: the sticks were so far apart per area and per vineyard that they could each get enough water. If you place your sticks far apart with wire articulation, the stick will grow far and become much too large. With wire articulation, you therefore need many more sticks per hectare. However, the problem is that there is not enough water for this and you therefore have to irrigate, in areas that often already suffer from a shortage of water. In addition, the grapes hang more in the shade with free-standing sticks, which gives less chance of 'burning' and leads to less stewed fruit and fresher acids. The only downside to free-standing canes is that more manual work is involved in vineyard management and harvesting. Telmo works almost exclusively with bush vines.

Native grape varieties
It was clear to Telmo that there are so many good indigenous varieties in Spain that importing 'the big five' (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah) from France was not necessary at all. He was one of the first to produce good Rueda from Verdejo and Viura, he embraced Mencia and Godello in Valdeorras, Monastrell in Alicante, Moscatel in Malaga, Garnacha in Cebreros…. In the mid-1990s he was still considered crazy with this philosophy, but now everyone is following him.

Field blends
There used to be many vineyards in Spain with various grape varieties mixed together, also called 'field blends'. It is often argued against field blends that the varieties (that are picked together) are not all ripe at the same time. It speaks for the fact that diversity and disease resistance increase and that it promotes complexity. Telmo now has two vineyards with field blends in production. In Rioja he makes it Las Beatas (named after the vineyard, first vintage awarded with 97 points by Parker) and in Valdeorras Las Caborcas. Beautiful, original wines!

Spanish wine laws
Telmo was the first to remove the word Reserva from a Rioja in 1995. In his words: 'I ask my wines how long they want to stay in the wood'. One year grapes can easily handle a 12-month aging in wood, but not in another year. There was consternation about Las Beatas: the Consecho initially did not want to approve the wine made with a field blend as Rioja… while there was a time when all Rioja was made that way! Consecho did not push this to the extreme and ultimately fortunate for them, given the enormously high international appreciation.

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