2020 Puro Rofe Chibusque
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Body: medium-bodied. Fuller than most white wines from ; 12% alcohol.
Acidity: fairly high. The warm climate of .
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Log inLanzarote is paradise for wine lovers. Old autochthonous vines on lava soils, with Atlantic influences but the majority of the wine was mainly cheap tourist wines. Rayco Fernández, as a distributor based in Gran Canaria, had the same feeling. He decided to do something about it. With a number of like-minded friends, he decided to make real terroir wine on the island. And so it happened and with Puro Rofe extremely beautiful wines have now been made in an extreme landscape. The international wine press is also full of praise for the entire series, all of which score well above 90/100 points.
The Chibusque 2020, is a pure Diego or a Vijariego Blanco, coming from centenary vines planted in the zone that gives the wine its name, in the village of Tisalaya. The whole bunches were pressed in a vertical press and the juice was put in a sherry vat (formerly used for Manzanilla) to ferment and it was kept there for eight months with the lees (sur lie). The barrel is always topped up and thus does not get a flor (yeast layer as with a sherry). It has 11.8% alcohol and very good acidity and freshness. The wine is wonderfully elegant, dry and spicy and ends with a smoky note. Only 1,020 bottles of the unique Puro Rofe Chibusque 2020 have been filled. 94/100 Parker.
Character
The wine
- 100%
Origin
Bottle
Wine features
Parker
Rating
94
Release Price
$70
Drink Date
2022 - 2026
Reviewed by
Luis Gutiérrez
Issue Date
17th Feb 2022
Source
February 2022 Week 3, The Wine Advocate
The wines matured in sherry casks (botas) and have an orange label, as is the case with the 2020 Chibusque, a pure Diego, or Vijariego Blanco, from centenary vines planted in the zone that gives the wine its name, in the village of Tisalaya. This has a very different profile, more reductive and with strong aromas of curry and smoke. The whole clusters were pressed in a vertical press, and the juice was put in a sherry butt (that was used for Manzanilla before) to ferment, and it was kept there with the lees and everything, without racking, for eight months, during which time it underwent malolactic fermentation. The barrel was topped up, and there was no flor here. It has 11.8% alcohol and very good acidity and freshness; it's dry and sharp and finishes with a smoky note. 1,020 bottles were filled in June 2021.
There are changes at Puro Rofe: Carmelo Peña is no longer the winemaker, whose role has been taken over by Juan Daniel Ramírez from Titerok-Akaet, and part of the team has also changed. But they continue improving and are the benchmark for terroir-driven wines from Lanzarote. Visiting the different zones of the islands, I got a much better understanding of their wines.
2020 was a catastrophic vintage when it comes to yields in Lanzarote in particular and all the islands in general, without a drop of water between January to October. Lanzarote harvested 1.3 million kilos, less than half of the nearly three million kilos they harvested in 2019 (and four million in 2018). They usually receive almost two million tourists, and during the pandemic they didn't get any. Most of the sales are direct to consumers from the cellar door or in local stores, so it all stopped. It was a very challenging harvest, but they are still on their way up. They have moved to a larger location in the village of Femés; they have increased their vineyards in La Geria to three hectares, all traditional holes on black volcanic ash; they rent vineyards and buy grapes from different villages; and in 2020, they have two new whites. The wines have more concentration and structure, perhaps a little less acidity but still quite fresh and with the characteristic salinity. The production has grown a little; they now produce 10,000 bottles, 10,775 in 2020, to be exact.
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Voor wijnliefhebbers lijkt Lanzarote het paradijs. Oude autochtone wijnstokken op lavagronden, met Atlantische invloeden maar om volslagen onduidelijke reden wordt het het geweldige potentieel niet uitgenut en worden (of lees:werden) er vooral eenvoudige toeristenwijntjes geproduceerd. Rayco Fernández had, als distributeur gevestigd op Gran Canaria, hetzelfde gevoel. Hij besloot er iets aan te doen. Met een aantal gelijkgezinde kompanen besloot hij om échte terroirwijn te maken op het eiland. En zo geschiedde en worden hier extreem mooie wijnen gemaakt in een extreem landschap.
Lanzarote werd tijdens zijn bestaan geplaagd door veelvuldige vulkaanuitbarstingen. Deze die het eiland zijn huidige vorm hebben gegeven, waren in 1730-1736 en in 1824. Het landschap dat daarna overbleef was perfect voor wijnbouw. De wijngaarden dienden echter beschermd te worden tegen de Sahara-winden vanuit Afrika. De oplossing waren de "hoyos" of "rofes", uitgegraven holen van soms wel 1 tot 2 m diep, waarin telkens één wijnstok werd geplant. Het resultaat is indrukwekkend. Er wordt vooral met witte druiven gewerkt. Rode druiven zijn vrij zeldzaam op het eiland. De wijnen behoren tot de appelatie: D.O. Lanzarote
Deze Puro Rofe Chibusque 2020 is droog en elegant met opvallende aroma's van curry en rook, frisse zilte zuren, subtiele boterigheid door malolactische vergisting en een verfrissende scherpte rond 11,8% alcohol die de smaak strak houdt. Daardoor werkt hij uitstekend bij witte en vette vis, schelpdieren en pittige gerechten: de rokerige tonen en zoutigheid vullen gegrilde of licht geschroeide vette vis en op de graat dichtgeschroeide sardines of makreel mooi aan, de frisse zuurgraad snijdt door ceviche en sashimi en bij pittige Aziatische curries of chili-garnelettes verzacht de leesrijke textuur de hitte; probeer hem bij gegrilde zeebaars met citroen, oesters of knoflookboter-garnalen en bij ceviche met limoen en koriander voor optimale harmonie.
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