2019 Domaine Joannès Violot-Guillemard Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc

The 2019 vintage from Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard – which will in fact be released under a new label that foregrounds the involvement of Thierry's son, Joannes, in the family business – is a beautiful wine. Significant percentages of whole clusters have been deftly handled and combined with intelligent cooperage choices to deliver wines with aromatic profiles more reminiscent of the best addresses of the Côte de Nuits than any old-fashioned stereotype of burley and resolutely earthy Pommard. Perfumed, seamless and penetrating, these are a brilliant range of wines. Joannes, my near-contemporary, certainly does not lack self-confidence, but anyone who tastes his 2019 range will have to admit that it is worth it.

One of the most famous plots of the Beaune appellation, with a very small white production, hence the rarity of this wine. Since bees used to be called “Mouches à Miel”, the plot refers to the beehives formerly installed by the monks of Citeaux. The vines are very young and yield management is essential. The wines show the mineral side, with the same length as the red wines. The grapes come from 20 acres, vines have an average age of 6 years. No sulfites at harvest because of the alcoholic fermentation that takes place without the addition of yeast. Just after alcoholic fermentation, lactic acid bacteria are sown to cause malolactic fermentation. Aging in barrels for about 11 months. Bottling on site with a fine if necessary

The Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 2019 delivers scents of orange oil, citrus blossom, fresh pear and toasted bread. Medium to full, lively and textural, with an ample core of fruit and a nicely defined finish, it is already very charming.