2019 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
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Body: full-bodied. Like most white wines from ; 12.5% alcohol.
Acidity: fairly high. from the fairly cool climate of .
Aromas: stone fruit, tropical fruit and orchard fruit, typical of
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Log inDomaine Fontaine-Gagnard is one of the best producers in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. The domain has its origins in the fine Gagnard-Delagrange holdings of fifty years ago, as the vineyards come from the marriage of Richard Fontaine to Jacques Gagnard's eldest daughter, Laurence Gagnard, in 1982. The Gagnard family is very close, with much of the vineyard work and the gracious Céline Fontaine heart and soul managing the family's Chassagne-Montrachets, such as the premier crus as well as the grand crus of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Montrachet itself.
The style of the wines at Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is intense, concentrated, deep and complex. These are Chassagnes that start life as classically balanced and accessible, but always with fine expressions of terroir and underlying structure to age gracefully. The wines are generally aged in about a third of new oak for the premier crus and slightly more for the grand crus. Celine's Chassagne Blanc is one of the villages of great value, but the real fireworks begin with the premier crus. The range of Fontaine-Gagnard premier crus starts with Chassagne "Clos St. Jean", always the most progressive of the premier crus and quite popular on wine lists due to its relatively early drinkability. Chassagne also has wines with a little more structure than Clos St. Jean, and capable of aging for fifteen to twenty years in a top vintage. The two best premier crus in the line-up are "Caillerets", whose very calcareous soils typically produce the longest-lived premier cru in the estate's portfolio, and their dramatic and always fantastic "La Romanée". The estate also has a rare holding in the small vineyard of Chassagne "Grande Montagne", which is located in the heart of the band of the best Chassagne premier crus at the top of the slope, including Virondot, Grandes Ruchottes, La Romanée and Caillerets .
Among the grand crus, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard has one of the largest pieces of the smallest grand cru in the Côte de Beaune, "Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet". Clive Coates called the Fontaine-Gagnard Criots "one of the very best sources for this little grand cru." There is often a touch of exotic complexity in Criots, as it offers delicious herbal elements and an almost "salty" nuance that marries the layers of apple and pear fruit and a fine base of chalky minerality. Celine Fontaine is also an excellent example of Bâtard-Montrachet - one of the raciest and most mineral Bâtards - and a little piece of Le Montrachet itself. The red wines should not be overlooked here, as there is a robust and age-worthy Chassagne-Montrachet rouge, as well as the consistently fine Volnay "Clos des Chênes" and Pommard "Rugiens". All in all, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is one of the very best in Chassagne-Montrachet and a consistently excellent resource that we highly recommend exploring.
1er Cru Les Caillerets combines notes of citrus oil and white flowers with aromas of pear and peach. Medium to full bodied, satiny and meaty, it reveals fine depth in the core and promises chalky grip to balance the fat on the mid-palate. The vinification methods remain classic. Fermentation with native yeasts, 12 to 18 months of aging in oak barrels. Only the amount of new oak varies for the wines, namely 15-20% for the Villages, 30-40% for the Premiers Crus / Grands Crus. All year round, from pruning, they work on the vines to give them the best quality potential at harvest (plowing, regular soil analyses, annual replacement of dead vines, integrated cultivation, etc.)
FACT : The wine is stored in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you pick up the wine you will often receive a nice discount. You will immediately see the possible discount if you choose Pickup in the Checkout page. We are almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
Character
The wine
- 100%
Origin
Bottle
Wine features
Vinous
93
Drinking Window
2021 - 2035
From: La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)
The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a crisp, more understated bouquet with more earthy overtones that the domaine's other cuvées. The palate is one of the most terroir-expressive from the domaine, very well defined with a lightly spiced finish. This has a real spring in its step.
- By Neal Martin on October 2020
Cécile Gagnard is a winemaker that wears her heart on her sleeve, an increasingly rare virtue in the Côte d’Or. This is a producer that has enormous potential that will be realised when, not if. One of the major hurdles is the lack of space that precludes longer élevages that I am certain would take Fontaine-Gagnard up another level. Given their enviable holdings (minus their Pommard Rugiens as the vines were infected with leaf roll and pulled up), the mind boggles what will be achieved. Fontaine-Gagnard’s wines have improved considerably in recent vintages. “We had a warm month of March, too warm, so that buds opened early April,” Gagnard tells me in the barrel cellar. “We had frost especially on the morning of 5 April in Chassagne. It was the first time we used candles at the domaine and these protected one hectare on the best terroirs. But I was not as sad as in 2016 because at least this year we could fight back. I was surprised because the frost was predicted at 5am, but when we left our home at 2.45am, the glass on our car was already frozen. So we jumped in and arrived in Montrachet and could see Clos de la Mouchère was already lit. We lit the candles at 3am, then Bâtard and Criots, the lower part of the Cailleret where there is more clay, also La Romanée. Then we burned hay to make smoke although it was windy, so it was difficult to make a shield and it blew over Chagny. They weren’t happy at all! The day after we could see burned buds, particularly in La Boudriotte as its a cold microclimate and also in Morgeot. After that, we burned candles on 14 or 15 April, but these were not so efficient. Flowering was not great, and I have never seen as much millerandage, even in younger plots such as Clos Saint-Jean. We planned to pick around 12 September and decided to go earlier and earlier, and eventually started on 10 September. I would have preferred to start a couple of days earlier as the millerandé berries concentrated very quickly. Acidity in the whites was like in 2018. As it was so dry, the higher terroirs such as La Montagnes endured very low yields, down to 16hl/ha in La Romanée. Overall, we lost around one-third of the vintage, though fortunately the higher volumes were in the Grand Crus. I was surprised because the last plots that we picked were those with more clay that gave higher sugar levels. When I looked at the analysis, I could see how stressed the vines were. We have not produced wines with such high alcohol degrees since 2007, mostly around 14°, the highest in La Maltroye. It is a very concentrated vintage and became quite austere during the barrel ageing except Maltroye. The 2019s were all in bottle at the beginning of August. The reds have not been racked yet and they are still on the lees. They had high sugar and high acidity and so the balance is natural.” I found varying degrees of success across this wide portfolio. Some of the entry-level wines at regional and village cru level felt a little overcome by the warmth of the growing season and lacked a little tension, put into sharp relief when you tasted the excellent Les Chenevottes. To reiterate, I do think these wines will gain another layer of complexity if afforded a second winter in barrel, particularly when considering the three Grand Crus. It is a question of space, however, that is being addressed.
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De 2019 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets toont verfijnde tonen van citrusolie, witte bloemen en rijpe peer en perzik, met een satijnachtige, medium tot volle body en een krijtachtige, licht gekruide afdronk die het terroir mooi laat voelen. Dankzij die frisse zuurstructuur, de subtiele rijpheid en de minerale grip vult hij rijkere gevogeltebereidingen, vette vis en schaal- en schelpdieren aan zonder te overheersen, en snijdt hij door het vet van romige kazen; vooral gebraden kip of kwartel met een lichte botersaus, langzaam gebakken zalm of heilbot en gestoomde coquilles met een citrusachtige beurre blanc werken bijzonder goed en laten zowel wijn als gerecht opbloeien.
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