2017 Domaine de Montille Meursault Premier Cru 'Porusots' Magnum

“Porusot” is the diminutive of Porroux that appears in the name of the place called Les Porroux, a regional form meaning “stony places”, from the Latin Petrosa “stony places, rocky places”. The land of the Porusots, in Meursault, is indeed covered with considerable gravel. The 0.63 hectare vineyard is based on limestone marl and limestone gravel. It benefits from a very early harvest to maintain a certain tension. Located next to the famous “Genevrières”, it produces a wine that is somewhat exotic in nature, which is why they use few new barrels.

After a slight settling, the must is placed in barrels of mainly 600 liters and also 228 liters, where alcoholic and malolactic fermentation takes place. They use approximately 5 to 20% new barrels with wood mainly from Allier, with long and light roasting. The first maturation takes place after about a year of maturation in the forest, after which the second phase (4 to 6 months) begins in stainless steel barrels to preserve the freshness and tension in the wine. The estate has been practicing organic viticulture since 1995. Since 2005, biodynamics has complemented these practices with respect for soil and life. The 2017 vintage was characterized by a very harsh spring. Unlike last year, the cold was mainly concentrated on the plots at the bottom of the hill, with losses proven but relatively acceptable compared to the dramatic losses in 2016.

It is a great vintage, crystalline, with a beautiful aromatic complexity that combines hawthorn, white flowers and citrus fruits. The fairly early harvests (August 29) allowed them to maintain the freshness and excitement of the vintage. The texture is liquid, the mouthfeel is spacious, deep and salty. 2017 is closer to 2014 and 2007 than the latter vintages, but will be ready sooner (3 to 7 years), even though these wines will flourish over time. We find a pleasant freshness and energy, a taste that is both rich and tense, a clean, rustic and powerful aftertaste. A little patience is advised.