2017 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Jeroboam (3 liter)
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How full and heavy the wine feels in your mouth, like the difference between skimmed milk and cream. More alcohol, sugar and oak ageing make a wine fuller.
The drying, grippy feel on your gums and tongue, as with strong tea. It comes from the skins and seeds of black grapes and from oak, and softens with age.
How much sugar you taste, from dry to sweet. Fruity is not the same as sweet: a dry wine can taste of ripe fruit.
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The bars follow how sommeliers taste (WSET): body, tannin, sweetness and acidity, each from low to high.
Body: powerful. Like most red wines from Montalcino; 15% alcohol.
Tannin: tannic. From ; aged in oak.
Sweetness: dry. Red wine from is almost always dry.
Acidity: high. from the warm climate of .
Aromas: earthy notes and red fruit, typical of
Made: in , aged at least 5 years, 2 of them in oak
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Log inAzienda Agricola Canalicchio di Sopra was founded by Primo Pacenti. The estate is located in the northern part of the municipality of Montalcino. Canalicchio owns 60 hectares of land, of which 15 hectares are planted with vineyards and 2 hectares with olives. For 3 generations, wine has been produced with great passion and skill, using the latest technologies with respect for old traditions and nature. The vines are planted in two different zones in Montalcino, namely: Canalicchio di Sopra and Le Gode di Montosoli. The differences in location and soil provide different types of Sangiovese, which are carefully fused together in the cellars to create a beautiful result.
This utterly elegant Canalicchio di Sopra 2016 Brunello di Montalcino gives more with every sniff and sip, revealing notes of blueberry, licorice, bay leaf, Provencal herbs and fragrant wet soil aromas like you might smell on an autumn day. There is a hint of earthy musk that some like to call 'foxy'.
The fruit for this Brunello is a selection of clusters harvested over 10 hectares at 300 to 320 meters above sea level in two locations: Canalicchio and Montosoli. Canalicchio has clay soils for the structure of the wine and Montosoli contributes to the brightness of the aromas. Fermentation is in stainless steel and maturation lasts for 36 months in Slavonian oak barrels.
The Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino shows balance and symmetry between power and elegance. It is this that determines whether a Brunello is of high quality or just a blockbuster and heavy jammy wine. The 2017 certainly shows this. It opens with dark fruit and sour cherry but then slowly relaxes to reveal light spice, toasted nut, flowers and crushed limestone. The wine gives a real sense that the location of this vineyard is more in the northern half of the appellation where the nights are cooler and the grapes get more of a night and day difference and this improves the wine considerably. The Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino has a lovely mouthfeel, driven by balanced tannins and good acidity and this is a unique jeroboam of no less than 3 liters. Even more delicious and even longer aging potential.
Character
The wine
- 100%
Origin
Bottle
Wine features
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 96
Reviewed by:
Monica Larner
Release Price:
$169
Drink Date:
2024 - 2040
This is a relatively new addition to the Canalicchio di Sopra portfolio, and even its modern graphic label design represents a break from the rest of the line, which has more nostalgic labels that feature Montalcino's medieval main square. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia takes a little longer to open, but it ultimately reveals the elegance and energy that comes with the house style. Wild cherry, ash and balsam herb drive a long, very polished finish. The La Casaccia site is distinguished by mineral-rich clay soils, which give this wine its power and density. Production is limited to 4,133 bottles in this vintage.
Francesco Ripaccioli of Canalicchio di Sopra opted not to make his Brunello di Montalicino Riserva in 2017, citing the challenges of the vintage that was very hot and dry. Instead, fruit that would have gone toward the Riserva, like the excellent Sangiovese from his Vigna Vecchia Mercatale, went to his annata Brunello di Montalcino instead (reviewed here). He also focused on the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia, which shows very nicely in my opinion. This greater understanding of what can and cannot be accomplished in any one vintage comes from an ongoing effort to study and identify the individual growing sites throughout the property. Francesco has been working hard in this direction for the past 10 years.
Published: Feb 17, 2022
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James Suckling
Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2017
Thursday, November 4, 2021
CountryItaly
RegionTuscany
Vintage2017
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Score
94
This shows beautiful balance and drinkability, with firm and slightly chewy tannins, yet the fruit is pure and flavorful. Some bark and crushed-stone undertones. Very drinkable now, but better in 2023.
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Vinous
95
Drinking Window
2024 - 2030
From: Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wildly perfumed, dusty and exotic, with balsam herbs, savory spices, red currants and plums coming across as so pretty yet rich and potent. A silky display of sour wild berries contrasted by candied citrus wows the senses as the 2017 plays a zesty sweet-and-sour act upon the palate. It’s long, youthfully chewy, yet still remarkably fresh, with rosy florals and tart, tart cherries giving way to chiseled tannins through the finale. This is a beautiful rendition of the 2017 vintage, one that takes the dry warmth of the year and expresses it with tremendous energy and verve. What's more, I revisited this bottle over the course of 36 hours and it only got better with time.
- By Eric Guido on November 2021
The best way to understand any wine region is to get on the ground, hike the vineyards, trudge through the soils and watch as the sun rises or sets on the vines. On the day I was scheduled to taste with Francesco Ripaccioli at Canalicchio di Sopra, I trekked for roughly two miles north, down the hill from Montalcino at 5am, when we ran into each other outside of his winery. At that time he was setting up our 9am tasting that spanned from the 1979 Brunello to cask samples of each individual parcel of Sangiovese from the 2019 vintage. It’s that commitment to the job, the passion for the land and for Montalcino, the desire to delve deeply into the science, as well as the romance of wine, that sets Francesco Ripaccioli apart from many others. I returned at the official start of my appointment to find around thirty bottles of wine to go through. This was going to be an education.
It’s amazing to think of what Canalicchio di Sopra has accomplished over the years. In the hands of the current generation’s father, the wines were classic and traditional. Francesco Ripaccioli and his siblings brought the purity of fruit and transparent stamp of terroir that the wines were lacking before. Of course, they had all the right ingredients, with choice locations on both the Montosoli hill and within the Canalicchio cru to work with. Since that time, the family has studied each location to break them down into micro-terroirs within the larger parcels. Today, each plot is treated individually in the vineyards and is vinified separately. This allows the winery to design the perfect blend, year after year, to build their estate Brunello and Riserva. It’s also proven that certain parcels deserve their own individual bottling, hence the creation of Vigna La Casaccia, and in the coming years, the cru-designated Montosoli.
Francesco Ripaccioli had a much more positive view on the results of the 2017 vintage than the rumors that have circulated around over the last few years. He agrees that it was an extremely hot and dry vintage that required diligence in the vineyards. He also cited a number of smaller rain events that helped in their water-retaining soils. The more substantial rains that arrived in the beginning of September, and the cool temperatures that followed, permitted the ripening process of the grapes to balance out, and for the grapes to regain fresh acidities. After the torrid summer, this area enjoyed three weeks of ideal weather prior to Canalicchio di Sopra’s harvest. The fruit was still heavily influenced by the season, so the winery used a softer delastage and less pumping over, as well as a berry-by-berry selection and shorter maceration. While there will be no Riserva made from 2017, with its fruit having gone to the estate wine, the Brunello itself is a total success. It may not have the lifespan and mix of floral and mineral finesse that we typically associate with this part of Montalcino, but it is a seriously good wine with medium-term cellar potential that should not be missed, and the same goes for La Casaccia.
Then there’s the 2016 Riserva. At Canalicchio di Sopra, the Riserva has the same élevage as the Brunello, with 36 months in 25-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels, but is released later and has a different blend of vineyards depending on the vintage. (The logic of aging Riservas longer in barrel is starting to be looked upon as incorrect throughout much of the region.) As for the 2016 Riserva, Ripaccioli decided to do an equal parts blending of Vigna Vecchia Mercatale and the Montosoli Vigna Filari Lunghi parcel, and the results are off the charts. There was a time when the Riserva was bigger, more powerful but not necessarily better than any of the other wines.
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Deze 2017 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Jeroboam toont een krachtig en elegant Sangiovese-profiel met wilde kers, zure bosbessen, laurier en Provençaalse kruiden, ondersteund door geroosterde noten, natte aarde en stevige, fijngekalkte tannines. Die frisse zuurgraad en uitgesproken tannines maken hem perfect bij rijkere gerechten zoals langzaam gegaard rundvlees of lam, hartige stoofschotels en stevige pastagerechten of pizza's met gerijpte kaas, omdat de wijn het vet doorsnijdt en de kruidigheid complimenteert. Bereidingen met langzame garing zoals braseren of confijten, gerechten met umamirijke tomatensauzen of gegrild vlees met rozemarijn en knoflook halen het beste uit deze Brunello.
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