2013 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet

Daniel-Etienne Defaix is the owner of one of the oldest estates in Chablis. For four centuries, the Defaix family has been winemakers from father to son. The family estate is situated on the oldest terroirs of Chablis, where monks at Pontigny made a selection a thousand years ago. The privileged exposure of the monks of Pontigny was, and still is, a hill with a high southeast-facing slope. An advantage for Chablis, which often struggles with frost in the spring, this privileged spot catches the sun's rays first, resulting in far fewer harvest losses. Daniel-Etienne Defaix is the undisputed master of 'long-aged Chablis'. There is no rush, and they firmly believe that the wines must mature; this is evidenced by the fact that they only release their Premier Crus after around 8-12 years, but we have personally drunk vintages 30 years and older, and these were even more than fantastic. These long-aged Chablis from vintages can also be ordered by us upon request, and naturally, we have some of our own in our assortment. However, what makes this estate so unique is not just the fact that no wood is used during the production process. The unique fruit from the old vines of the vineyards and time do their work, turning every production into gems.

The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet has only become available in limited quantities after 12 years and will not be bottled until 2025. The soil of the old Chardonnay Premier Cru vineyard is very old and lies on very poor soils of limestone and marl with a southeast exposure. The vineyard is situated on a slope that is quite steep (38%), ensuring all vines receive the ultimate attention from the sun. As a 'Master of the Long Elevage', everything is given time at Daniel-Etienne Defaix, and this applies especially to his Premier Crus, which are often released only after an average of 8-12 years. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeast at 18°C lasts approximately 3 weeks. Afterwards, the wine ages for at least 18 months with monthly stirring of the fine lees and then remains in tanks for at least 10 years before bottling.

The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet floats from the glass with aromas of honeycomb, golden orchard fruit, apricot, spices, and dried white flowers. The richness resulting from the long aging and regular bâtonnage for no less than 18 months yields a buttery finish with ripe fruit. Medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny, it is a lively, saline wine that finishes with a delicate nutty aftertaste.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet from Daniel-Etienne Defaix is a mature, classic Chablis with richness, depth, and layered minerality. Thanks to long aging on the lees, this wine develops complex aromas of ripe citrus, honey, almond, flint, and dried flowers, with still lively acidity. The wine calls for dishes that are refined, but not overly heavy or spicy. Here are a few accessible suggestions:

1. Fried cod with lemon butter and green vegetables
The fresh acidity of the wine cuts beautifully through the buttery sauce, while the subtle minerality supports the salty character of the fish. Green vegetables such as broccoli or haricots verts add a crunchy, fresh component.

2. Tagliatelle with mushrooms, cream and fresh thyme
The earthy notes of mushrooms pair perfectly with the aged character of this Chablis. The creaminess of the sauce is balanced by the fresh acidity, and the wine's spicy finish aligns seamlessly with the use of thyme or sage.

3. Chicken supreme with lemon, garlic, and rosemary from the oven
The juicy texture of the chicken, enriched with fresh citrus notes and spicy accents, combines harmoniously with the layered aromas of this wine. The wine enhances the flavor without overpowering it.

4. Quiche with leeks and aged cheese
The savory, slightly sweet taste of leek and the salty, umami character of aged cheese (for example, mature Gouda or Comté) pair perfectly with the ripe fruit aromas and lively acidity of this Chablis.

5. Salad with grilled zucchini, avocado, and walnuts
The nutty components of the salad complement the slightly oxidative notes of this older wine beautifully, while the creamy avocado and the soft acidity in the dressing pair well with the round yet fresh structure of the wine.

6. Oysters or razor clams with a shallot and lemon vinaigrette
A classic that still works, even with an older Chablis. The minerality and tension of the wine enhance the briny freshness of the shellfish, while the aging provides an extra layer of depth.

ABOUT CHABLIS

Millions of years ago, the area around the present-day town of Chablis was covered by the sea. During the Jurassic period, the sediment-enriched clay of the Chablis region began to form, and it is this clay that gives Chablis wine its unique elegance, freshness, and complexity. Until the nineteenth century, vineyards occupied a larger area around the town of Chablis, on the Serein river, roughly halfway between Dijon and Paris. However, the region fell victim to a phylloxera epidemic that damaged most of the vineyards. Terroir in Chablis, however, did not change. Cultivated hectares decreased significantly (from about 100,000 hectares in the entire department at the end of the 19th century to 10,000 hectares in the Chablis region today), but the soil, the climate, and the expertise of the winemakers did not.

Wines from Chablis are classified as follows:

- Grand Cru , the crème de la crème. These come from vineyards north of the town of Chablis, on a steep, south-facing slope. On the Route de Tonnere, it is about a mile (less than two kilometers) from the junction with the D91 to the junction with Rue Blanchot. Here, varying in altitude from 135 to 220 meters, you will find the best vineyards of Chablis: Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenquilles, Valmur, Les Clos, and Blanchot.

- Premier Cru , excellent wines from vineyards cultivated on favorably situated slopes, scattered throughout the area. Vau Ligneau, Vau de Vey, and Côte de Léchet are narrow strips of land on steep slopes to the east-west of the village of Milly; Vosgros is a comma-shaped, west-facing vineyard on the northern part of a hill called Paradis, at an altitude of 590 to 689 feet (180 to 210 meters).

- Chablis, the designation given to good but not great wines that still benefit from the Chablis terroir. The vineyards involved are often less steep or not as well-oriented compared to the vineyards that produce higher-rated wines.

- Petit Chablis , wines that deserve the name Chablis but fall short of others from the region because they are made from grapes grown on less than ideal soil or on north-facing slopes. (The word "petit," meaning "small," is a kind of quality indicator, as if "Petit Chablis" is the little brother of larger Chablis wines.)