2012 Telmo Rodríguez Molino Real Old Mountain
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| Type of Wine | |
|---|---|
| Country | Spain |
| Region | |
| Appellation | Sierras de Málaga |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Content (Alc) | Demi (0.375 ltr) (12.5%) |
| Drink window | 2025 - 2045 |
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The 2012 Telmo Rodríguez Molino Real Old Mountain is undoubtedly one of the most exclusive sweet wines of Spain. This legendary Moscatel has been produced for only the fourth time in history and pays tribute to the historic "Mountain Wines" of Málaga, once considered the most prestigious wines of the region. Sourced from a single exceptional mountain plot with centuries-old vines, dried using the traditional asoleo method, and finally released twelve years later, this wine belongs to the absolute world elite. Wine Advocate awarded the 2012 a remarkable 98 points. Luis Gutiérrez calls the wine exceptional and praises the perfect balance between immense concentration, refinement, and impressive freshness.
Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez
Telmo Rodríguez is one of Spain's most influential winemakers. Together with Pablo Eguzkiza, he has been dedicated for decades to breathing new life into historic vineyards, forgotten terroirs, and traditional wine styles. His projects are spread throughout Spain, but one principle always remains central: the identity of the terroir must be more important than technique or fashion.
With Molino Real, Telmo Rodríguez reintroduced the famous sweet Málaga wines that were among the absolute best worldwide in the nineteenth century. The steep mountain slopes of the Axarquía are among the most spectacular wine regions in Europe and yield Moscatel grapes with unprecedented aromatic intensity and natural freshness.
For more information about Telmo Rodríguez, please refer to the Winery tab.
Old Mountain
Old Mountain is Molino Real's most exclusive wine and is produced exclusively in exceptional vintages. The 2012 is only the fourth release ever and comes from one special plot: Finca de Jacinto. This vineyard, covering only 2.4 hectares, is situated on steep south- and east-facing slopes near Cómpeta, where approximately one hundred-year-old Moscatel vines grow on poor, stony schist soils.
The combination of old vines, extremely low yields, and the rugged mountain terroir produces grapes with exceptional concentration and a pronounced mineral signature. This brings the style of the historic "Mountain Wines" of Málaga back to life.
The 2012 volume
2012 saw a dry growing season with very little rainfall and high temperatures. During August, the mercury locally rose above 43°C. Despite these extreme conditions, the harvest began relatively late, allowing the grapes to ripen optimally. Yields were low, but the quality of the fruit was exceptional. It is precisely this combination of concentration and natural freshness that forms the basis for the impressive balance of this wine.
Vinification
After the manual harvest, the grapes are dried in the sun on straw mats for several days according to the centuries-old asoleo method. Due to this natural drying, a large part of the water evaporates, causing aromas, acids, and sugars to become highly concentrated.
Fermentation starts spontaneously with the wild yeasts present and stops naturally when the high sugar content inhibits the yeasts. Subsequently, the wine ages in wood for years. For this exceptional release, the wine ultimately remained in barrels for approximately eleven years before being bottled in November 2024. During this long maturation, the wine developed unprecedented complexity and lost a significant portion of its volume through natural evaporation. Ultimately, only 1,010 half bottles were bottled.
Scent, taste and character
The wine has a deep amber color and opens with an impressive aromatic spectrum of orange marmalade, candied orange peel, dried plums, figs, and raisins. This is followed by layers of roasted almonds, walnuts, curry, cardamom, cloves, honey, spices, and subtle oxidative notes reminiscent of aged Madeira and the greatest Vin Jaune.
Despite a residual sugar of over 300 grams per liter, the wine remains remarkably refined and lively. The natural acidity and the minerality of the schist soils give the wine tension, ensuring that the sweetness never overpowers. The structure is silky, powerful, and perfectly integrated, while every sip reveals new layers of citrus, spices, dried fruit, and toasted notes.
Luis Gutiérrez of Wine Advocate calls this wine a category of its own within the Spanish wine world. He praises the exceptional balance between concentration, freshness, and precision, and emphasizes that the immense richness never becomes heavy. According to him, the origin, the Moscatel grape, and the mountain terroir remain constantly recognizable, while notes of marmalade, toasted orange peel, and exotic spices lend the wine impressive complexity.
The finish is exceptionally long and lingers for minutes. Notes of candied citrus, honey, roasted nuts, fine spices, and a mineral freshness constantly follow one another, making every sip fascinating.
Storage potential
This wine is already spectacular, yet it is still at the beginning of its development. Thanks to its enormous concentration, high natural acidity, and prolonged oak aging, it can easily continue to age for decades. With optimal storage, this wine will continue to perform exceptionally well even after 2040.
Drinking window and food and wine pairings
Serve the wine lightly chilled at approximately 10 to 12°C in a dessert glass or small white wine glass.
Superb with foie gras, blue cheeses such as Cabrales or Roquefort, desserts with orange or nuts, dark chocolate, caramelized desserts, or simply as a meditation wine after a special dinner.
Why buy the 2012 Telmo Rodríguez Molino Real Old Mountain at Grandcruwijnen?
Old Mountain is one of Spain's most exclusive sweet wines and is offered only sparingly worldwide. The combination of a historic mountain terroir, hundred-year-old Moscatel vines, traditional asoleo, over eleven years of barrel aging, and a production of just 1,010 half bottles makes this a unique wine for collectors and lovers of the world's greatest dessert wines. The impressive rating of 98 points by Wine Advocate confirms the exceptional level of this rare release.
At Grandcruwijnen, you will find a carefully selected assortment of the finest top Spanish wines. All bottles are stored under optimal conditions and can be shipped or picked up at our store in Dordrecht.
| Block Bundle Options | No |
|---|---|
| Type of Wine | Red |
| Country | Spain |
| Region | Andalucía |
| Appellation | Sierras de Málaga |
| Icons | Icon Spain & Portugal |
| Winery | Telmo Rodriguez |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Drinking as of | 2025 |
| Drinking till | 2045 |
| Alcohol % | 12.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | Demi (0.375 ltr) |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | Yes |
| Closure | Cork |
| Tasting Profiles | Complex, Donker fruit, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Zoet |
| Drink moments | Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | De 2012 Telmo Rodríguez Molino Real Old Mountain toont een diepe amberkleur en een rijk smaakpalet van gekonfijte sinaasappel, gedroogd fruit zoals vijg en rozijn, geroosterde noten, honing, exotische specerijen en een frisse minerale zuurgraad die de grote concentratie in toom houdt. Dankzij die levendige zuurgraad en de combinatie van zoetheid en rokerige, geroosterde tonen past deze wijn prachtig bij foie gras, blauwschimmelkazen, feestelijke borrelplanken en gekaramelliseerde desserts; de zuren snijden door vet en zoetheid terwijl de noten en citrus de smaken verzachten en verdiepen. Voor het beste resultaat serveer u hem licht gekoeld en combineert u met licht geroosterd of gekaramelliseerd gevogelte, blauwschimmels op kamertemperatuur en desserts met sinaasappel, noten of pure chocolade om de complexiteit van de wijn maximaal te laten spreken. |
Winemaker Telmo Rodriguez is labeled as one of the young lions of the Spanish wine industry. He studied at the University of Bordeaux and later in the Rhône with the famous August Clape. He was the winemaker of La Granja Senora De Remelluri, his father's bodega in Rioja. He left there to become what some would call a flying winemaker. However, Telmo prefers to call itself a 'driving winemaker'. he lives in Madrid and drives his car to the areas where he makes wine. In a short time his wines have found a place on the international playing field. One example: in Tom Stevenson's Wine Report 2008, Telmo is included among the top 10 producers from Spain. We once again spoke extensively with Telmo Rodriguez. That is always a pleasure. If you sit down with him you always learn something or he gives food for thought. What makes this 'conscience of the Spanish wine world' so special? When Telmo completed his studies in Bordeaux and then had internships with people like Chave (Hermitage), Clape (Cornas) and Dürrbach (Trévallon) he came back to Spain. There he saw other Spaniards who had studied in France bringing French grape varieties and customs to Spain. For example, there was more and more wire guidance, while the Spanish system had always been free-standing sticks. Telmo concluded that he wanted to focus on the old qualities of Spain such as freestanding sticks, indigenous grape varieties and field blends. In addition, he was the first in Spain to introduce modern labels and he opposes the rigid Spanish wine laws.
Free standing sticks
Spain used to be a country of bush vines: the sticks were so far apart per area and per vineyard that they could each get enough water. If you place your sticks far apart with wire articulation, the stick will grow far and become much too large. With wire articulation, you therefore need many more sticks per hectare. However, the problem is that there is not enough water for this and you therefore have to irrigate, in areas that often already suffer from a shortage of water. In addition, the grapes hang more in the shade with free-standing sticks, which gives less chance of 'burning' and leads to less stewed fruit and fresher acids. The only downside to free-standing canes is that more manual work is involved in vineyard management and harvesting. Telmo works almost exclusively with bush vines.
Native grape varieties
It was clear to Telmo that there are so many good indigenous varieties in Spain that importing 'the big five' (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah) from France was not necessary at all. He was one of the first to produce good Rueda from Verdejo and Viura, he embraced Mencia and Godello in Valdeorras, Monastrell in Alicante, Moscatel in Malaga, Garnacha in Cebreros…. In the mid-1990s he was still considered crazy with this philosophy, but now everyone is following him.
Field blends
There used to be many vineyards in Spain with various grape varieties mixed together, also called 'field blends'. It is often argued against field blends that the varieties (that are picked together) are not all ripe at the same time. It speaks for the fact that diversity and disease resistance increase and that it promotes complexity. Telmo now has two vineyards with field blends in production. In Rioja he makes it Las Beatas (named after the vineyard, first vintage awarded with 97 points by Parker) and in Valdeorras Las Caborcas. Beautiful, original wines!
Spanish wine laws
Telmo was the first to remove the word Reserva from a Rioja in 1995. In his words: 'I ask my wines how long they want to stay in the wood'. One year grapes can easily handle a 12-month aging in wood, but not in another year. There was consternation about Las Beatas: the Consecho initially did not want to approve the wine made with a field blend as Rioja… while there was a time when all Rioja was made that way! Consecho did not push this to the extreme and ultimately fortunate for them, given the enormously high international appreciation.
De 2012 Telmo Rodríguez Molino Real Old Mountain toont een diepe amberkleur en een rijk smaakpalet van gekonfijte sinaasappel, gedroogd fruit zoals vijg en rozijn, geroosterde noten, honing, exotische specerijen en een frisse minerale zuurgraad die de grote concentratie in toom houdt. Dankzij die levendige zuurgraad en de combinatie van zoetheid en rokerige, geroosterde tonen past deze wijn prachtig bij foie gras, blauwschimmelkazen, feestelijke borrelplanken en gekaramelliseerde desserts; de zuren snijden door vet en zoetheid terwijl de noten en citrus de smaken verzachten en verdiepen. Voor het beste resultaat serveer u hem licht gekoeld en combineert u met licht geroosterd of gekaramelliseerd gevogelte, blauwschimmels op kamertemperatuur en desserts met sinaasappel, noten of pure chocolade om de complexiteit van de wijn maximaal te laten spreken.
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