2020 Kistler Chardonnay Cuvée Cathleen
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
|---|---|
| Land | USA |
| Regio | |
| Appellatie | Sonoma County |
| Wijnhuis | |
| Jaar | 2020 |
| Druif | |
| Inhoud (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (14%) |
| Drink venster | 2024 - 2034 |
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Omschrijving
Kistler Vineyards is een klein familie wijnhuis in de Russian River Valley. Ze hebben zich gespecialiseerd in het produceren van Bourgogne type chardonnay en pinot noir wijnen. Het wijnhuis werd in 1978 opgericht door de Kistler familie. Ze bezitten enkele van de allerbeste wijngaarden van Napa en Sonoma, inclusief Dutton Ranch (Russian River Valley) in Western Sonoma County.
De chardonnay wijn van Kistler worden geproduceerd volgens het Franse voorbeeld. De wijnen worden volledig gegist in barriques, gebruik makend van zowel autochtone als van gekweekte gistsoorten. Na de malolactische gisting verblijven de wijnen op hun ‘lees’ (fijn bezinksel) en worden in barriques van Frans eikenhout (50% nieuw) opgevoed. Na 12-18 maanden opvoeding worden de wijnen gebotteld zonder filtratie of klaring.
De Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen wordt gebotteld sinds 1998. Uitsluitend gemaakt van fruit van één specifiek blok in de Kistler Vineyard, het enige deel van de wijngaard met rode vulcanische schist bodem en naar de middagzon kijkt in plaats van naar de ochtend. Sinds de aanplant in 1989 viel het blok op en vroeg het duidelijk om een aparte botteling. De Cuvée Cathleen produceert jaarlijks een van de meest klassieke, complexe en complete chardonnays.
De Chardonnay Cuvée Cathleen 2020 biedt uitzonderlijk gedefinieerde, gelaagde aroma's: abrikoos en perzik worden aangevuld met tonen van gedroogde seringen en kruiden, honingraat, amandelen, mandarijn, taartkruiden Het medium-bodied gehemelte is satijnachtig en naadloos, met geconcentreerd, perzikachtig fruit, pittige zuren en een enorm lange afdronk aangedreven door een aantrekkelijk vleugje fenolische textuur. Het is een zeldzame combinatie van fruitdichtheid op een elegante, harmonieuze structuur.
Deze krachtige wijn met rijpe aroma’s vraagt om soortgelijke gerechten: in boter gebakken zeetong met amandelen, Bresse kip met truffel en ganzenlever, rosé gebakken kalfsniertjes met ‘moutarde à l’ancienne’ roomsaus, tarbot of griet met een romige boter/witte wijn saus, zeeduivelhammetje met beurre blanc, zeekreeft met vanilleboter.
Specificaties
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
|---|---|
| Land | USA |
| Regio | Californie |
| Appellatie | Sonoma County |
| Wijnhuis | Kistler Vineyards |
| Druif | Chardonnay |
| Biologisch gecertificeerd | Nee |
| Natural wijn | Nee |
| Vegan | Nee |
| Jaar | 2020 |
| Drinken vanaf | 2024 |
| Drinken tot | 2034 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcoholvrij/arm | Nee |
| Inhoud | 0.75 ltr |
| Houtrijping | Ja |
| Bubbels | Nee |
| Dessert wijn | Nee |
| Afsluiting | Kurk |
| Parker rating | 98 |
| James Suckling rating | 98 |
| Smaakprofiel | Complex, Droog, Houtgerijpt, Krachtig, Rijk, Rond, Vol, Wit fruit |
| Drink momenten | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Open haard |
Professionele Recensies
Parker
The 2020 Chardonnay Cuvée Cathleen offers exceptionally defined, layered aromas: apricot and peach are complemented by tones of dried lilacs and herbs, honeycomb, almonds, tangerine, pie spices and flinty streaks. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and seamless, with concentrated, peachy fruit, tangy acidity and a tremendously long finish driven by an appealing touch of phenolic texture. It's a rare combination of fruit density carried on an elegant, harmonious structure.
In the spring of 2022, I visited Kistler to taste the 2020s, which were bottled just after Thanksgiving in November of 2021. Annual production is usually around 35,000 cases; in 2020, only 25,000 cases were made. Some cuvées will result in just 500-1,000 cases, winemaker Jason Kesner said. “We were two days away from being able to make Cuvée Natalie, so we got in by the skin of our teeth.” The 2020s will be released in the fall of 2022 and the spring of 2023. He recapped the challenging vintage. “Our country was tearing apart at the seams," he remembered. “It was heartbreaking and emotionally draining. And then to be struck by lightning—we saw lightning bolts hitting the ground the day we were supposed to start picking. Out of pressure comes diamonds.” So far, the wines are showing wonderfully, marrying concentrated, ripe fruit, satiny textures and tangy acidity. “It was an early start to the year,” Kesner said of the 2020 growing season. “There was very inclement weather during bloom, then it got warm and dry. It was a light crop—in some vineyards, the yields were half of normal or even less, so ripening moved quickly. Evenings were cool, so there was great acid retention across the board. The wines are the most compact, dense and tightly wound that I ever recall tasting at Kistler, and that is due to super-low yields.” The fires came on the precipice of harvest. “We were literally due to start with Laguna Pinot Noir the night of the lightning storms,” Kesner said. “I called off the pick because I didn’t want anyone to get electrocuted. We were awoken by thunder and lightning at my house in west Sonoma County, and we saw a bolt strike a fir tree about 400 yards from our house.” The Walbridge fire sparked north of Kistler but took a few days to start dropping smoke onto the vineyards. “Once it started smoking, it was being driven by a northwest wind off the Pacific,” he continued. “Smoke went up and then inland but eventually started to creep closer to us. After six or seven days it started to drop, and we started seeing smoke and ash. We picked Laguna the night after the fires started and pulled the trigger on everything else. We picked Hudson, Trenton, then McCrea and kept right on picking. We condensed the harvest from our normal 10 days to seven days.” Despite the speed of harvest, some of the grapes that go into the Sonoma Coast bottlings were lost. Kesner says those vineyards tend to ripen a bit later, and the grapes just weren’t ready. “I saw that the likelihood we would use the fruit was nil. I don’t want to treat anything except with sulfur additions—the prospect of treating wine is completely foreign to me, and there are certain winemaking processes I don’t want to learn about,” he quipped. “So, we fermented the wine in barrel, sold it and destroyed the barrels. The financial impact was significant, but that was the cost of doing business in 2020.” Chardonnay was also harvested quickly, and on the early side for Kistler, Kesner said, adding that “with the early start and low crops, everything was ready to pick. Natalie was picked about two days before we would have normally picked it. It’s fascinating because I learned something—maybe moving forward, we pick a day earlier.” In the cellar, Pinot Noir grapes were 100% destemmed, no press wine was used and the wines were not pumped over. Around 38% new oak was used for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. “Despite the chaos, the numbers were as close to perfection as you could get,” Kesner said wistfully. “It was uncanny. The 2020s are so dense and concentrated, it’s almost like they have been reduced down to their primal essence because many of these vineyards produced half of what they normally would.” The 2020 Chardonnays even have a noticeably concentrated, vibrant golden color. I asked Kesner how the 2020 vintage may have changed his view of agriculture in California. “Having grown up here since I was about 10, late fall has always been fire season,” he explained. “Thankfully, we have started pulling the trigger on the earlier side in general as we increase our focus on natural acidity and pH.” Kistler recently began planting a new nine-acre vineyard two ridges in from the Pacific Ocean in the town of Freestone. “It’s an obvious place for Pinot Noir, but we are planting Chardonnay there instead. Pinot Noir has a shorter window of ripeness, and I don’t want any late-season Pinot Noir. It’s just too risky.” Kistler is also forming a fire brigade to protect its structures in the future. “It’s part of our reality now,” Kesner notes matter-of-factly. “We are in a mega-drought. We have to lean into it.” Kesner, his vineyard manager, assistant winemaker and equipment manager will be taking a 100-hour course and physical tests to become class one firefighters. “I’ll have my firefighting card, and if winemaking doesn’t work out, maybe I can get a job at Calfire," Kesner said cynically—or maybe with hope for the future.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
James Suckling
KISTLER CHARDONNAY SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA VALLEY KISTLER VINEYARD CUVÉE CATHLEEN 2020
Tuesday, August 9, 2022
CountryUnited States
RegionCalifornia
Vintage2020
CHECK PRICE
DOWNLOAD SHELFTALKER
Score
98
Delicate yet really complex nose of orange peel, brioche, crushed sage and baked pear. Full-bodied, but soft in approach. So much going on. Powdery tannins are soaked in toasted citrus, hazelnuts, chalk and herbs. There’s a lot to unpack here. Layered and long. It’s tasting beautifully now, but this really needs time to show its true potential. Best after 2025.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Exclusieve Inhoud
Log in om professionele wijnrecensies van wereldberoemde critici te ontgrendelen
Wijnhuis
Kistler Vineyards is een klein familie wijnhuis in de Russian River Valley. Ze hebben zich gespecialiseerd in het produceren van Bourgogne type Chardonnay en Pinot Noir. Het wijnhuis werd in 1978 opgericht door de Kistler familie. Ze bezitten enkele van de allerbeste wijngaarden van Napa en Sonoma, inclusief Dutton Ranch (Russian River Valley) in Western Sonoma County. De wijnmakerij werd in 1978 opgericht door Steve Kistler en Mark Bixler. Kistler Vineyards heeft een reputatie opgebouwd vanwege zijn toewijding aan het maken van wijnen die het unieke terroir tot uitdrukking brengen van de verschillende wijngaarden waar ze vandaan komen.
Productie van Kistler
Kistler staat vooral bekend om zijn Chardonnay en Pinot Noirs, die consequent hoge scores en lovende kritieken krijgen. De wijnmakerij produceert een reeks Chardonnays en Pinot Noirs uit één wijngaard, vaak genoemd naar de wijngaard waar de druiven vandaan komen. Enkele van de bekende wijngaarden waarmee Kistler samenwerkt, zijn Dutton Ranch, Hudson Vineyard en Cuvee Cathleen. Kistler volgt een filosofie van wijnmaken met minimale interventie, met als doel de natuurlijke kwaliteiten van de druiven en de wijngaard tot uiting te laten komen in de wijnen. Ze gebruiken traditionele wijnbereidingstechnieken en fermenteren hun wijnen vaak met inheemse gisten. De wijnen van Kistler worden in relatief kleine hoeveelheden geproduceerd, waardoor ze zeer gewild zijn bij verzamelaars en wijnliefhebbers. De beperkte productie draagt bij aan hun exclusiviteit. De afgelopen jaren is de wijnmakerij in sommige van zijn wijngaarden overgegaan op het gebruik van biodynamische landbouwmethoden. Deze holistische benadering van de landbouw is gericht op het verbeteren van de gezondheid en vitaliteit van de wijngaarden en de druiven.
Kistler Vineyards is een klein familie wijnhuis in de Russian River Valley. Ze hebben zich gespecialiseerd in het produceren van Bourgogne type chardonnay en pinot noir wijnen. Het wijnhuis werd in 1978 opgericht door de Kistler familie. Ze bezitten enkele van de allerbeste wijngaarden van Napa en Sonoma, inclusief Dutton Ranch (Russian River Valley) in Western Sonoma County.
De chardonnay wijn van Kistler worden geproduceerd volgens het Franse voorbeeld. De wijnen worden volledig gegist in barriques, gebruik makend van zowel autochtone als van gekweekte gistsoorten. Na de malolactische gisting verblijven de wijnen op hun ‘lees’ (fijn bezinksel) en worden in barriques van Frans eikenhout (50% nieuw) opgevoed. Na 12-18 maanden opvoeding worden de wijnen gebotteld zonder filtratie of klaring.
De Kistler Vineyard Cuvée Cathleen wordt gebotteld sinds 1998. Uitsluitend gemaakt van fruit van één specifiek blok in de Kistler Vineyard, het enige deel van de wijngaard met rode vulcanische schist bodem en naar de middagzon kijkt in plaats van naar de ochtend. Sinds de aanplant in 1989 viel het blok op en vroeg het duidelijk om een aparte botteling. De Cuvée Cathleen produceert jaarlijks een van de meest klassieke, complexe en complete chardonnays.
De Chardonnay Cuvée Cathleen 2020 biedt uitzonderlijk gedefinieerde, gelaagde aroma's: abrikoos en perzik worden aangevuld met tonen van gedroogde seringen en kruiden, honingraat, amandelen, mandarijn, taartkruiden Het medium-bodied gehemelte is satijnachtig en naadloos, met geconcentreerd, perzikachtig fruit, pittige zuren en een enorm lange afdronk aangedreven door een aantrekkelijk vleugje fenolische textuur. Het is een zeldzame combinatie van fruitdichtheid op een elegante, harmonieuze structuur.
Deze krachtige wijn met rijpe aroma’s vraagt om soortgelijke gerechten: in boter gebakken zeetong met amandelen, Bresse kip met truffel en ganzenlever, rosé gebakken kalfsniertjes met ‘moutarde à l’ancienne’ roomsaus, tarbot of griet met een romige boter/witte wijn saus, zeeduivelhammetje met beurre blanc, zeekreeft met vanilleboter.
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
|---|---|
| Land | USA |
| Regio | Californie |
| Appellatie | Sonoma County |
| Wijnhuis | Kistler Vineyards |
| Druif | Chardonnay |
| Biologisch gecertificeerd | Nee |
| Natural wijn | Nee |
| Vegan | Nee |
| Jaar | 2020 |
| Drinken vanaf | 2024 |
| Drinken tot | 2034 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcoholvrij/arm | Nee |
| Inhoud | 0.75 ltr |
| Houtrijping | Ja |
| Bubbels | Nee |
| Dessert wijn | Nee |
| Afsluiting | Kurk |
| Parker rating | 98 |
| James Suckling rating | 98 |
| Smaakprofiel | Complex, Droog, Houtgerijpt, Krachtig, Rijk, Rond, Vol, Wit fruit |
| Drink momenten | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Open haard |
Parker
The 2020 Chardonnay Cuvée Cathleen offers exceptionally defined, layered aromas: apricot and peach are complemented by tones of dried lilacs and herbs, honeycomb, almonds, tangerine, pie spices and flinty streaks. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and seamless, with concentrated, peachy fruit, tangy acidity and a tremendously long finish driven by an appealing touch of phenolic texture. It's a rare combination of fruit density carried on an elegant, harmonious structure.
In the spring of 2022, I visited Kistler to taste the 2020s, which were bottled just after Thanksgiving in November of 2021. Annual production is usually around 35,000 cases; in 2020, only 25,000 cases were made. Some cuvées will result in just 500-1,000 cases, winemaker Jason Kesner said. “We were two days away from being able to make Cuvée Natalie, so we got in by the skin of our teeth.” The 2020s will be released in the fall of 2022 and the spring of 2023. He recapped the challenging vintage. “Our country was tearing apart at the seams," he remembered. “It was heartbreaking and emotionally draining. And then to be struck by lightning—we saw lightning bolts hitting the ground the day we were supposed to start picking. Out of pressure comes diamonds.” So far, the wines are showing wonderfully, marrying concentrated, ripe fruit, satiny textures and tangy acidity. “It was an early start to the year,” Kesner said of the 2020 growing season. “There was very inclement weather during bloom, then it got warm and dry. It was a light crop—in some vineyards, the yields were half of normal or even less, so ripening moved quickly. Evenings were cool, so there was great acid retention across the board. The wines are the most compact, dense and tightly wound that I ever recall tasting at Kistler, and that is due to super-low yields.” The fires came on the precipice of harvest. “We were literally due to start with Laguna Pinot Noir the night of the lightning storms,” Kesner said. “I called off the pick because I didn’t want anyone to get electrocuted. We were awoken by thunder and lightning at my house in west Sonoma County, and we saw a bolt strike a fir tree about 400 yards from our house.” The Walbridge fire sparked north of Kistler but took a few days to start dropping smoke onto the vineyards. “Once it started smoking, it was being driven by a northwest wind off the Pacific,” he continued. “Smoke went up and then inland but eventually started to creep closer to us. After six or seven days it started to drop, and we started seeing smoke and ash. We picked Laguna the night after the fires started and pulled the trigger on everything else. We picked Hudson, Trenton, then McCrea and kept right on picking. We condensed the harvest from our normal 10 days to seven days.” Despite the speed of harvest, some of the grapes that go into the Sonoma Coast bottlings were lost. Kesner says those vineyards tend to ripen a bit later, and the grapes just weren’t ready. “I saw that the likelihood we would use the fruit was nil. I don’t want to treat anything except with sulfur additions—the prospect of treating wine is completely foreign to me, and there are certain winemaking processes I don’t want to learn about,” he quipped. “So, we fermented the wine in barrel, sold it and destroyed the barrels. The financial impact was significant, but that was the cost of doing business in 2020.” Chardonnay was also harvested quickly, and on the early side for Kistler, Kesner said, adding that “with the early start and low crops, everything was ready to pick. Natalie was picked about two days before we would have normally picked it. It’s fascinating because I learned something—maybe moving forward, we pick a day earlier.” In the cellar, Pinot Noir grapes were 100% destemmed, no press wine was used and the wines were not pumped over. Around 38% new oak was used for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. “Despite the chaos, the numbers were as close to perfection as you could get,” Kesner said wistfully. “It was uncanny. The 2020s are so dense and concentrated, it’s almost like they have been reduced down to their primal essence because many of these vineyards produced half of what they normally would.” The 2020 Chardonnays even have a noticeably concentrated, vibrant golden color. I asked Kesner how the 2020 vintage may have changed his view of agriculture in California. “Having grown up here since I was about 10, late fall has always been fire season,” he explained. “Thankfully, we have started pulling the trigger on the earlier side in general as we increase our focus on natural acidity and pH.” Kistler recently began planting a new nine-acre vineyard two ridges in from the Pacific Ocean in the town of Freestone. “It’s an obvious place for Pinot Noir, but we are planting Chardonnay there instead. Pinot Noir has a shorter window of ripeness, and I don’t want any late-season Pinot Noir. It’s just too risky.” Kistler is also forming a fire brigade to protect its structures in the future. “It’s part of our reality now,” Kesner notes matter-of-factly. “We are in a mega-drought. We have to lean into it.” Kesner, his vineyard manager, assistant winemaker and equipment manager will be taking a 100-hour course and physical tests to become class one firefighters. “I’ll have my firefighting card, and if winemaking doesn’t work out, maybe I can get a job at Calfire," Kesner said cynically—or maybe with hope for the future.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
James Suckling
KISTLER CHARDONNAY SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA VALLEY KISTLER VINEYARD CUVÉE CATHLEEN 2020
Tuesday, August 9, 2022
CountryUnited States
RegionCalifornia
Vintage2020
CHECK PRICE
DOWNLOAD SHELFTALKER
Score
98
Delicate yet really complex nose of orange peel, brioche, crushed sage and baked pear. Full-bodied, but soft in approach. So much going on. Powdery tannins are soaked in toasted citrus, hazelnuts, chalk and herbs. There’s a lot to unpack here. Layered and long. It’s tasting beautifully now, but this really needs time to show its true potential. Best after 2025.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Exclusieve Inhoud
Log in om professionele wijnrecensies van wereldberoemde critici te ontgrendelen
Kistler Vineyards is een klein familie wijnhuis in de Russian River Valley. Ze hebben zich gespecialiseerd in het produceren van Bourgogne type Chardonnay en Pinot Noir. Het wijnhuis werd in 1978 opgericht door de Kistler familie. Ze bezitten enkele van de allerbeste wijngaarden van Napa en Sonoma, inclusief Dutton Ranch (Russian River Valley) in Western Sonoma County. De wijnmakerij werd in 1978 opgericht door Steve Kistler en Mark Bixler. Kistler Vineyards heeft een reputatie opgebouwd vanwege zijn toewijding aan het maken van wijnen die het unieke terroir tot uitdrukking brengen van de verschillende wijngaarden waar ze vandaan komen.
Productie van Kistler
Kistler staat vooral bekend om zijn Chardonnay en Pinot Noirs, die consequent hoge scores en lovende kritieken krijgen. De wijnmakerij produceert een reeks Chardonnays en Pinot Noirs uit één wijngaard, vaak genoemd naar de wijngaard waar de druiven vandaan komen. Enkele van de bekende wijngaarden waarmee Kistler samenwerkt, zijn Dutton Ranch, Hudson Vineyard en Cuvee Cathleen. Kistler volgt een filosofie van wijnmaken met minimale interventie, met als doel de natuurlijke kwaliteiten van de druiven en de wijngaard tot uiting te laten komen in de wijnen. Ze gebruiken traditionele wijnbereidingstechnieken en fermenteren hun wijnen vaak met inheemse gisten. De wijnen van Kistler worden in relatief kleine hoeveelheden geproduceerd, waardoor ze zeer gewild zijn bij verzamelaars en wijnliefhebbers. De beperkte productie draagt bij aan hun exclusiviteit. De afgelopen jaren is de wijnmakerij in sommige van zijn wijngaarden overgegaan op het gebruik van biodynamische landbouwmethoden. Deze holistische benadering van de landbouw is gericht op het verbeteren van de gezondheid en vitaliteit van de wijngaarden en de druiven.