2023 Telmo Rodriguez La Estrada
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| Type of Wine | |
|---|---|
| Country | Spain |
| Region | |
| Appellation | Rioja Alta |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Grape | , |
| Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (14%) |
| Drink window | 2026 - 2042 |
| Available as of | Jun 10, 2026 |
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The 2023 Telmo Rodriguez La Estrada is one of the most refined and terroir-driven wines of Rioja Alavesa. Sourced from a tiny vineyard of just 0.64 hectares, this wine demonstrates how an exceptional location can produce an expression entirely its own. Combining the elegance of high-altitude Tempranillo with the tension of chalky soils, La Estrada is one of Telmo Rodríguez's most exclusive single-vineyard wines.
A historic vineyard above Lanciego
La Estrada Alta is located on the far western side of the village of Lanciego in Rioja Alavesa. The vineyard is situated at an altitude of 610 meters, making it one of the higher-lying plots in the region. At only 0.64 hectares, it is one of the smallest vineyards within Bodega Lanzaga's portfolio.
The vines date back to the 1940s and are traditionally planted as bush vines. Many of the vines were grafted directly into the vineyard using historical local methods. The planting consists primarily of Tempranillo, supplemented by a small proportion of Graciano.
For years, La Estrada has been considered one of Telmo Rodríguez's favorite vineyards. Not because of its size, but because of the remarkable purity, depth, and balance that this location manages to produce year after year.
Lime-rich soils and a cool location
The vineyard has a northeast exposure and is situated atop a slope of pure calcareous clay. This combination of altitude, exposure, and soil ensures slow ripening of the grapes and helps preserve freshness and aromatic precision.
The poor soils naturally limit yields, causing the vines to concentrate their energy on a small quantity of grapes. The result is a wine with great depth and terroir expression without excessive power.
Like all of Telmo Rodríguez's top vineyards, La Estrada is cultivated organically with a strong focus on biodiversity and the preservation of the historic landscape.
Volume 2023
2023 saw a warm and dry growing season with early budburst and slow ripening. The rainfall in June ensured significant water reserves in the soil and stimulated the vegetative development of the vines.
The August heatwaves subsequently posed a significant challenge. However, thanks to the vineyard's high altitude, ripening proceeded in a controlled manner and sufficient freshness was retained. The grapes did not reach their optimal phenolic ripeness until October 6, considerably later than many other plots in the region.
This slow maturation contributes to the finesse and complexity that are so characteristic of La Estrada.
Scent, taste and style
La Estrada 2023 presents itself with a strikingly pure and refined aromatic expression. Aromas of red cherries, raspberries, and wild berries are complemented by floral notes, Mediterranean herbs, and subtle earthy nuances.
On the palate, the wine displays an impressive combination of concentration and elegance. The Tempranillo provides a core of ripe fruit and refined structure, while the Graciano adds extra tension and aromatic complexity.
The calcareous soils impart a distinct minerality to the wine and an almost chalky precision. The tannins are fine and refined, while the fresh acidity provides energy and length. The style is Burgundian rather than powerful, with an emphasis on balance, detail, and terroir expression.
The finish is long, layered, and particularly refined, where fruit, spices, and minerality come together harmoniously.
La Estrada is one of the most exclusive terroir wines of Rioja. The combination of a tiny historic vineyard, old bush vines, calcareous soils, and the vision of Telmo Rodríguez results in a wine that showcases the pure essence of Rioja Alavesa.
With only 1,954 bottles produced, availability is very limited. For lovers of terroir-driven Rioja and refined single-vineyard wines, La Estrada is among the most interesting wines of Spain.
At Grandcruwijnen, you buy exclusive top Spanish wines directly from specialized importers. All wines are stored under optimal conditions and shipped with care, or can be picked up at our store in Dordrecht.
| Available as of | Jun 10, 2026 |
|---|---|
| Packing information | Box |
| Type of Wine | Red |
| Country | Spain |
| Region | Rioja |
| Appellation | Rioja Alta |
| Icons | Icon Spain & Portugal |
| Winery | Telmo Rodriguez |
| Grape | Graciano, Tempranillo |
| Biological certified | Yes |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Drinking as of | 2026 |
| Drinking till | 2042 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 95 |
| James Suckling rating | 96 |
| Vinous rating | 96 |
| Tasting Profiles | Aards, Aromatisch, Bloemig, Complex, Donker fruit, Droog, Krachtig, Mineraal, Rood fruit, Tannines |
| Drink moments | Barbecue, Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden, Open haard |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Deze La Estrada toont rijpe kersen en zwarte bes, kruidige en bloemige tonen van Graciano, verfijnde toast van 15 maanden foudre-opvoeding en een frisse mineraliteit en stevige, maar elegante tannines door de kalkrijke kleibodem. Daardoor vormt hij een uitstekende begeleider van rundvlees en langzaam gegaard lam, waarbij gegrild of langzaam geroosterd vlees (bijvoorbeeld côte de boeuf of lamsschouder) de geroosterde hout- en fruittonen extra naar voren brengt, en hij evenwichtig contrasteert met zoutige charcuterie en gerijpte kazen zoals Manchego of oude cheddar. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 94+
Reviewed by:
Luis Gutiérrez
Release Price:
$130
Drink Date:
2025 - 2032
The single-vineyard 2020 La Estrada was produced with the field blend of grapes from a northeast-facing, 0.64-hectare plot planted in the 1940s. It's one of the highest vineyards in the village of Lanciego at 610 meters above sea level, and grapes were harvested the 15th of October. The wine is floral and ripe, with present tannins that make it hard right now. It has moderate alcohol, 14%, but there is a sensation of higher ripeness. This is almost 100% Tempranillo (but there's some Garnacha and Graciano too), so this has earthier and more austere tannins that should get polished with more time in bottle. With time in the glass, it developed a beautiful note of dried roses. 2,037 bottles were filled in April 2022.
I tasted the wines from Rioja from Telmo Rodríguez as part of the whole portfolio tasting a few months ago, and the notes were published in a specific article. But now that I have tasted most of the rest of the relevant wines from the region, I thought it would make sense to include those notes again here, for completeness of this article and context for the rest of the wines.
2020 was a challenging year, with mildew in Rioja, but they were lucky to escape the hail that didn't hit Lanciego but affected the vineyards in Labastida (Tabuérniga and Beatas were affected). The harvest was earlier than in 2019, but they still started the sixth of October with the terraces of Tabuérniga. Pablo Eguzkiza told me it was a strange year for Tempranillo, with Graciano ripening earlier than Tempranillo.
Telmo Rodríguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza keep working in different regions, although still quite focused in Galicia, reducing the volumes for entry-level wines and going for more serious wines, moving away from generic varietal bottlings and going more for site-designated wines. I tasted the fine wine portfolio that has just been released, different vintages depending on the place, looking at the very small details of each.
2022 was a very warm year, and the wines from Rueda were saved by some rain in mid-September that slowed the ripening and achieved fresh wines. In Valdeorras, they have discontinued the Gaba do Xil red and replaced the white with a single-vineyard bottling from the O Barreiro lieu-dit, also reducing volumes. Here, they are releasing mostly 2020s, except for the younger white from 2022. They are both warm years with an early harvest that resulted in ripe wines, with the complication of lots of fungal diseases in 2020 that decimated the crop. In Galicia, the organic certification is complex when you have neighbors, so they are still in a transition moment.
In Rioja, the current vintage is also (mostly) 2020, a challenging year with mildew, but they were lucky to escape the hail that didn't hit Lanciego but affected the vineyards in Labastida (Tabuérniga and Beatas were affected). The harvest was earlier than in 2019, but they still started the sixth of October with the terraces of Tabuérniga. Pablo Eguzkiza told me it was a strange year for Tempranillo, when Graciano ripened earlier than Tempranillo.
Published: Feb 29, 2024
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James Suckling
BODEGA LANZAGA RIOJA LA ESTRADA 2020
Monday, October 9, 2023
CountrySpain
RegionLa Rioja
Vintage2020
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DOWNLOAD SHELFTALKER
Score
96
Spicy, peppery punch here with lifted, ground black pepper to the red and blue berries. Really precise, with some stones and dried herbs. Tangy and flavorful on the palate with very firm, fresh tannins that melt away in the long, flavorful finish. Drink or hold.
Zekun Shuai
Senior Editor
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Vinous
96
Drinking Window
2024 - 2040
From: The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths (Apr 2024)
The 2020 La Estrada is a blend of Tempranillo and Graciano, sourced from a 1940 vineyard planted in Lanciego, Rioja Alavesa. Aged in French foudres, this garnet-hued, nuanced red wine presents notes of blackberry and cherry, complemented by balsamic, wild herbs and white pepper. Light, delicate and chalky on the palate, the nimble and compact flow lingers with a juicy and calibrated acidity, adding a nervous touch. A Rioja with a Burgundian focus, La Estrada offers an intense and vivid flavor experience.
- By Joaquín Hidalgo on December 2023
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Winemaker Telmo Rodriguez is labeled as one of the young lions of the Spanish wine industry. He studied at the University of Bordeaux and later in the Rhône with the famous August Clape. He was the winemaker of La Granja Senora De Remelluri, his father's bodega in Rioja. He left there to become what some would call a flying winemaker. However, Telmo prefers to call itself a 'driving winemaker'. he lives in Madrid and drives his car to the areas where he makes wine. In a short time his wines have found a place on the international playing field. One example: in Tom Stevenson's Wine Report 2008, Telmo is included among the top 10 producers from Spain. We once again spoke extensively with Telmo Rodriguez. That is always a pleasure. If you sit down with him you always learn something or he gives food for thought. What makes this 'conscience of the Spanish wine world' so special? When Telmo completed his studies in Bordeaux and then had internships with people like Chave (Hermitage), Clape (Cornas) and Dürrbach (Trévallon) he came back to Spain. There he saw other Spaniards who had studied in France bringing French grape varieties and customs to Spain. For example, there was more and more wire guidance, while the Spanish system had always been free-standing sticks. Telmo concluded that he wanted to focus on the old qualities of Spain such as freestanding sticks, indigenous grape varieties and field blends. In addition, he was the first in Spain to introduce modern labels and he opposes the rigid Spanish wine laws.
Free standing sticks
Spain used to be a country of bush vines: the sticks were so far apart per area and per vineyard that they could each get enough water. If you place your sticks far apart with wire articulation, the stick will grow far and become much too large. With wire articulation, you therefore need many more sticks per hectare. However, the problem is that there is not enough water for this and you therefore have to irrigate, in areas that often already suffer from a shortage of water. In addition, the grapes hang more in the shade with free-standing sticks, which gives less chance of 'burning' and leads to less stewed fruit and fresher acids. The only downside to free-standing canes is that more manual work is involved in vineyard management and harvesting. Telmo works almost exclusively with bush vines.
Native grape varieties
It was clear to Telmo that there are so many good indigenous varieties in Spain that importing 'the big five' (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah) from France was not necessary at all. He was one of the first to produce good Rueda from Verdejo and Viura, he embraced Mencia and Godello in Valdeorras, Monastrell in Alicante, Moscatel in Malaga, Garnacha in Cebreros…. In the mid-1990s he was still considered crazy with this philosophy, but now everyone is following him.
Field blends
There used to be many vineyards in Spain with various grape varieties mixed together, also called 'field blends'. It is often argued against field blends that the varieties (that are picked together) are not all ripe at the same time. It speaks for the fact that diversity and disease resistance increase and that it promotes complexity. Telmo now has two vineyards with field blends in production. In Rioja he makes it Las Beatas (named after the vineyard, first vintage awarded with 97 points by Parker) and in Valdeorras Las Caborcas. Beautiful, original wines!
Spanish wine laws
Telmo was the first to remove the word Reserva from a Rioja in 1995. In his words: 'I ask my wines how long they want to stay in the wood'. One year grapes can easily handle a 12-month aging in wood, but not in another year. There was consternation about Las Beatas: the Consecho initially did not want to approve the wine made with a field blend as Rioja… while there was a time when all Rioja was made that way! Consecho did not push this to the extreme and ultimately fortunate for them, given the enormously high international appreciation.
Deze La Estrada toont rijpe kersen en zwarte bes, kruidige en bloemige tonen van Graciano, verfijnde toast van 15 maanden foudre-opvoeding en een frisse mineraliteit en stevige, maar elegante tannines door de kalkrijke kleibodem. Daardoor vormt hij een uitstekende begeleider van rundvlees en langzaam gegaard lam, waarbij gegrild of langzaam geroosterd vlees (bijvoorbeeld côte de boeuf of lamsschouder) de geroosterde hout- en fruittonen extra naar voren brengt, en hij evenwichtig contrasteert met zoutige charcuterie en gerijpte kazen zoals Manchego of oude cheddar.
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