2023 Telmo Rodriguez Falcoeira A Capilla
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| Type of Wine | |
|---|---|
| Country | Spain |
| Region | |
| Appellation | Valdeorras (Appellation) |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (12.5%) |
| Drink window | 2026 - 2034 |
| Available as of | Jun 10, 2026 |
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The 2023 Telmo Rodriguez Falcoeira A Capilla is one of Spain's most ambitious and exceptional red wines. This wine comes from an exceptional vineyard in Valdeorras that has been considered by local winemakers for generations to be the region's best location. Falcoeira A Capilla is the result of years of restoration work on a historic vineyard featuring nearly a hundred abandoned terraces overlooking the Bibei River. It is a wine that impressively combines power, elegance, and terroir expression.
A rediscovered grand cru from Valdeorras
When Telmo Rodríguez and his team settled in Valdeorras, they asked local winemakers which vineyard was considered the best in the region. The answer was almost always the same: Falcoeira. This spectacular south-facing slope above the Bibei River was historically regarded as the most prestigious vineyard of Santa Cruz.
Upon arrival, however, it turned out that the vineyard was largely abandoned. Over many years, the historic terraces, stone walls, and old plots were carefully restored. Nearly a hundred terraces had to be cleared, reconstructed, and replanted. The result is one of the most impressive restoration projects in the Spanish wine world.
Falcoeira A Capilla represents the flagship of this project today and demonstrates why this location is considered by many to be the grand cru of Valdeorras.
Ladeiras do Bibei and the power of granite
The vineyard is located in the Ladeiras do Bibei subregion, near the village of Santa Cruz. The steep terraces are situated at altitudes between 400 and 600 meters above sea level and overlook the Bibei River. The southern exposure ensures optimal ripening, while the altitude and location retain sufficient freshness.
The soils consist of poor, acidic, and coarse granite. This granite-rich subsoil yields wines with striking minerality, refined structure, and great aromatic precision. The vineyards are cultivated organically, and the grapes are harvested by hand in small crates.
The plantings consist of traditional local grape varieties that were carefully selected from old vineyards in the region. Mencía forms the base, supplemented by Brancellao, Sousón, and Garnacha, among others. This traditional field blend contributes significantly to the complexity of the wine.
2023 vintage and vinification
The 2023 vintage was characterized by an early vegetative cycle. Thanks to good water reserves from the winter, the vines were able to start the season strong. A warm spring and summer subsequently ensured rapid development of the grapes, while the intense sunshine in August advanced the harvest.
Despite the warm conditions, the vineyard managed to maintain its balance excellently. The combination of altitude, granite soils, and the influence of the Bibei Valley ensured that freshness and aromatic tension were preserved.
The grapes were fermented with natural yeasts, after which the wine matured in large wooden foudres. This aging process ensures that the influence of wood remains subtle and that the expression of the terroir takes center stage.
Scent, taste and style
Falcoeira A Capilla 2023 immediately displays an impressive aromatic intensity. Aromas of wild red fruits, black cherries, violets, and Mediterranean herbs are complemented by mineral nuances and subtle spices.
On the palate, the wine combines ripeness and concentration with remarkable refinement. The structure is deep and layered, without feeling heavy. Mencía provides elegance and freshness, while the other local grape varieties add extra complexity, structure, and aromatic tension.
The granite soils give the wine a distinct mineral core that carries through into the long finish. Despite the concentration, the wine remains energetic, precise, and extremely refined. The combination of freshness, depth, and terroir expression places Falcoeira A Capilla in the same category as the great terroir wines of Europe.
Why buy 2023 Telmo Rodriguez Falcoeira A Capilla at Grandcruwijnen?
Falcoeira A Capilla is one of the most exclusive terroir wines in Spain. The combination of a historic top vineyard, extremely labor-intensive terracing, local grape varieties, and the vision of Telmo Rodríguez results in a wine that ranks among the absolute best both within Spain and internationally.
Moreover, with a production of only 3,048 bottles, availability is very limited. For lovers of great terroir wines, Falcoeira A Capilla represents one of the most authentic and characterful expressions of modern Spain.
At Grandcruwijnen, you buy exclusive top Spanish wines directly from specialized importers. All wines are stored under optimal conditions and shipped with care, or can be picked up at our store in Dordrecht.
| Available as of | Jun 10, 2026 |
|---|---|
| Packing information | Box |
| Type of Wine | Red |
| Country | Spain |
| Region | Galicia |
| Appellation | Valdeorras (Appellation) |
| Winery | Telmo Rodriguez |
| Grape | Mencia |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Drinking as of | 2026 |
| Drinking till | 2034 |
| Alcohol % | 12.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 94 |
| James Suckling rating | 94 |
| Tasting Profiles | Complex, Donker fruit, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Rijk, Rood fruit, Vol |
| Drink moments | Barbecue, Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden, Open haard, Romantisch, Summer party, Terras |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Deze elegante, terroirgedreven rode wijn toont een levendige zuurgraad en ruwe, minerale texturen met helder rood fruit, kersen, eucalyptus, zoete specerijen en een hint witte peper, waardoor hij zowel fris als intens aanvoelt. Door die combinatie van frisse zuren, verfijnde tannines en kruidige tonen snijdt hij mooi door vet en past hij uitstekend bij rundvlees en lam, versterkt charcuterie en volle kazen, en tilt hij gegrild of barbecuede gerechten naar een hoger niveau; probeer hem bij medium-rare steak of langzaam gegaard lamsbout, bij licht gerookte of pittig-geglazuurde spareribs, of naast een platter van rijpe, harde kazen en kruidige salami voor de beste harmonie. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 93+
Reviewed by:
Luis Gutiérrez
Release Price:
$100
Drink Date:
2023 - 2027
The nose of the 2020 Falcoeira A Capilla comes through as the ripest of the reds from 2020, despite being bottled at 13.5% alcohol. It has notes of ripe berries, touches of soy sauce and iodine and a juicy and tasty palate, rich with deep flavors, and a long-lasting finish. It fermented in a 3,000-liter oak vat and matured in a 2,000-liter oak foudre. 2,664 bottles were filled in July 2022.
Telmo Rodríguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza keep working in different regions, although still quite focused in Galicia, reducing the volumes for entry-level wines and going for more serious wines, moving away from generic varietal bottlings and going more for site-designated wines. I tasted the fine wine portfolio that has just been released, different vintages depending on the place, looking at the very small details of each.
2022 was a very warm year, and the wines from Rueda were saved by some rain in mid-September that slowed the ripening and achieved fresh wines. In Valdeorras, they have discontinued the Gaba do Xil red and replaced the white with a single-vineyard bottling from the O Barreiro lieu-dit, also reducing volumes. Here, they are releasing mostly 2020s, except for the younger white from 2022. They are both warm years with an early harvest that resulted in ripe wines, with the complication of lots of fungal diseases in 2020 that decimated the crop. In Galicia, the organic certification is complex when you have neighbors, so they are still in a transition moment.
In Rioja, the current vintage is also (mostly) 2020, a challenging year with mildew, but they were lucky to escape the hail that didn't hit Lanciego but affected the vineyards in Labastida (Tabuérniga and Beatas were affected). The harvest was earlier than in 2019, but they still started the sixth of October with the terraces of Tabuérniga. Pablo Eguzkiza told me it was a strange year for Tempranillo, when Graciano ripened earlier than Tempranillo.
I tasted the wines from Galicia from Telmo Rodríguez as part of the whole portfolio tasting a couple of months ago, and the notes were published in a specific article. But now that I have tasted all the relevant wines from the different regions of Galicia, I thought it would make sense to include those notes again here, for completeness of this article and context for the rest of wines from the region, in this case Valdeorras. They have discontinued the Gaba do Xil red and replaced the white with a single-vineyard bottling from the O Barreiro lieu-dit, also reducing volumes. Here, they are releasing mostly 2020s, except for the younger white from 2022. They are both warm years with an early harvest that resulted in ripe wines, with the complication of lots of fungal diseases in 2020 that decimated the crop. In Galicia, the organic certification is complex when you have neighbors, so they are still in a transition moment.
Published: Nov 16, 2023
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James Suckling
COMPAÑIA DE VINOS TELMO RODRIGUEZ VALDEORRAS FALCOEIRA A CAPILLA 2020
Monday, October 9, 2023
CountrySpain
RegionGalicia
Vintage2020
CHECK PRICE
DOWNLOAD SHELFTALKER
Score
94
Stemmy nose with intense wild strawberries, dark cherries, sauerkraut and white pepper. Tart and juicy on the palate with a natural sensibility. Fluid and stemmy with a medium body and fine tannins. Long and quite drinkable.
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Winemaker Telmo Rodriguez is labeled as one of the young lions of the Spanish wine industry. He studied at the University of Bordeaux and later in the Rhône with the famous August Clape. He was the winemaker of La Granja Senora De Remelluri, his father's bodega in Rioja. He left there to become what some would call a flying winemaker. However, Telmo prefers to call itself a 'driving winemaker'. he lives in Madrid and drives his car to the areas where he makes wine. In a short time his wines have found a place on the international playing field. One example: in Tom Stevenson's Wine Report 2008, Telmo is included among the top 10 producers from Spain. We once again spoke extensively with Telmo Rodriguez. That is always a pleasure. If you sit down with him you always learn something or he gives food for thought. What makes this 'conscience of the Spanish wine world' so special? When Telmo completed his studies in Bordeaux and then had internships with people like Chave (Hermitage), Clape (Cornas) and Dürrbach (Trévallon) he came back to Spain. There he saw other Spaniards who had studied in France bringing French grape varieties and customs to Spain. For example, there was more and more wire guidance, while the Spanish system had always been free-standing sticks. Telmo concluded that he wanted to focus on the old qualities of Spain such as freestanding sticks, indigenous grape varieties and field blends. In addition, he was the first in Spain to introduce modern labels and he opposes the rigid Spanish wine laws.
Free standing sticks
Spain used to be a country of bush vines: the sticks were so far apart per area and per vineyard that they could each get enough water. If you place your sticks far apart with wire articulation, the stick will grow far and become much too large. With wire articulation, you therefore need many more sticks per hectare. However, the problem is that there is not enough water for this and you therefore have to irrigate, in areas that often already suffer from a shortage of water. In addition, the grapes hang more in the shade with free-standing sticks, which gives less chance of 'burning' and leads to less stewed fruit and fresher acids. The only downside to free-standing canes is that more manual work is involved in vineyard management and harvesting. Telmo works almost exclusively with bush vines.
Native grape varieties
It was clear to Telmo that there are so many good indigenous varieties in Spain that importing 'the big five' (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah) from France was not necessary at all. He was one of the first to produce good Rueda from Verdejo and Viura, he embraced Mencia and Godello in Valdeorras, Monastrell in Alicante, Moscatel in Malaga, Garnacha in Cebreros…. In the mid-1990s he was still considered crazy with this philosophy, but now everyone is following him.
Field blends
There used to be many vineyards in Spain with various grape varieties mixed together, also called 'field blends'. It is often argued against field blends that the varieties (that are picked together) are not all ripe at the same time. It speaks for the fact that diversity and disease resistance increase and that it promotes complexity. Telmo now has two vineyards with field blends in production. In Rioja he makes it Las Beatas (named after the vineyard, first vintage awarded with 97 points by Parker) and in Valdeorras Las Caborcas. Beautiful, original wines!
Spanish wine laws
Telmo was the first to remove the word Reserva from a Rioja in 1995. In his words: 'I ask my wines how long they want to stay in the wood'. One year grapes can easily handle a 12-month aging in wood, but not in another year. There was consternation about Las Beatas: the Consecho initially did not want to approve the wine made with a field blend as Rioja… while there was a time when all Rioja was made that way! Consecho did not push this to the extreme and ultimately fortunate for them, given the enormously high international appreciation.
Deze elegante, terroirgedreven rode wijn toont een levendige zuurgraad en ruwe, minerale texturen met helder rood fruit, kersen, eucalyptus, zoete specerijen en een hint witte peper, waardoor hij zowel fris als intens aanvoelt. Door die combinatie van frisse zuren, verfijnde tannines en kruidige tonen snijdt hij mooi door vet en past hij uitstekend bij rundvlees en lam, versterkt charcuterie en volle kazen, en tilt hij gegrild of barbecuede gerechten naar een hoger niveau; probeer hem bij medium-rare steak of langzaam gegaard lamsbout, bij licht gerookte of pittig-geglazuurde spareribs, of naast een platter van rijpe, harde kazen en kruidige salami voor de beste harmonie.
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