2023 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Les Combettes'
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| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | |
| Appellation | |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | Standard (0.75 ltr) (13.5%) |
| Drink window | 2027 - 2048 |
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This relatively small estate is located in the village of Puligny Montrachet. Gérard Boudot is married to the granddaughter of Etienne Sauzet and has managed the estate since 1974. Little by little, he managed to rediscover the typical characteristics of the various terroirs, and for the last ten years, he has been producing magnificent Puligny wines. He now works together with his daughter. Gérard Boudot derives the concentration of his wines from a harvest picked as late as possible and in good health. He achieves the finesse and the characteristic elegance through his slow vinification. This harmony is found in both his standard Chardonnay and his Grand Crus, each time displaying the very typical terroir nuances. Known worldwide, these wines have become almost impossible to find. For several years now, Gérard Boudot has been assisted by his daughter Emilie and son-in-law Benoit Riffault. In recent years, Benoit has been responsible for winemaking, with Gérard in a coaching role in the background.
Benoît Riffault is pleased with his 2022 wines, and with good reason, as this ranks among his best vintages to date. His harvest dates were more or less the same as in 2020, so relatively speaking slightly earlier, and this translates into impeccable balance across the board. Hand-harvested fruit is pressed without crushing. The pressing cycle lasts about three and a half hours and performs "a considerable number," that is to say, more than 20 rotations. The must is sulfited at the end of the pressing and settles for 24 hours, but Riffault retains the majority of the lees and ferments in wood. Larger formats, including foudres, now complement 228-liter Burgundian barrels. The wines are stored in tanks in July/August before the new vintage begins, while the premiers and grands crus spend as much as six months on their lees before bottling. All Sauzet wines are bottled with high-quality, unbleached natural cork.
The 'Les Combettes' plot lies between the other Premier Crus 'Champ-Canet' and 'Les Referts', and is situated directly adjacent to Meursault. The Puligny Montrachet 'Les Combettes' 1er Cru 2022 has a pure, precise bouquet of wet limestone, Granny Smith apples, menthol, and light scents of sea spray that can only originate from this appellation. The taste is very balanced, one of the most powerful Premier Crus from Sauzet. It possesses perhaps the zesty and, in terms of texture, the most satisfying finish, which lingers long in the mouth. Only 5,750 bottles were produced in 2022.
| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Puligny-Montrachet |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Domaine Etienne Sauzet |
| Grape | Chardonnay |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Drinking as of | 2027 |
| Drinking till | 2048 |
| Alcohol % | 13.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | Standard (0.75 ltr) |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 94 |
| Vinous rating | 96 |
| Tasting Profiles | Complex, Houtgerijpt, Mineraal, Rond, Steenfruit, Wit fruit |
| Drink moments | Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Deze Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes toont aromas van witte perzik, sinaasappelschil en bloemen, met geroosterde hazelnoot, romige textuur, levendige zuren en een kalkachtige mineraliteit die in een lange, precieze afdronk samenkomen. Door die frisse zuurgraad en minerale spanning snijdt de wijn door rijke sauzen en boterigheid heen, terwijl het rijpe steenfruit en de nootachtige tonen zacht aansluiten bij delicate schaal- en schelpdieren, witte vis en gevogelte; bij gerijpte kazen zoals Comté vormt hij een harmonieuze tegenhanger. Extra geslaagde bereidingswijzen zijn coquilles kort aanbakken en afronden met een beetje beurre blanc, tarbot of zeetong licht pittig bakken en serveren met citroen en peterselie, en gevogelte of kalfsvlees in een romige champignon- of wijnsaus. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP (92-94)
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is terrific, offering up aromas of pear, citrus zest, white flowers, toasted nuts and fresh mint, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that's dense and structured, with racy acids and chalky grip. I suspect it may surpass even the excellent 2020 version.
Benoît Riffault is pleased with his 2022s, and with reason, as it numbers among his finest vintages to date. His harvest dates were more or less the same as in 2020, which is to say, relatively speaking, a little earlier, and that translates to impeccable balance across the board. But what are the rudiments of winemaking at this address today? Hand-harvested fruit is pressed without crushing, the press cycle lasting around three and a half hours and performing "quite a few," which is to say more than 20, rotations. The must is sulfited at the end of the press and settled for 24 hours, but Riffault retains most of the lees, fermenting in wood with ambient yeasts. Larger formats, including foudres, now complement 228-liter Burgundian barrels. The wines are racked to tank in July-August before the new vintage, whereas the premiers and grands crus spend as much as six months on their lees before bottling. All of Sauzet's wines are bottled with high-quality unbleached and unwaxed natural cork.
Published: Jan 18, 2024
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Vinous
(94-96)
Drinking Window
2027 - 2048
From: The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has another riveting bouquet with notes of white peach, orange pith and crushed limestone. It is intense but very elegant and delineated. The palate has exquisite balance and a little more rondeur compared to others. A touch more spiciness emerges toward the finish, with perhaps the longest aftertaste. This is superb.
- By Neal Martin on November 2024
On an idyllic sunny October morning, I met with winemaker Benoit Riffault, who showed the complete range of wines from Sauzet that includes a couple of additional cuvées. We ascended up to the new tasting room overlooking the golden hues of the Puligny vineyards. We first discussed the 2024 season and to what extent organic farming poses a challenge.
“We have been practicing biodynamic [farming] for ten years,” he replies, “but we are not certified, though we are certified organic. Certainly, it is much harder, and we had to do 15 or 16 treatments with copper. We have around half the crop in 2024.”
We then moved onto the subject in question: the 2023s.
“It is an easy vintage during the vegetation period: not too much stress with no mildew, just a little oidium. The most difficult part was the ripening and maturity period, as we had rain close to harvest. Some of the vineyards were ripe, so it was difficult deciding whether to go ahead with picking or not. Then, the picking windows were small because after five or six days, the sugar was increasing very quickly. You had to be careful not to pick early or too late. We started on August 28 for just one day picking two [early ripening] plots, then restarted on August 31, finishing the Puligny on September 5 or 6, before the Hautes-Côtes between September 10 and 12. The vinification wasn’t too difficult. It was not particularly high in acidity, and I wanted to keep that, so I cut out the final pressings [fractions] that contain higher pH levels. I didn’t have to change the acidity at all. The acidity levels are around 3.25 and 3.30 [pH]. The wines are a little fresher than expected with good balance. Maybe the 2022s have more concentration and will age better? But perhaps 2023 has higher quality of fruit and mineralité.”
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The relatively small Etienne Sauzet domain is located in the village of Puligny-Montrachet. This world-famous producer of white burgundy actually needs little explanation. After all, owner and winemaker Gérard Boudot has given the domain world fame. From the day Etienne Sauzet died during the harvest in 1975, Boudot has been Sauzet's responsible winemaker.
For several years Gérard Boudot has been assisted by his daughter Emilie and son-in-law Benoit Riffault. Benoit has been responsible for winemaking in recent years, with Gérard in a coaching role in the background.
Sauzet wines are the pinnacle of purity, elegance, finesse and terroir expression. After first experimenting on a few plots, plots have been biodynamically processed since 2009. In recent years, all vineyards have been cultivated on the basis of biodynamic agricultural principles. Gérard Boudot gets the concentration of his wines from the harvest that was picked as late and healthy as possible. He obtains the finesse and the so characteristic elegance through a slow vinification. This harmony can be found both in his ordinary Chardonnay and in his Premiers Crus and Grand Crus, each with the very typical terroir nuances. The style of the wines is very precise, flawless and expressive, whereby the different terroirs are clearly visible. Currently they are again among the absolute top for white Burgundies.
Deze Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes toont aromas van witte perzik, sinaasappelschil en bloemen, met geroosterde hazelnoot, romige textuur, levendige zuren en een kalkachtige mineraliteit die in een lange, precieze afdronk samenkomen. Door die frisse zuurgraad en minerale spanning snijdt de wijn door rijke sauzen en boterigheid heen, terwijl het rijpe steenfruit en de nootachtige tonen zacht aansluiten bij delicate schaal- en schelpdieren, witte vis en gevogelte; bij gerijpte kazen zoals Comté vormt hij een harmonieuze tegenhanger. Extra geslaagde bereidingswijzen zijn coquilles kort aanbakken en afronden met een beetje beurre blanc, tarbot of zeetong licht pittig bakken en serveren met citroen en peterselie, en gevogelte of kalfsvlees in een romige champignon- of wijnsaus.
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