2023 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Champ-Canet'
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| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | |
| Appellation | |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | Standard (0.75 ltr) (13.5%) |
| Drink window | 2026 - 2042 |
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This relatively small estate is located in the village of Puligny Montrachet. Gérard Boudot is married to the granddaughter of Etienne Sauzet and has managed the estate since 1974. Little by little, he managed to rediscover the typical characteristics of the various terroirs, and for the last ten years, he has been producing magnificent Puligny wines. He now works together with his daughter. Gérard Boudot derives the concentration of his wines from a harvest picked as late as possible and in good health. He achieves the finesse and the characteristic elegance through his slow vinification. This harmony is found in both his standard Chardonnay and his Grand Crus, each time displaying the very typical terroir nuances. Known worldwide, these wines have become almost impossible to find. For several years now, Gérard Boudot has been assisted by his daughter Emilie and son-in-law Benoit Riffault. In recent years, Benoit has been responsible for winemaking, with Gérard in a coaching role in the background.
Benoît Riffault is pleased with his 2022 wines, and with good reason, as this ranks among his best vintages to date. His harvest dates were more or less the same as in 2020, so relatively speaking slightly earlier, and this translates into impeccable balance across the board. Hand-harvested fruit is pressed without crushing. The pressing cycle lasts about three and a half hours and performs "a considerable number," that is to say, more than 20 rotations. The must is sulfited at the end of the pressing and settles for 24 hours, but Riffault retains the majority of the lees and ferments in wood. Larger formats, including foudres, now complement 228-liter Burgundian barrels. The wines are stored in tanks in July/August before the new vintage begins, while the premiers and grands crus spend as much as six months on their lees before bottling. All Sauzet wines are bottled with high-quality, unbleached natural cork.
The 'Champ-Canet' plot lies between other Premier Crus 'Les Combettes' and 'Les Chalumaux', and is also situated directly adjacent to Meursault's 'Les Perrieres Dessous'. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet 2022 is excellent, blending aromas of lemon oil, candied citrus fruits, white flowers, freshly baked bread, and mandarin, followed by a medium to full, satiny, and seamless taste that is concentrated and structured, and finishing with a long, nutmeg-tinged aftertaste. Only 7,460 bottles were produced in 2022.
| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Puligny-Montrachet |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Domaine Etienne Sauzet |
| Grape | Chardonnay |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Drinking as of | 2026 |
| Drinking till | 2042 |
| Alcohol % | 13.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | Standard (0.75 ltr) |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Vinous rating | 95 |
| Tasting Profiles | Complex, Fris, Houtgerijpt, Mineraal, Steenfruit, Wit fruit |
| Drink moments | Cadeau!, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | Deze 2023 Champ-Canet toont een fijn samenspel van rijpe citrus, geel steenfruit, bijenwas/lanoline, subtiele toast en uitgesproken mineraliteit met een zilveren zuurgraad die energie en lengte geeft. Daardoor sluit hij prachtig aan bij gevogelte, witte vis, schelp- en schaaldieren en rijpe kazen omdat de frisse zuren en minerale spanning vettere smaken snijden, delicate zeevruchten verfijnen en romige sauzen in balans houden zonder te overheersen. Gerechten bereid op de huid of licht gegrild, zacht gebakken in beurre noisette, kort gebakken coquilles of kreeft met een romige citroen- of botersaus en langzaam gegaard kalfsvlees met een subtiele romige reductie laten zijn textuur, nuance en lange afdronk het beste tot hun recht komen. |
Vinous
(93-95)
Drinking Window
2027 - 2048
From: The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru showed more reduction on the nose, yet there is clearly a lot of intensity here. It's slightly more resinous than its peers, containing touches of melted candle wax and lanolin. The palate is well balanced and poised, with a keen silver thread of acidity and real energy building toward an assertive and complex finish. It is far superior to the 2022 when I tasted it last year. This is superb.
- By Neal Martin on November 2024
On an idyllic sunny October morning, I met with winemaker Benoit Riffault, who showed the complete range of wines from Sauzet that includes a couple of additional cuvées. We ascended up to the new tasting room overlooking the golden hues of the Puligny vineyards. We first discussed the 2024 season and to what extent organic farming poses a challenge.
“We have been practicing biodynamic [farming] for ten years,” he replies, “but we are not certified, though we are certified organic. Certainly, it is much harder, and we had to do 15 or 16 treatments with copper. We have around half the crop in 2024.”
We then moved onto the subject in question: the 2023s.
“It is an easy vintage during the vegetation period: not too much stress with no mildew, just a little oidium. The most difficult part was the ripening and maturity period, as we had rain close to harvest. Some of the vineyards were ripe, so it was difficult deciding whether to go ahead with picking or not. Then, the picking windows were small because after five or six days, the sugar was increasing very quickly. You had to be careful not to pick early or too late. We started on August 28 for just one day picking two [early ripening] plots, then restarted on August 31, finishing the Puligny on September 5 or 6, before the Hautes-Côtes between September 10 and 12. The vinification wasn’t too difficult. It was not particularly high in acidity, and I wanted to keep that, so I cut out the final pressings [fractions] that contain higher pH levels. I didn’t have to change the acidity at all. The acidity levels are around 3.25 and 3.30 [pH]. The wines are a little fresher than expected with good balance. Maybe the 2022s have more concentration and will age better? But perhaps 2023 has higher quality of fruit and mineralité.”
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The relatively small Etienne Sauzet domain is located in the village of Puligny-Montrachet. This world-famous producer of white burgundy actually needs little explanation. After all, owner and winemaker Gérard Boudot has given the domain world fame. From the day Etienne Sauzet died during the harvest in 1975, Boudot has been Sauzet's responsible winemaker.
For several years Gérard Boudot has been assisted by his daughter Emilie and son-in-law Benoit Riffault. Benoit has been responsible for winemaking in recent years, with Gérard in a coaching role in the background.
Sauzet wines are the pinnacle of purity, elegance, finesse and terroir expression. After first experimenting on a few plots, plots have been biodynamically processed since 2009. In recent years, all vineyards have been cultivated on the basis of biodynamic agricultural principles. Gérard Boudot gets the concentration of his wines from the harvest that was picked as late and healthy as possible. He obtains the finesse and the so characteristic elegance through a slow vinification. This harmony can be found both in his ordinary Chardonnay and in his Premiers Crus and Grand Crus, each with the very typical terroir nuances. The style of the wines is very precise, flawless and expressive, whereby the different terroirs are clearly visible. Currently they are again among the absolute top for white Burgundies.
Deze 2023 Champ-Canet toont een fijn samenspel van rijpe citrus, geel steenfruit, bijenwas/lanoline, subtiele toast en uitgesproken mineraliteit met een zilveren zuurgraad die energie en lengte geeft. Daardoor sluit hij prachtig aan bij gevogelte, witte vis, schelp- en schaaldieren en rijpe kazen omdat de frisse zuren en minerale spanning vettere smaken snijden, delicate zeevruchten verfijnen en romige sauzen in balans houden zonder te overheersen. Gerechten bereid op de huid of licht gegrild, zacht gebakken in beurre noisette, kort gebakken coquilles of kreeft met een romige citroen- of botersaus en langzaam gegaard kalfsvlees met een subtiele romige reductie laten zijn textuur, nuance en lange afdronk het beste tot hun recht komen.
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