2020 Weingut Wittmann Gundersheimer Riesling Aus Ersten Lagen BIO
| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | Germany |
| Region | |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (12.5%) |
| Drink window | 2022 - 2033 |
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Demand for the wines of this top producer from Rheinhessen is constantly increasing, partly due to the many rave reviews. It would have been easy to capitalize on this success, buy a few more vineyards, and ride the wave of success. As a purist seeking absolute quality at the highest possible level, Philipp is taking the opposite approach: by reducing yields and selecting the fruit, he produces fewer bottles labeled below the highest level, further enhancing the overall quality of the "Estate" wines. The most significant change is the introduction of three "Aus Ersten Lagen" wines: Gundersheimer, Westhogener, and Niersteiner. These wines bear the name of their respective municipalities but come from one or more vineyards labeled "Erste Lage." These wines are released one year after harvest, the same time as the Grosses Gewächse were previously launched. These latter top wines are now released six months later.
After two fantastic years, 2020 completed the hat trick of warm and good vintages, a relatively easy feat for a winemaker. The drought of previous years didn't hinder this year, nor was there excessive heat. Rain fell in abundance, but not at the wrong times. This means Philipp was able to harvest perfectly ripe and healthy grapes. The resulting wines have the aromatic expression of 2018 with the mineral sharpness of 2019. A vintage they are very proud of!
The Gundersheimer is a typical Riesling that lives up to its character. Beautifully concentrated, powerful, complex, and minerally. Produced biodynamically by the high-quality Weingut Wittmann winery in the Rheinhessen region. The Wittmann Gundersheimer Erste Lage borders the Morstein GG. It is a fresh and taut wine with a firm mineral structure and relatively slim for Rheinhessen. The Gundersheimer Riesling "Aus Ersten Lagen" is quite open and absolutely sexy on the nose, combining the purity of chalky soils with the attractive fruit of deep chalky soils. Very elegant on the palate, this is a pure, deep, and juicy yet refined dry Riesling with fine tannins and a persistent salinity. Very compact yet broad and playful enough to be immediately appealing, it can also easily age for 10+ years. 93/100 Suckling
Located in Westhofen in the Rheinhessen wine region, Weingut Wittmann produces biodynamic wines with terroir expression and extreme precision. The Wittmanns and their ancestors have been winemakers in Westhofen since the 17th century. The experience of some 350 vintages from over 15 generations is a significant part of the family's priceless heritage. Time and tranquility are essential ingredients for making a good wine. And this is precisely what the wines receive in abundance in the vaulted cellar, built in 1829. Winemaker Philipp Wittmann watches over his wines under constant temperature and humidity conditions as they mature in 80 wooden barrels. The oldest of these barrels dates back to 1890 and has housed many great vintages. Each barrel contains the harvest from a single vineyard plot.
| Packing information | Box |
|---|---|
| Type of Wine | White |
| Country | Germany |
| Region | Rheinhessen |
| Winery | Weingut Wittmann |
| Grape | Riesling |
| Biological certified | Yes |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Drinking as of | 2022 |
| Drinking till | 2033 |
| Alcohol % | 12.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 92 |
| James Suckling rating | 93 |
| Tasting Profiles | Complex, Droog, Mineraal, Rijk, Strak |
| Drink moments | Iets te vieren, Lekker luxe, Romantisch, Voor alledag |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | De 2020 Weingut Wittmann Gundersheimer Riesling Aus Ersten Lagen BIO is een prachtige droge Riesling met een krachtig, mineralig karakter en een frisse, sappige smaak. De wijn combineert aromatische fruittonen met een elegante zuurgraad en fijne tannines, waardoor hij zeer verfijnd en speels tegelijk aanvoelt. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij witte vis en vettige vis, omdat de frisse zuurgraad en mineraliteit de rijke vetheid in deze gerechten mooi in balans brengen, vooral als de vis gegrild of gestoomd wordt. Ook schelpdieren en schaaldieren vormen een perfecte match, vooral wanneer ze bereid zijn met lichte, frisse sauzen of simpel gekookt, zodat de pure fruit- en minerale tonen van de wijn goed tot hun recht komen. Een bereiding met een frisse citrusmarinade of een lichte kruidenboter benadrukt de delicatessen in zowel gerecht als wijn en zorgt voor een onweerstaanbare combinatie. |
Parker
Rating
(91 - 92)
Release Price
NA
Drink Date
2020 - 2032
Reviewed by
Stephan Reinhardt
Issue Date
13th Aug 2020
Source
August 2020 Week 2, The Wine Advocate
The 2019 Gundersheimer Riesling "Aus Ersten Lagen" is pretty open and absolutely sexy now on the nose and pairs the purity of calcareous soils with the attractive fruit of deep calcareous soils. Very elegant on the palate, this is a pure, deep and succulent yet finessed dry Riesling with fine tannins and lingering salinity. Very compact but wide and playful enough to be immediately attractive. Tasted as a sample in April 2020.
Philipp Wittmann himself is torn as to which of his GGs he likes best in 2019. In my tasting, in May the choice was easy. The Brunnenhäuschen GG shows all the merits of the vintage at its best: highly elegant, refined and complex yet weightless, with immense finesse and energy. However, Morstein and La Borne are hardly behind, they just weren't as developed. Without a doubt, Wittmann's 2019s, especially these three Riesling GGs, are great wines, even greater than the 2018s, possibly even the finest of the last 20 years, even though he himself sees 2001 and 2002 at the same high level. And that, according to Philipp, borders on "a miracle" because the 2019 vintage was "quite turbulent." Only at the time of harvesting the "perfectly ripe and healthy grapes" did it become clear that 2019 could bear great wines. "The berries were not overripe at all and were really crunchy when we picked them," says Philipp.
The year started late in the vineyards, and the flowering around June 10th was also rather late compared to the two previous years. A "turbo summer" followed with nothing but sunshine, under which the vines caught up. The fruit set was low after the above-average yield in 2018 and should be at 45 hectoliters per hectare at the end of the harvest. This benefited the vintage just as much as the cool nights from mid-August until the end of the harvest on October 5, during which the characteristic acidity of 2019 was not only preserved but also remained lively and refreshing. The fruit is clear and ripe but also rather cool, elegant and extremely precise. The wines are fresh and vital, enormously stringent and reflect their respective terroirs in an exemplary manner.
In the absence of pressure during the harvest, Wittmann was able to sort the fruits wonderfully, so that he was able to collect many pieces for the final blend. "For the first time, we even harvested according to the age of the vines, and processed and vinified all grapes from vines younger than 15 years separately. Only the grapes from older vines went into the crus from Erste and Grosse Lagen." That was a good idea considering the dry summer, even though the soils in Westhofen are deep anyway and especially the Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein have underground springs.
The harvest began on September 16th with the Pinots, and the Rieslings were harvested from the 25th. Despite the hot summer, this is 20 days later than 2018, which was already finished on October 2nd, but of course had a longer harvest season. Of the warm vintages of this century, 2018 is the best according to Philipp, but 2019 is the greater vintage because of the cool precision. The alcohol values are all in a moderate range of 12.4% to 12.7%. Of the older vintages, 2007 is now drinking very well; this too was a year with a long, sunny autumn, with almost four months between flowering and harvesting of the GGs. 2012 also shows his class in a very puristic, fresh way, while 2015 is still much too young to drink.
I am looking forward to tasting Wittmann's 2019 GGs again soon from the bottle. The report will follow in autumn. However, readers should not hesitate to buy now before the wines are gone. Wittmann is a reliable and great producer who hasn't disappointed me in 20 years. Try the impressive estate Riesling or the exceptional Westhofener, and you'll know the road you have to travel: up into the sky.
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James Suckling
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Located in Westhofen in the Rheinhessen wine region, Weingut Wittmann produces biodynamic wines with terroir expression and extreme precision. The Wittmanns and their ancestors have been wine growers in Westhofen since the 17th century. The experience of some 350 volumes of more than 15 generations is great in the priceless heritage of the family. Time and rest are essential ingredients for making a good wine. And this is exactly what the wines get in abundance in the vaulted cellar, built in 1829. Winemaker Philipp Wittmann watches over his wines, under constant temperature and humidity conditions, while maturing in 80 wooden barrels. The oldest of these barrels is from the year 1890 and has already housed many great vintages. Each barrel contains the harvest of 1 single vineyard plot.
Star winemaker Philipp Wittmann (responsible for the cellar and export), together with father Günther (vineyards) and mother Elisabeth (sales), have built a fantastic wine company in Westhofen, Rheinhessen. Since 1990, work has been done biologically and later biologically dynamically. The starting point for the wines is therefore: terroir expression through healthy soil. A low yield per hectare, manual selection of the best grapes and a very slow vinification with natural yeasts without the addition of sulfite on large wooden feeds do the rest. The house is 'the standard' for Rheinhessen and now also a standard for German white in general. This is evident from the enormous flow of international valuations that the wines receive, both higher and lower. For example, Philipp has already twice been named the best white winemaker in Germany by the authoritative Eichelmann in 2003 and 2013. In 2014 he received the same title from Gault Millau. Philipp is married to Eva Clüsserath who owns her own wine estate in the Moselle. Philipp is said to hate August: he has to divide his Grosse Gewächse. This is especially annoying because the demand is increasing and the supply is small. So he actually has too little for everyone. Not surprising, given that his GGs earn up to 96 points from Parker, he was crowned Germany's best white winemaker twice by Eichelmann, winemaker of the year at Gault Millau in 2014, and at Schlemmer Atlas in 2015 and annually in Mainz during the GG tasting as one of the very best!
Wittmann has consistently opted for quality, which means that he only releases the finest fruit from his vineyards as GG. The rest goes in the Westhofener and even the Riesling Trocken is partly made with this noble fruit.
Food Pairings
De 2020 Weingut Wittmann Gundersheimer Riesling Aus Ersten Lagen BIO is een prachtige droge Riesling met een krachtig, mineralig karakter en een frisse, sappige smaak. De wijn combineert aromatische fruittonen met een elegante zuurgraad en fijne tannines, waardoor hij zeer verfijnd en speels tegelijk aanvoelt. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij witte vis en vettige vis, omdat de frisse zuurgraad en mineraliteit de rijke vetheid in deze gerechten mooi in balans brengen, vooral als de vis gegrild of gestoomd wordt. Ook schelpdieren en schaaldieren vormen een perfecte match, vooral wanneer ze bereid zijn met lichte, frisse sauzen of simpel gekookt, zodat de pure fruit- en minerale tonen van de wijn goed tot hun recht komen. Een bereiding met een frisse citrusmarinade of een lichte kruidenboter benadrukt de delicatessen in zowel gerecht als wijn en zorgt voor een onweerstaanbare combinatie.
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