2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole
| Type of Wine | |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | |
| Appellation | |
| Winery | Domaine Clos de Tart |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (14%) |
| Drink window | 2023 - 2048 |
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Description
2017 is part of a series of what we can call 'early' vintages, which have been returning to the region since 2003. After a fairly cold winter, they had the warmest March since 1957. As a result, bud breakout started early on March 30. Despite a worrying cold snap in April, which reignited fears of frost, the spring was mostly summery and this stimulated very rapid growth. The vines were in bloom on June 2, marking the beginning of a summer that turned out to be very beautiful and sunny. The harvest started on September 6 and ended four days later. The harvested grapes were excellent, very healthy with relatively thick skins and a beautiful aromatic spectrum.
The end of malolactic fermentation was in June 2018. The wine matures for 19 months in French oak barrels and 1 month in tanks. The wine was bottled in May 2019. Compared to 2016 (a vintage that shows all the characteristics of a concentrated year), the characteristics of 2017 are elegance and freshness. It has a nice depth and a complex aromatic spectrum with both fruity (red fruits showing more hints of blackberry with aeration) and floral (particularly violet and rose) notes. With a very precise structure, characteristic of Clos de Tart in its best years.
FACT : In the Tab: Appendix you will find the official fact sheet of this beautiful wine. We will send it to you automatically when you order this wine. The wine is stored in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you pick up the wine you will often receive a nice discount. You will immediately see the possible discount if you choose Pickup in the Checkout page. We are almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
Specifications
| Type of Wine | Red |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Morey-Saint-Denis |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Domaine Clos de Tart |
| Grape | Pinot Noir |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Drinking as of | 2023 |
| Drinking till | 2048 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 95 |
| Vinous rating | 98 |
| Tasting Profiles | Aards, Boers, Complex, Droog, Fruitig, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Rood fruit, Soepel, Tannines, Vol |
| Drink moments | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | De 2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole is een elegante wijn met een mooie balans tussen frisheid en diepgang. Je proeft rijke aroma’s van rode vruchten zoals bramen, aangevuld met bloemige tonen van violet en roos, terwijl de fijne structuur en complexiteit zorgen voor een verfijnde smaakbeleving. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij gerechten met lam of wild, vooral wanneer ze bereid worden met subtiele kruiden en een lichte saus, omdat de frisse en fruitige karakter van de wijn mooi de rijke en hartige smaken in balans brengt. Gebakken of langzaam gegaard vlees met een zachte saus komt hier bijvoorbeeld uitstekend tot zijn recht. |
Professional Reviews
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 95
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Drink Date: 2027 - 2050
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a little shut down after its recent bottling, but it is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, wilted rose petals, peonies and dark chocolate, with only hints of the complexity to come with bottle age. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, supple and succulent, with an ample and enveloping core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent acids, displaying good concentration and concluding with a long and perfumed finish. This is a fine showing for Clos de Tart, and despite its elegance, this 2017 will evidently reward bottle age.
This was my first tasting with Alessandro Noli, the new régisseur of Clos de Tart. Noli previously superintended the Rhône's Château Grillet and before that worked at Domaine d'Eugenie in Vosne-Romanée. A new cuverie has been constructed and the cellars renovated, and it is clear that everything will change at this historic address—but more on that next year, as the wines I tased on this occasion had all been made by the previous régisseur, Jacques Desvauges, who is now installed next door at the Domaine des Lambrays. Desvauges harvested early in 2018 but nonetheless a few days after the Clos des Lambrays was picked, and the resulting wines are quite ripe, oaky and fruit-driven in style, nodding as much to the Sylvain Pitiot era at Clos de Tart as they do to Desvauges's 2017, 2016, or even 2015 vintages. Indeed, on the basis of this first encounter, the 2018 would rank as my least-favorite of Desvauges's four vintages here by some margin. But a definitive judgment will have to wait until the wine is in bottle next year, when I look forward to going into more detail about the changes at the estate, as well as tasting Noli's first wines.
I much enjoyed this tasting with the Domaine du Clos de Tart's Jacques Desvauges. He has produced a very fine 2017, and his 2016 lives up to the immense promise it showed from barrel. While the wines of the Pitiot era were always correct, Desvauges has been harvesting a little earlier, using a touch less new oak and working with appreciable percentages of whole clusters—and the result is wines of considerably more aromatic range, textural elegance and—in the final analysis—quite simply more emotion than anything hitherto produced in what one might call this estate's modern era. And that's great news for Burgundy.
Published: Jan 09, 2020
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
(96-98)
Drinking Window : 2024 - 2050
From: 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
- By Neal Martin on November 2018
I was recently chatting to a maven who described the 7.5-hectare monopole of Clos de Tart as the heart of Burgundy. I see his point. It seems to lie in the geographic epicentre of the Côte de Nuits, its facade dominating the T-junction in the centre of Morey-Saint-Denis where three ladies are permanently settled on an outside bench. François Pinault’s acquisition last October, just a few days before I visited, is now old news. At that time, I felt it overshadowed the equally important news that winemaker Jacques Desvauges had conjured perhaps the greatest Clos de Tart ever made, a view I maintain having tasted 50 vintages of Clos de Tart a few months ago (due on Vinous early next year, including the 2016 in bottle.) Meeting Desvauges and touring the winery, I concluded that by all appearances, nothing has changed. We will see what lies in the future now it has its place on the mantelpiece alongside Château Latour, Château Grillet, Araujo and of course, Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée. For now, let us broach the matter in hand – how the hell do you follow up an epic wine like the 2016 Clos de Tart? First, Desvauges summarized the growing season.
“March was very warm. It was the warmest since 1957. We had bud-burst on March 30 and after May or June it continued warm and sunny, with early flowering on June 1 and 2. There was only three weeks until the closing of bunches. We started to pick on September 6. I think about those early-picked vintages like 2003 or 2007. We have more experience now; we know how to handle those situations. We are probably one of the only domaines that produced less wine in 2017 than 2016 – 32hl/ha and 35hl/ha, respectively. This is one of the keys of the vintage. The Pinot Noir was generous and the great wines, in my opinion, will be those from reasonable yields. The fruit was ripe with noticeable freshness, which is what I like. You also feel the terroir. The alcohol level is 13.4° and there is 60% whole bunch in the blend.”
Well, the good news is that Desvauges follows the 2016 with a brilliant 2017. Tasting both the component cuvées per soil type and elevation, plus the final blend, this is potentially a wonderful Clos de Tart surfeit with freshness and complexity. Whilst I do not find it quite matches the ethereal concentration of the previous vintage, it is, thankfully, cut from similar cloth. Gone are the tendencies to over-egg the wine, as tended to be the case in the past, and, crucially, I find picking dates are now spot on instead of waiting for notional optimal ripeness that transpired to be overripe, evidenced by the evolution of some vintages from the late 1990s and 2000s in bottle. It will be interesting to see where Clos de Tart is priced once released onto the market, but for sure, Desvauges has taken Clos de Tart to a higher level.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
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Food
Spijs
De 2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole is een elegante wijn met een mooie balans tussen frisheid en diepgang. Je proeft rijke aroma’s van rode vruchten zoals bramen, aangevuld met bloemige tonen van violet en roos, terwijl de fijne structuur en complexiteit zorgen voor een verfijnde smaakbeleving. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij gerechten met lam of wild, vooral wanneer ze bereid worden met subtiele kruiden en een lichte saus, omdat de frisse en fruitige karakter van de wijn mooi de rijke en hartige smaken in balans brengt. Gebakken of langzaam gegaard vlees met een zachte saus komt hier bijvoorbeeld uitstekend tot zijn recht.
Klik op een categorie om heerlijke recepten te ontdekken die perfect combineren met deze wijn.
Heeft u al een gerecht in gedachte?
Laat onze AI-sommelier u helpen met het vinden van de ideale wijn bij uw gerecht
Start de Sommy Wijnadvies Tool
2017 is part of a series of what we can call 'early' vintages, which have been returning to the region since 2003. After a fairly cold winter, they had the warmest March since 1957. As a result, bud breakout started early on March 30. Despite a worrying cold snap in April, which reignited fears of frost, the spring was mostly summery and this stimulated very rapid growth. The vines were in bloom on June 2, marking the beginning of a summer that turned out to be very beautiful and sunny. The harvest started on September 6 and ended four days later. The harvested grapes were excellent, very healthy with relatively thick skins and a beautiful aromatic spectrum.
The end of malolactic fermentation was in June 2018. The wine matures for 19 months in French oak barrels and 1 month in tanks. The wine was bottled in May 2019. Compared to 2016 (a vintage that shows all the characteristics of a concentrated year), the characteristics of 2017 are elegance and freshness. It has a nice depth and a complex aromatic spectrum with both fruity (red fruits showing more hints of blackberry with aeration) and floral (particularly violet and rose) notes. With a very precise structure, characteristic of Clos de Tart in its best years.
FACT : In the Tab: Appendix you will find the official fact sheet of this beautiful wine. We will send it to you automatically when you order this wine. The wine is stored in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you pick up the wine you will often receive a nice discount. You will immediately see the possible discount if you choose Pickup in the Checkout page. We are almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
| Type of Wine | Red |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Morey-Saint-Denis |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Domaine Clos de Tart |
| Grape | Pinot Noir |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Drinking as of | 2023 |
| Drinking till | 2048 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 95 |
| Vinous rating | 98 |
| Tasting Profiles | Aards, Boers, Complex, Droog, Fruitig, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Rood fruit, Soepel, Tannines, Vol |
| Drink moments | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | De 2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole is een elegante wijn met een mooie balans tussen frisheid en diepgang. Je proeft rijke aroma’s van rode vruchten zoals bramen, aangevuld met bloemige tonen van violet en roos, terwijl de fijne structuur en complexiteit zorgen voor een verfijnde smaakbeleving. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij gerechten met lam of wild, vooral wanneer ze bereid worden met subtiele kruiden en een lichte saus, omdat de frisse en fruitige karakter van de wijn mooi de rijke en hartige smaken in balans brengt. Gebakken of langzaam gegaard vlees met een zachte saus komt hier bijvoorbeeld uitstekend tot zijn recht. |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 95
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Drink Date: 2027 - 2050
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a little shut down after its recent bottling, but it is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, wilted rose petals, peonies and dark chocolate, with only hints of the complexity to come with bottle age. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, supple and succulent, with an ample and enveloping core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent acids, displaying good concentration and concluding with a long and perfumed finish. This is a fine showing for Clos de Tart, and despite its elegance, this 2017 will evidently reward bottle age.
This was my first tasting with Alessandro Noli, the new régisseur of Clos de Tart. Noli previously superintended the Rhône's Château Grillet and before that worked at Domaine d'Eugenie in Vosne-Romanée. A new cuverie has been constructed and the cellars renovated, and it is clear that everything will change at this historic address—but more on that next year, as the wines I tased on this occasion had all been made by the previous régisseur, Jacques Desvauges, who is now installed next door at the Domaine des Lambrays. Desvauges harvested early in 2018 but nonetheless a few days after the Clos des Lambrays was picked, and the resulting wines are quite ripe, oaky and fruit-driven in style, nodding as much to the Sylvain Pitiot era at Clos de Tart as they do to Desvauges's 2017, 2016, or even 2015 vintages. Indeed, on the basis of this first encounter, the 2018 would rank as my least-favorite of Desvauges's four vintages here by some margin. But a definitive judgment will have to wait until the wine is in bottle next year, when I look forward to going into more detail about the changes at the estate, as well as tasting Noli's first wines.
I much enjoyed this tasting with the Domaine du Clos de Tart's Jacques Desvauges. He has produced a very fine 2017, and his 2016 lives up to the immense promise it showed from barrel. While the wines of the Pitiot era were always correct, Desvauges has been harvesting a little earlier, using a touch less new oak and working with appreciable percentages of whole clusters—and the result is wines of considerably more aromatic range, textural elegance and—in the final analysis—quite simply more emotion than anything hitherto produced in what one might call this estate's modern era. And that's great news for Burgundy.
Published: Jan 09, 2020
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
(96-98)
Drinking Window : 2024 - 2050
From: 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
- By Neal Martin on November 2018
I was recently chatting to a maven who described the 7.5-hectare monopole of Clos de Tart as the heart of Burgundy. I see his point. It seems to lie in the geographic epicentre of the Côte de Nuits, its facade dominating the T-junction in the centre of Morey-Saint-Denis where three ladies are permanently settled on an outside bench. François Pinault’s acquisition last October, just a few days before I visited, is now old news. At that time, I felt it overshadowed the equally important news that winemaker Jacques Desvauges had conjured perhaps the greatest Clos de Tart ever made, a view I maintain having tasted 50 vintages of Clos de Tart a few months ago (due on Vinous early next year, including the 2016 in bottle.) Meeting Desvauges and touring the winery, I concluded that by all appearances, nothing has changed. We will see what lies in the future now it has its place on the mantelpiece alongside Château Latour, Château Grillet, Araujo and of course, Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée. For now, let us broach the matter in hand – how the hell do you follow up an epic wine like the 2016 Clos de Tart? First, Desvauges summarized the growing season.
“March was very warm. It was the warmest since 1957. We had bud-burst on March 30 and after May or June it continued warm and sunny, with early flowering on June 1 and 2. There was only three weeks until the closing of bunches. We started to pick on September 6. I think about those early-picked vintages like 2003 or 2007. We have more experience now; we know how to handle those situations. We are probably one of the only domaines that produced less wine in 2017 than 2016 – 32hl/ha and 35hl/ha, respectively. This is one of the keys of the vintage. The Pinot Noir was generous and the great wines, in my opinion, will be those from reasonable yields. The fruit was ripe with noticeable freshness, which is what I like. You also feel the terroir. The alcohol level is 13.4° and there is 60% whole bunch in the blend.”
Well, the good news is that Desvauges follows the 2016 with a brilliant 2017. Tasting both the component cuvées per soil type and elevation, plus the final blend, this is potentially a wonderful Clos de Tart surfeit with freshness and complexity. Whilst I do not find it quite matches the ethereal concentration of the previous vintage, it is, thankfully, cut from similar cloth. Gone are the tendencies to over-egg the wine, as tended to be the case in the past, and, crucially, I find picking dates are now spot on instead of waiting for notional optimal ripeness that transpired to be overripe, evidenced by the evolution of some vintages from the late 1990s and 2000s in bottle. It will be interesting to see where Clos de Tart is priced once released onto the market, but for sure, Desvauges has taken Clos de Tart to a higher level.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Exclusive Content
Sign in to unlock professional wine reviews from world-renowned critics
Spijs
De 2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole is een elegante wijn met een mooie balans tussen frisheid en diepgang. Je proeft rijke aroma’s van rode vruchten zoals bramen, aangevuld met bloemige tonen van violet en roos, terwijl de fijne structuur en complexiteit zorgen voor een verfijnde smaakbeleving. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij gerechten met lam of wild, vooral wanneer ze bereid worden met subtiele kruiden en een lichte saus, omdat de frisse en fruitige karakter van de wijn mooi de rijke en hartige smaken in balans brengt. Gebakken of langzaam gegaard vlees met een zachte saus komt hier bijvoorbeeld uitstekend tot zijn recht.
Klik op een categorie om heerlijke recepten te ontdekken die perfect combineren met deze wijn.
Heeft u al een gerecht in gedachte?
Laat onze AI-sommelier u helpen met het vinden van de ideale wijn bij uw gerecht
Start de Sommy Wijnadvies ToolDescription
2017 is part of a series of what we can call 'early' vintages, which have been returning to the region since 2003. After a fairly cold winter, they had the warmest March since 1957. As a result, bud breakout started early on March 30. Despite a worrying cold snap in April, which reignited fears of frost, the spring was mostly summery and this stimulated very rapid growth. The vines were in bloom on June 2, marking the beginning of a summer that turned out to be very beautiful and sunny. The harvest started on September 6 and ended four days later. The harvested grapes were excellent, very healthy with relatively thick skins and a beautiful aromatic spectrum.
The end of malolactic fermentation was in June 2018. The wine matures for 19 months in French oak barrels and 1 month in tanks. The wine was bottled in May 2019. Compared to 2016 (a vintage that shows all the characteristics of a concentrated year), the characteristics of 2017 are elegance and freshness. It has a nice depth and a complex aromatic spectrum with both fruity (red fruits showing more hints of blackberry with aeration) and floral (particularly violet and rose) notes. With a very precise structure, characteristic of Clos de Tart in its best years.
FACT : In the Tab: Appendix you will find the official fact sheet of this beautiful wine. We will send it to you automatically when you order this wine. The wine is stored in our conditioned Wine Warehouse and if you pick up the wine you will often receive a nice discount. You will immediately see the possible discount if you choose Pickup in the Checkout page. We are almost next to the Rijksweg with plenty of parking. Click here for address.
Specifications
| Type of Wine | Red |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Bourgogne |
| Appellation | Morey-Saint-Denis |
| Icons | Icon France |
| Winery | Domaine Clos de Tart |
| Grape | Pinot Noir |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Drinking as of | 2023 |
| Drinking till | 2048 |
| Alcohol % | 14 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | No |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 95 |
| Vinous rating | 98 |
| Tasting Profiles | Aards, Boers, Complex, Droog, Fruitig, Houtgerijpt, Kruidig, Mineraal, Rood fruit, Soepel, Tannines, Vol |
| Drink moments | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
| Sommy Pairing Beschrijving | De 2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole is een elegante wijn met een mooie balans tussen frisheid en diepgang. Je proeft rijke aroma’s van rode vruchten zoals bramen, aangevuld met bloemige tonen van violet en roos, terwijl de fijne structuur en complexiteit zorgen voor een verfijnde smaakbeleving. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij gerechten met lam of wild, vooral wanneer ze bereid worden met subtiele kruiden en een lichte saus, omdat de frisse en fruitige karakter van de wijn mooi de rijke en hartige smaken in balans brengt. Gebakken of langzaam gegaard vlees met een zachte saus komt hier bijvoorbeeld uitstekend tot zijn recht. |
Professional Reviews
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 95
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Drink Date: 2027 - 2050
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a little shut down after its recent bottling, but it is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, wilted rose petals, peonies and dark chocolate, with only hints of the complexity to come with bottle age. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, supple and succulent, with an ample and enveloping core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent acids, displaying good concentration and concluding with a long and perfumed finish. This is a fine showing for Clos de Tart, and despite its elegance, this 2017 will evidently reward bottle age.
This was my first tasting with Alessandro Noli, the new régisseur of Clos de Tart. Noli previously superintended the Rhône's Château Grillet and before that worked at Domaine d'Eugenie in Vosne-Romanée. A new cuverie has been constructed and the cellars renovated, and it is clear that everything will change at this historic address—but more on that next year, as the wines I tased on this occasion had all been made by the previous régisseur, Jacques Desvauges, who is now installed next door at the Domaine des Lambrays. Desvauges harvested early in 2018 but nonetheless a few days after the Clos des Lambrays was picked, and the resulting wines are quite ripe, oaky and fruit-driven in style, nodding as much to the Sylvain Pitiot era at Clos de Tart as they do to Desvauges's 2017, 2016, or even 2015 vintages. Indeed, on the basis of this first encounter, the 2018 would rank as my least-favorite of Desvauges's four vintages here by some margin. But a definitive judgment will have to wait until the wine is in bottle next year, when I look forward to going into more detail about the changes at the estate, as well as tasting Noli's first wines.
I much enjoyed this tasting with the Domaine du Clos de Tart's Jacques Desvauges. He has produced a very fine 2017, and his 2016 lives up to the immense promise it showed from barrel. While the wines of the Pitiot era were always correct, Desvauges has been harvesting a little earlier, using a touch less new oak and working with appreciable percentages of whole clusters—and the result is wines of considerably more aromatic range, textural elegance and—in the final analysis—quite simply more emotion than anything hitherto produced in what one might call this estate's modern era. And that's great news for Burgundy.
Published: Jan 09, 2020
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
(96-98)
Drinking Window : 2024 - 2050
From: 2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
- By Neal Martin on November 2018
I was recently chatting to a maven who described the 7.5-hectare monopole of Clos de Tart as the heart of Burgundy. I see his point. It seems to lie in the geographic epicentre of the Côte de Nuits, its facade dominating the T-junction in the centre of Morey-Saint-Denis where three ladies are permanently settled on an outside bench. François Pinault’s acquisition last October, just a few days before I visited, is now old news. At that time, I felt it overshadowed the equally important news that winemaker Jacques Desvauges had conjured perhaps the greatest Clos de Tart ever made, a view I maintain having tasted 50 vintages of Clos de Tart a few months ago (due on Vinous early next year, including the 2016 in bottle.) Meeting Desvauges and touring the winery, I concluded that by all appearances, nothing has changed. We will see what lies in the future now it has its place on the mantelpiece alongside Château Latour, Château Grillet, Araujo and of course, Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée. For now, let us broach the matter in hand – how the hell do you follow up an epic wine like the 2016 Clos de Tart? First, Desvauges summarized the growing season.
“March was very warm. It was the warmest since 1957. We had bud-burst on March 30 and after May or June it continued warm and sunny, with early flowering on June 1 and 2. There was only three weeks until the closing of bunches. We started to pick on September 6. I think about those early-picked vintages like 2003 or 2007. We have more experience now; we know how to handle those situations. We are probably one of the only domaines that produced less wine in 2017 than 2016 – 32hl/ha and 35hl/ha, respectively. This is one of the keys of the vintage. The Pinot Noir was generous and the great wines, in my opinion, will be those from reasonable yields. The fruit was ripe with noticeable freshness, which is what I like. You also feel the terroir. The alcohol level is 13.4° and there is 60% whole bunch in the blend.”
Well, the good news is that Desvauges follows the 2016 with a brilliant 2017. Tasting both the component cuvées per soil type and elevation, plus the final blend, this is potentially a wonderful Clos de Tart surfeit with freshness and complexity. Whilst I do not find it quite matches the ethereal concentration of the previous vintage, it is, thankfully, cut from similar cloth. Gone are the tendencies to over-egg the wine, as tended to be the case in the past, and, crucially, I find picking dates are now spot on instead of waiting for notional optimal ripeness that transpired to be overripe, evidenced by the evolution of some vintages from the late 1990s and 2000s in bottle. It will be interesting to see where Clos de Tart is priced once released onto the market, but for sure, Desvauges has taken Clos de Tart to a higher level.
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Spijs
De 2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole is een elegante wijn met een mooie balans tussen frisheid en diepgang. Je proeft rijke aroma’s van rode vruchten zoals bramen, aangevuld met bloemige tonen van violet en roos, terwijl de fijne structuur en complexiteit zorgen voor een verfijnde smaakbeleving. Deze wijn past uitstekend bij gerechten met lam of wild, vooral wanneer ze bereid worden met subtiele kruiden en een lichte saus, omdat de frisse en fruitige karakter van de wijn mooi de rijke en hartige smaken in balans brengt. Gebakken of langzaam gegaard vlees met een zachte saus komt hier bijvoorbeeld uitstekend tot zijn recht.
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