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| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | |
| Appellation | Champagne |
| Winery | |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Grape | |
| Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (12.5%) |
| Drink window | 2026 - 2047 |
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The 2012 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Nicolas François is an impressive vintage from this iconic house and is the first release since the famous 2008 vintage. Named after the founder of the champagne house, this cuvée is produced in only the best years and reflects the classic style and finesse for which Billecart-Salmon is known.
2012 was a challenging growing season in Champagne, marked by long flowering, significant rainfall and mildew pressure. The result was a small yield, with ripening varying greatly between plots. Only the ripest and healthiest grapes were ultimately selected for this Nicolas François, harvested between 17 and 22 September. The careful selection ensured exceptional quality despite the difficult conditions.
The wine is partially fermented in oak barrels and partially malolactic fermented, 20% of which was blocked to preserve freshness. This contributes to the balance between richness and freshness. The wine matured extensively in the bottle and was disgorged in May 2023 with a subtle dosage of 3.8 grams per liter, which ensures an extra dry, gastronomic style.
The 2012 Nicolas François presents itself with a layered and expressive bouquet of candied lemon, honey blossom and ripe peach, complemented by notes of beeswax and orange peel. On the palate, the champagne is rich, powerful and structured, with a concentrated core and chalky texture. The lively acidity provides tension and freshness, which is remarkable given the warm style of the year. The finish is long and salty, with subtle savoury notes that indicate the potential for further ageing.
| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Champagne |
| Appellation | Champagne |
| Winery | Billecart-Salmon |
| Grape | Chardonnay |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Drinking as of | 2026 |
| Drinking till | 2047 |
| Alcohol % | 12.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | Yes |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 96 |
| James Suckling rating | 92 |
| Vinous rating | 90 |
| Tasting Profiles | Droog, Fris, Mineraal, Strak, Wit fruit |
| Drink moments | Cadeau!, Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Romantisch |
The Wine Advocate
RP 96
Reviewed by:
Kristaps Karklins
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2026 - 2047
Billecart-Salmon’s 2012 Nicolas François marks the first release since 2008 and stands as another success. The fundamentals remain unchanged: settling and fermentation at low temperatures, a small proportion vinified in oak barrels and partial malolactic fermentation (20% was blocked in 2012). This vintage was characterized by a prolonged flowering period, significant rainfall and mildew pressure, resulting in a small crop. The harvest of fruit, which contributed to this cuvée, took place between September 17 and 22. "It was crucial to select only the ripest fruit, as maturation varied significantly between plots," explains Billecart’s head winemaker, Florent Nys. But what of the wine itself? Disgorged in May 2023 with a dosage of 3.8 grams per liter, it exudes aromas of candied lemon, honeysuckle and ripe peach, mingling with nuances of beeswax and orange zest. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, boasting a layered, concentrated core, a chalky structure and mouthwatering acidity, despite the warm vintage. It concludes with a persistent, saline finish, hinting at the savory complexity that has emerged with such notable bottle age. Compared to the 2008, which remains tightly coiled, the 2012 is broader-shouldered and more demonstrative.
This report details the latest releases from Billecart-Salmon, featuring the 2020-based Le Réserve—a reimagined cuvée that replaces their Brut Réserve. This release reflects a number of refinements at once, including a stricter selection of fruit, an additional 20 months of aging sur lattes (now a total of 50 months), a higher proportion of perpetual reserve component and a significantly reduced dosage. Remarkably, just four years ago, their NV Brut was dosed with nine grams per liter, whereas the latest release is disgorged with only three grams per liter—three times less (de facto, Extra-Brut). “With all our investment in farming, it would be difficult to speak of terroir if we were still dosing our Champagnes with nine grams,” comments Florent Nys, head winemaker at Billecart-Salmon. Practically, this means that the sweetness that sometimes manifested on the finish of this cuvée is no more.
Regarding viticultural practices, Billecart-Salmon began converting their 100 hectares of estate-owned vineyards to organic farming in 2021 and received certification in 2024. In addition to these holdings, they cultivate another 100 hectares under contract, from which they purchase fruit. On these parcels, the use of weedkillers and chemical fertilizers has been eliminated since 2019. Furthermore, they source grapes from an additional 100 hectares, although they do not farm or manage these parcels.
Among the new releases are the two vintage-dated cuvées: the 2012 Nicolas François and the 2009 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire. The 2012 Nicolas François is the first release of this wine since 2008, as the Pinot Noir from the 2009 harvest was reserved for their Elisabeth Salmon Rosé, while the less-favorable 2010 and 2011 harvests were not deemed sufficient for standalone cuvées. The 2012 vintage, characterized by a significantly smaller yield due to rain and mildew pressure, resulted in a modest crop of approximately 7,000 kilograms per hectare. Harvest for the fruit used in this cuvée took place between September 17 and 22, with Chardonnay reaching 10.6% and Pinot Noir 11% potential alcohol. The core principles remain unchanged: a majority of old vines, settling and fermentation at low temperatures, mostly vinified in tank (with just 10% in oak) and a partial blocking of malolactic fermentation (20% blocked in the case of the 2012). As for the dosage, it was made with a liqueur from Chardonnay, vinified in oak.
Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, a vineyard Billecart-Salmon has been cultivating organically for over 15 years and officially certified since 2022, also serves as their trial site for biodynamics, and the soil here is cultivated by horse. This 0.97-hectare walled vineyard, planted in 1964, is located just next the winery, at the foot of the slope. The soil is composed of silt and clay over chalk bedrock. This was also the first cuvée Billecart-Salmon began to vinify entirely in oak in 1995 (Sous Bois followed in 2006, with the first release in 2011), initially using second-hand 228-liter barrels—primarily from François Frères but also from Seguin Moreau, Damy and Tonnellerie de Champagne. In 2010 though, they began purchasing new barrels, preparing them by “aging” with second-press wines for about five years—wines that are later not used at Billecart. The 2009 vintage spent approximately six months on the fine lees, though future vintages will undergo a longer eight-month élevage. This wine, owing to its location within a walled vineyard, tends to exhibit maturity and richness, more so than any other area in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, making it the most muscular wine in the Billecart-Salmon range. To balance this, malolactic fermentation is blocked, and the wine is given a minimal dosage. While the current market release amounts to around 4,500 bottles, future editions are anticipated to be even smaller, reflecting Billecart’s evolving viticultural practices and the reduction of yields as a consequence.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
90
From: New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2013)
(40% pinot meunier, 30% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay; L200352): Light, bright gold. Fresh red berries, orange zest and white flowers on the perfumed nose. Juicy and precise, offering energetic redcurrant and blood orange flavors that show good concentration and a supple texture. A mineral nuance adds bite to the finish, with the floral note echoing.
- By Josh Raynolds on December 2013
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Sign in to unlock professional wine reviews from world-renowned critics
Billecart Salmon is a house that radiates elegance while staying firmly rooted in the chalky soils it calls home. Since 1818, the same family in Mareuil sur Aÿ has crafted Champagne that blends freshness with finesse. Tradition here is not a museum piece, but a living part of every new vintage.
The story begins with Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, who started a small venture that has since grown into one of the best kept jewels of Champagne. Remarkably, the estate is still fully run by descendants of the founding family. No investors, no acquisitions, no industrial scale. Just generations following in each other’s footsteps with the same calm determination that defines the wines.
Early on, the family chose a winemaking approach where precision mattered more than speed. At a time when Champagne production was largely volume driven, they were already working with cooler fermentations and extended maturation. It resulted in a style that has remained soft, lively and unmistakable.
Mareuil sur Aÿ is blessed with soils that act almost like a natural cellar master. Layers of chalk retain moisture, cool the roots and give that signature tension that enthusiasts recognize in a single sip. The family works with vineyards in Premier Cru and Grand Cru villages that have been tended by the same growers for generations. Some parcels are so consistently cultivated that it almost feels as if the grapes know exactly what is expected of them.
Their blends rely heavily on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The combination of structure, brightness and depth makes the base wines distinctive even before the bubbles appear.
The work in the cellar is calm, precise and patient. Fermentation takes place at low temperatures, allowing aromas to develop slowly. This keeps the wines fresh and pure. It may sound technical, but it is mostly a matter of patience. And that patience pays off in every glass.
Using both stainless steel and oak brings extra layers without heaviness. The family believes Champagne should dance, not march. You taste that energy immediately: vibrant fruit, fine acidity and a mousse that feels almost silky.
Anyone who thinks elegant Champagne cannot age has never seen Billecart Salmon at its best. Some bottles gain new layers for decades while remaining astonishingly fresh. It is almost their signature. The balance between vibrancy and softness allows these wines to mature beautifully, sometimes so impressively that you wonder why you ever drank them young.
These wines clearly show that Billecart Salmon shines not only today, but also after long cellaring. With age, they develop deeper character and grace, ranking among the most impressive mature Champagnes we have encountered.
The distinctive style, the uninterrupted family story and the quiet dedication to quality make this house remarkable. The wines are light-footed, precise and yet complex enough to hold your attention until the last sip. You taste not only craftsmanship, but also the calm rhythm of a house that has never joined the rush of the outside world.
And in a world full of mergers and flashy marketing, it is comforting that one family still works from Mareuil sur Aÿ just as they have done for more than two hundred years.
At Grandcruwijnen you will find a fine selection from this historic house, stored in climate controlled conditions and ready to ship. We are happy to assist with sommelier advice, serving suggestions and guidance for long term ageing. You can also collect your order in Dordrecht, where we are available for personal recommendations.
The 2012 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Nicolas François is an impressive vintage from this iconic house and is the first release since the famous 2008 vintage. Named after the founder of the champagne house, this cuvée is produced in only the best years and reflects the classic style and finesse for which Billecart-Salmon is known.
2012 was a challenging growing season in Champagne, marked by long flowering, significant rainfall and mildew pressure. The result was a small yield, with ripening varying greatly between plots. Only the ripest and healthiest grapes were ultimately selected for this Nicolas François, harvested between 17 and 22 September. The careful selection ensured exceptional quality despite the difficult conditions.
The wine is partially fermented in oak barrels and partially malolactic fermented, 20% of which was blocked to preserve freshness. This contributes to the balance between richness and freshness. The wine matured extensively in the bottle and was disgorged in May 2023 with a subtle dosage of 3.8 grams per liter, which ensures an extra dry, gastronomic style.
The 2012 Nicolas François presents itself with a layered and expressive bouquet of candied lemon, honey blossom and ripe peach, complemented by notes of beeswax and orange peel. On the palate, the champagne is rich, powerful and structured, with a concentrated core and chalky texture. The lively acidity provides tension and freshness, which is remarkable given the warm style of the year. The finish is long and salty, with subtle savoury notes that indicate the potential for further ageing.
| Type of Wine | White |
|---|---|
| Country | France |
| Region | Champagne |
| Appellation | Champagne |
| Winery | Billecart-Salmon |
| Grape | Chardonnay |
| Biological certified | No |
| Natural wine | No |
| Vegan | No |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Drinking as of | 2026 |
| Drinking till | 2047 |
| Alcohol % | 12.5 |
| Alcohol free/low | No |
| Content | 0.75 ltr |
| Oak aging | Yes |
| Sparkling | Yes |
| Dessert wine | No |
| Closure | Cork |
| Parker rating | 96 |
| James Suckling rating | 92 |
| Vinous rating | 90 |
| Tasting Profiles | Droog, Fris, Mineraal, Strak, Wit fruit |
| Drink moments | Cadeau!, Iets te vieren, Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Romantisch |
The Wine Advocate
RP 96
Reviewed by:
Kristaps Karklins
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2026 - 2047
Billecart-Salmon’s 2012 Nicolas François marks the first release since 2008 and stands as another success. The fundamentals remain unchanged: settling and fermentation at low temperatures, a small proportion vinified in oak barrels and partial malolactic fermentation (20% was blocked in 2012). This vintage was characterized by a prolonged flowering period, significant rainfall and mildew pressure, resulting in a small crop. The harvest of fruit, which contributed to this cuvée, took place between September 17 and 22. "It was crucial to select only the ripest fruit, as maturation varied significantly between plots," explains Billecart’s head winemaker, Florent Nys. But what of the wine itself? Disgorged in May 2023 with a dosage of 3.8 grams per liter, it exudes aromas of candied lemon, honeysuckle and ripe peach, mingling with nuances of beeswax and orange zest. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, boasting a layered, concentrated core, a chalky structure and mouthwatering acidity, despite the warm vintage. It concludes with a persistent, saline finish, hinting at the savory complexity that has emerged with such notable bottle age. Compared to the 2008, which remains tightly coiled, the 2012 is broader-shouldered and more demonstrative.
This report details the latest releases from Billecart-Salmon, featuring the 2020-based Le Réserve—a reimagined cuvée that replaces their Brut Réserve. This release reflects a number of refinements at once, including a stricter selection of fruit, an additional 20 months of aging sur lattes (now a total of 50 months), a higher proportion of perpetual reserve component and a significantly reduced dosage. Remarkably, just four years ago, their NV Brut was dosed with nine grams per liter, whereas the latest release is disgorged with only three grams per liter—three times less (de facto, Extra-Brut). “With all our investment in farming, it would be difficult to speak of terroir if we were still dosing our Champagnes with nine grams,” comments Florent Nys, head winemaker at Billecart-Salmon. Practically, this means that the sweetness that sometimes manifested on the finish of this cuvée is no more.
Regarding viticultural practices, Billecart-Salmon began converting their 100 hectares of estate-owned vineyards to organic farming in 2021 and received certification in 2024. In addition to these holdings, they cultivate another 100 hectares under contract, from which they purchase fruit. On these parcels, the use of weedkillers and chemical fertilizers has been eliminated since 2019. Furthermore, they source grapes from an additional 100 hectares, although they do not farm or manage these parcels.
Among the new releases are the two vintage-dated cuvées: the 2012 Nicolas François and the 2009 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire. The 2012 Nicolas François is the first release of this wine since 2008, as the Pinot Noir from the 2009 harvest was reserved for their Elisabeth Salmon Rosé, while the less-favorable 2010 and 2011 harvests were not deemed sufficient for standalone cuvées. The 2012 vintage, characterized by a significantly smaller yield due to rain and mildew pressure, resulted in a modest crop of approximately 7,000 kilograms per hectare. Harvest for the fruit used in this cuvée took place between September 17 and 22, with Chardonnay reaching 10.6% and Pinot Noir 11% potential alcohol. The core principles remain unchanged: a majority of old vines, settling and fermentation at low temperatures, mostly vinified in tank (with just 10% in oak) and a partial blocking of malolactic fermentation (20% blocked in the case of the 2012). As for the dosage, it was made with a liqueur from Chardonnay, vinified in oak.
Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, a vineyard Billecart-Salmon has been cultivating organically for over 15 years and officially certified since 2022, also serves as their trial site for biodynamics, and the soil here is cultivated by horse. This 0.97-hectare walled vineyard, planted in 1964, is located just next the winery, at the foot of the slope. The soil is composed of silt and clay over chalk bedrock. This was also the first cuvée Billecart-Salmon began to vinify entirely in oak in 1995 (Sous Bois followed in 2006, with the first release in 2011), initially using second-hand 228-liter barrels—primarily from François Frères but also from Seguin Moreau, Damy and Tonnellerie de Champagne. In 2010 though, they began purchasing new barrels, preparing them by “aging” with second-press wines for about five years—wines that are later not used at Billecart. The 2009 vintage spent approximately six months on the fine lees, though future vintages will undergo a longer eight-month élevage. This wine, owing to its location within a walled vineyard, tends to exhibit maturity and richness, more so than any other area in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, making it the most muscular wine in the Billecart-Salmon range. To balance this, malolactic fermentation is blocked, and the wine is given a minimal dosage. While the current market release amounts to around 4,500 bottles, future editions are anticipated to be even smaller, reflecting Billecart’s evolving viticultural practices and the reduction of yields as a consequence.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
90
From: New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2013)
(40% pinot meunier, 30% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay; L200352): Light, bright gold. Fresh red berries, orange zest and white flowers on the perfumed nose. Juicy and precise, offering energetic redcurrant and blood orange flavors that show good concentration and a supple texture. A mineral nuance adds bite to the finish, with the floral note echoing.
- By Josh Raynolds on December 2013
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Sign in to unlock professional wine reviews from world-renowned critics
Billecart Salmon is a house that radiates elegance while staying firmly rooted in the chalky soils it calls home. Since 1818, the same family in Mareuil sur Aÿ has crafted Champagne that blends freshness with finesse. Tradition here is not a museum piece, but a living part of every new vintage.
The story begins with Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, who started a small venture that has since grown into one of the best kept jewels of Champagne. Remarkably, the estate is still fully run by descendants of the founding family. No investors, no acquisitions, no industrial scale. Just generations following in each other’s footsteps with the same calm determination that defines the wines.
Early on, the family chose a winemaking approach where precision mattered more than speed. At a time when Champagne production was largely volume driven, they were already working with cooler fermentations and extended maturation. It resulted in a style that has remained soft, lively and unmistakable.
Mareuil sur Aÿ is blessed with soils that act almost like a natural cellar master. Layers of chalk retain moisture, cool the roots and give that signature tension that enthusiasts recognize in a single sip. The family works with vineyards in Premier Cru and Grand Cru villages that have been tended by the same growers for generations. Some parcels are so consistently cultivated that it almost feels as if the grapes know exactly what is expected of them.
Their blends rely heavily on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The combination of structure, brightness and depth makes the base wines distinctive even before the bubbles appear.
The work in the cellar is calm, precise and patient. Fermentation takes place at low temperatures, allowing aromas to develop slowly. This keeps the wines fresh and pure. It may sound technical, but it is mostly a matter of patience. And that patience pays off in every glass.
Using both stainless steel and oak brings extra layers without heaviness. The family believes Champagne should dance, not march. You taste that energy immediately: vibrant fruit, fine acidity and a mousse that feels almost silky.
Anyone who thinks elegant Champagne cannot age has never seen Billecart Salmon at its best. Some bottles gain new layers for decades while remaining astonishingly fresh. It is almost their signature. The balance between vibrancy and softness allows these wines to mature beautifully, sometimes so impressively that you wonder why you ever drank them young.
These wines clearly show that Billecart Salmon shines not only today, but also after long cellaring. With age, they develop deeper character and grace, ranking among the most impressive mature Champagnes we have encountered.
The distinctive style, the uninterrupted family story and the quiet dedication to quality make this house remarkable. The wines are light-footed, precise and yet complex enough to hold your attention until the last sip. You taste not only craftsmanship, but also the calm rhythm of a house that has never joined the rush of the outside world.
And in a world full of mergers and flashy marketing, it is comforting that one family still works from Mareuil sur Aÿ just as they have done for more than two hundred years.
At Grandcruwijnen you will find a fine selection from this historic house, stored in climate controlled conditions and ready to ship. We are happy to assist with sommelier advice, serving suggestions and guidance for long term ageing. You can also collect your order in Dordrecht, where we are available for personal recommendations.
