2019 Muchada-Léclapart Elixir

Type of Wine | White |
---|---|
Country | Spain |
Region | |
Winery | |
Vintage | 2019 |
Grape | , |
Content (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (14%) |
Drink window | 2022 - 2029 |
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Description
The new Cult wines of Spain, that's how we can call the wines of Alejandro Muchada because the international wine press is unanimously enthusiastic about these wines.
Alejandro Muchada had little affinity for wine in his student days. Alejandro Muchada comes from Cadiz and had little affinity with wine in his student days, but caught the wine bug. The name David Léclapart meant nothing to him when he met him by chance during a tour of France and decided to help during the harvest of champagne house Léclapart. That summer was the start of a journey of discovery within biodynamics and becoming a 'vigneron'.
All this resulted in a biodynamic approach to the albariza when coming home to Sanlucar de Barrameda. Still wines based on palomino and moscatel without mutage (strengthening with alcohol which is usual for sherry). Wines that are one by one special, neither filtered nor aged with flor and all come from certain plots. In total, Alejandro and David own 3 hectares that are biodynamically farmed.
The Elixir is a new dry blend of Palomino and Moscatel grapes. The Palomino comes from old vines in Viña La Platera of Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on classic albariza soils, and the Moscatel comes from Viña Camino del Puerto in the Pago Abulagar in the village of Chipiona on sandy soils with some clay. There is 60% Palomino and 40% Moscatel, and it is fermented in Bordeaux oak barrels with native yeasts. Small yields of 1500 to 2500 liters per hectare, very unusual for this region. Fermentation and aging in old Bordelese barrels. Spontaneous fermentation without intervention or intervention and minimal addition of sulfites. The wines are bottled unfiltered and without cold stabilization.
The Elixir has a light color with some cloudiness in the glass. It is perfumed, clean, expressive and showy, with notes of orange blossom, white pepper and a salty/silty twist. The taste is dry, serious, balanced, with focused flavors and a dry finish with a bitter twist. With waltzes comes even more complexity and nuances. Very surprising and pleasant. Amazing length. Big! Around 4000 bottles are made.
FACT FACT: Alejandro Muchada recommends letting the bottles rest for 2 weeks after delivery and only then opening them. Once the wine is open, it changes over time and becomes even more complex after a few days. Very remarkable!
Specifications
Type of Wine | White |
---|---|
Country | Spain |
Region | Andalucía |
Winery | Muchada-Léclapart |
Grape | Muscadelle, Palomino |
Biological certified | No |
Natural wine | No |
Vegan | No |
Vintage | 2019 |
Drinking as of | 2022 |
Drinking till | 2029 |
Alcohol % | 14 |
Alcohol free/low | No |
Content | 0.75 ltr |
Oak aging | Yes |
Sparkling | No |
Dessert wine | No |
Closure | Cork |
Parker rating | 92 |
Tasting Profiles | Complex, Droog, Houtgerijpt, Krachtig, Strak, Vol, Wit fruit |
Drink moments | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden |
Professional Reviews
Parker
Rating
92
Release Price
$85
Drink Date
2019 - 2022
Reviewed by
Luis Gutiérrez
Issue Date
28th Jun 2019
Source
Issue 243 End of June 2019, The Wine Advocate
The 2017 Elixir is a new dry blend of Palomino and Moscatel grapes. The Palomino comes from old vines in Viña La Platera from Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on classical albariza soils, and the Moscatel comes from Viña Camino del Puerto in the Pago Abulagar in the village of Chipiona on sandy soils with some clay. There is 60% Palomino and 40% Moscatel, and it fermented in Bordeaux oak barrels with indigenous yeasts. It’s perfumed, clean, expressive and showy, with notes of orange blossom, white pepper and a salty twist. The palate is dry, serious, balanced, with focused flavors and a dry finish with a bitter twist. It’s very tasty, long and clean. 4,000 bottles were filled in May 2018.
Muchada-Léclapart is one of the most talked-about new projects in the Jerez region, as it gets together Spaniard Alejandro Muchada—who, together with the guys from Mahara and Fernando Angulo, was part of Alba Viticultores in Jerez, one of the seminal projects in the zone—and Champagne superstar David Léclapart. Even though Alba and, of course, Léclapart are known for their sparkling wines, they are producing only still white wines, at least for now.
You might see a sparkling wine called Fugaz in the market, but it was really from Muchada on his own. The 2016s are also somehow experimental, and the first true vintage was 2017. The wines are very different. The 2016s hit the market in Spain and some are a bit disappointing, or at least what you’d expect based on what some merchants were saying about the wines. I think this is only the beginning of the project and potential is high, but they are still learning about their vineyards, and the wines should get better in the following years. There was already a big change between 2016 and 2017.
Focus is very much on viticulture. They have three hectares of vineyards that they have worked biodynamically from the first day. They only vinify grapes from their own vineyards. They work the soils and plow, mainly with the help of animals, and they use cover crops and work toward bringing the soils back to life and reducing yields. They use natural products, like silica, clay powder and kaolin, and plants, such as horsetail, yarrow or nettle.
The work in the winery is similar for all the wines: They tend to harvest one week before the rest of the Sanlúcar harvest (where their vineyards are), and the full clusters are pressed immediately in a vertical press, then the juice is let to settle overnight and ferments the day after with indigenous yeasts. The wines are kept with lees for some nine months, after which they are bottled unfiltered and unfined, but they already plan on some small adjustments/experiments with the fining for the bottling of the 2018.
This is pretty much a work in progress in a style of wine that should soon be included in the Jerez appellation as unfortified white wine.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
95
Published in Wineanorak.com (November, 2020)
Jamie Goode is one of the most appreciated wine journalists globally, with very direct communication. In one of his articles on his Wineanorak blog, published in November 2020, he dedicates several paragraphs to our project, stating “Muchada-Léclapart is based in the country of sherry, but makes still wines. And they are really good. ”
We share your tasting notes for our 2018 vintage:
Lumière 2018
Such concentration here with a lovely mineral streak and notes of crystalline lemons, a slight salinity, and a bright acid line under everything. Has great concentration and precision. Layers of flavour here with great precision and purity. Really beautiful showing purity and minerality. 96 points
Elixir 2018
Astonishing nose of table grapes and lemons with lots of personality. The palate is concentrated and fresh with a lovely acid line, showing minerals, spice, lemons and spice. Such a multimensional wine that’s playful on the nose but serious on the palate. Quite brilliant. 95 points
Jancis Robinson is perhaps the most followed wine journalist in the world. Last June 2020, she dedicated an article to the cult wines of the future, in which she placed Muchada-Léclapart. “Wines can go from bargain to extravagance remarkably quickly. I put my head in the past and suggest some future cult wines ”. So began Jancis Robinson’s article, published in the Financial Times weekend, in June 2020, where she indicates the possible cult wines for the coming years. And in the first place, she nominated Muchada-Léclapart, valuing its commitment to the soul of the Jerez area.
Jancis begins by recalling her trips to Bordeaux in the 90s discovering wines like Le Pin or the first time she tasted Sassicaia from Tuscany in the 70s. Wines that were affordable at that time and that in a few years became inaccessible for the majority.
And then she writes: “I would like to name the Andalusian wines of Muchada-Léclapart to begin with, appropriate enough because their wines, effectively unfortified white wines from a single superior sherry vineyard, make the most exceptional aperitifs, as well as having an adequate alcoholic strength (only 12.5% alcohol) to drink with food ”. Published on her website and in the Financial Times (June, 2020)
Elixir 2018 - Julia Harding. Master of Wine (England)
Pale lemon colour and very slightly cloudy. This has even more jasmine than the Lumière but also the grapey/floral note of Muscat, though here it is subtle and entwined with a light saltiness. On the palate, there’s light spice, orange pith, apricot, and yet it is totally and deliciously dry with a dry, stony, grippy texture. Strangely it seems to close up as it breathes in the glass, losing some of those more obvious aromas derived from the varieties and becoming more mineral and stony. There are firm signs of the lees work: creamy and yet smelling of grainy pears. There’s almost a hint of a herbal spice a bit like curry leaf. The acidity is more marked than I expected, perhaps because it contrasts with the more scented flavours. Here the freshness seems to come more from acidity than from salty minerality. Still utterly complex and delicious. Real wine, like all these from Muchada-Léclapart. Amazing length and unusual to find a wine that has the scented accent of the variety and yet so much vineyard expression. (JH) 2020-2022 17/20 points
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
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Wijnhuis
Alejandro Muchada comes from Cadiz and got the wine bug during the harvest of champagne house Léclapart. This resulted in a biodynamic approach to the albariza when they returned home to Sanlucar de Barrameda. Still wines based on palomino and moscatel without mutage (strengthening with alcohol, which is usual for sherry). Wines that are special, one by one, not filtered, nor aged with flor, and all come from certain plots. Alejandro and David own a total of 3 hectares that are biodynamically processed. In total, 5 wines are made here, namely the Univers, Lumiere, Elixir, 2toile and Vibrations.
After a very short period, Muchada-Léclapart is already the white cult wine from Spain! each with a high rating from the international wine press:
decanter
Sarah Jeans Evans. Master of Wine (England)
source: muchada-leclapart.com
SPANISH WINE IN 2021: TOP TRENDS AND THE 10 BOTTLES WORTH SEEKING OUT
Published in Decanter.com (January, 2021)
Sarah Jeans Evans, Master of Wine and one of the most expert journalists on Spanish wines, highlights ten wines and the new trends for the most prestigious magazine in the world of wine: Decanter. Among them, Lumière 2018 was selected and valued with 95 points.
We share the tasting notes for Lumière 2018
“Not sherry but a wine from the growing group of still wines made in the sherry zone. The soil is classic Miraflores albariza, the variety Palomino, 60 years old. The bonus is that without the usual influence of flor or solera you can taste the terroir. The partners Alejandro Muchada and the Champagne producer David Léclapart have conjured a delicately honeyed wine with drifts of jasmine and a clean, saline finish. The wines is made in three years old Bordeaux barrels, which add texture but don´t interfere with the clarity of flavour. Biodynamically farmed”. 95 points
Financial Times
Jancis Robinson. Master of Wine (England)
source: mastersofwine.org
“STARS OF TOMORROW?” Future cult wines!
Published on its website and in the Financial Times (June, 2020)
Jancis Robinson is perhaps the most followed wine journalist in the world. Last June 2020, she dedicated an article to the cult wines of the future, in which she placed Muchada-Léclapart. “Wines can go from bargain to extravagance remarkably quickly. I put my head in the past and suggest some future cult wines”. So began Jancis Robinson's article, published in the Financial Times weekend, in June 2020, where she indicates the possible cult wines for the coming years. And in the first place, she nominated Muchada-Léclapart, valuing its commitment to the soul of the Jerez area.
Jancis begins by recalling her trips to Bordeaux in the 90s discovering wines like Le Pin or the first time she tasted Sassicaia from Tuscany in the 70s. Wines that were affordable at that time and that in a few years became inaccessible for the majority.
And then she writes: “I would like to name the Andalusian wines of Muchada-Léclapart to begin with, appropriate enough because their wines, effectively unfortified white wines from a single superior sherry vineyard, make the most exceptional aperitifs, as well as having an adequate alcoholic strength (only 12.5% alcohol) to drink with food”.
Luis Gutierrez – Robert Parker – (Spain)
Tasting notes published on RobertParker.com (June 2019)
Luis Gutierrez is one of the greatest wine experts in Spain; founder of the famous mundovino blog, he is currently responsible for Robert Parker in Spain, Jura, Argentina and Chile. We share the tasting notes of the first vintage of Muchada-Léclapart: 2017, where his valuation of Lumière stands out - a wine he compares with those of Jean-François Ganevat, the fashionable vigneron of the French Jura.
Lumiere 2017
I loved the 2017 Lumière, a white Palomino from old vines in the La Platera vineyard in Pago Miraflores that somehow made me think of the white topped-up wines from Jean-François Ganevat in the Jura. It was aromatic and open, very expressive and a bit funky, with faint spices and a touch of clove, but with a superb palate, round and balanced. It felt very harmonious and complex, with ever-changing notes of quince, decayed white flowers, white pepper and some sea breeze. The mouthfeel and texture were dry and chalky, and the finish was long and extremely tasty. This was vinified in well-seasoned Bordeaux barrels, yet it had no aromas or flavors of oak. 94 points
Elixir 2017
The 2017 Elixir is a new dry blend of Palomino and Moscatel grapes. The Paomino comes from old vines in Viña La Platera from Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on classical albariza soils and the Moscatel comes from Viña Camino del puerto in the Pago Abulagar in the village of Chipiona on sandy soils with some clay. There is 60% Palomino and 40% Moscatel, fermented in Bordeaux oak barrels with indigenous yeasts. It's perfumed, clean, expressive and showy, with notes of orange blossom, white pepper and a salty twist. The palat
The new Cult wines of Spain, that's how we can call the wines of Alejandro Muchada because the international wine press is unanimously enthusiastic about these wines.
Alejandro Muchada had little affinity for wine in his student days. Alejandro Muchada comes from Cadiz and had little affinity with wine in his student days, but caught the wine bug. The name David Léclapart meant nothing to him when he met him by chance during a tour of France and decided to help during the harvest of champagne house Léclapart. That summer was the start of a journey of discovery within biodynamics and becoming a 'vigneron'.
All this resulted in a biodynamic approach to the albariza when coming home to Sanlucar de Barrameda. Still wines based on palomino and moscatel without mutage (strengthening with alcohol which is usual for sherry). Wines that are one by one special, neither filtered nor aged with flor and all come from certain plots. In total, Alejandro and David own 3 hectares that are biodynamically farmed.
The Elixir is a new dry blend of Palomino and Moscatel grapes. The Palomino comes from old vines in Viña La Platera of Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on classic albariza soils, and the Moscatel comes from Viña Camino del Puerto in the Pago Abulagar in the village of Chipiona on sandy soils with some clay. There is 60% Palomino and 40% Moscatel, and it is fermented in Bordeaux oak barrels with native yeasts. Small yields of 1500 to 2500 liters per hectare, very unusual for this region. Fermentation and aging in old Bordelese barrels. Spontaneous fermentation without intervention or intervention and minimal addition of sulfites. The wines are bottled unfiltered and without cold stabilization.
The Elixir has a light color with some cloudiness in the glass. It is perfumed, clean, expressive and showy, with notes of orange blossom, white pepper and a salty/silty twist. The taste is dry, serious, balanced, with focused flavors and a dry finish with a bitter twist. With waltzes comes even more complexity and nuances. Very surprising and pleasant. Amazing length. Big! Around 4000 bottles are made.
FACT FACT: Alejandro Muchada recommends letting the bottles rest for 2 weeks after delivery and only then opening them. Once the wine is open, it changes over time and becomes even more complex after a few days. Very remarkable!
Type of Wine | White |
---|---|
Country | Spain |
Region | Andalucía |
Winery | Muchada-Léclapart |
Grape | Muscadelle, Palomino |
Biological certified | No |
Natural wine | No |
Vegan | No |
Vintage | 2019 |
Drinking as of | 2022 |
Drinking till | 2029 |
Alcohol % | 14 |
Alcohol free/low | No |
Content | 0.75 ltr |
Oak aging | Yes |
Sparkling | No |
Dessert wine | No |
Closure | Cork |
Parker rating | 92 |
Tasting Profiles | Complex, Droog, Houtgerijpt, Krachtig, Strak, Vol, Wit fruit |
Drink moments | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden |
Parker
Rating
92
Release Price
$85
Drink Date
2019 - 2022
Reviewed by
Luis Gutiérrez
Issue Date
28th Jun 2019
Source
Issue 243 End of June 2019, The Wine Advocate
The 2017 Elixir is a new dry blend of Palomino and Moscatel grapes. The Palomino comes from old vines in Viña La Platera from Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on classical albariza soils, and the Moscatel comes from Viña Camino del Puerto in the Pago Abulagar in the village of Chipiona on sandy soils with some clay. There is 60% Palomino and 40% Moscatel, and it fermented in Bordeaux oak barrels with indigenous yeasts. It’s perfumed, clean, expressive and showy, with notes of orange blossom, white pepper and a salty twist. The palate is dry, serious, balanced, with focused flavors and a dry finish with a bitter twist. It’s very tasty, long and clean. 4,000 bottles were filled in May 2018.
Muchada-Léclapart is one of the most talked-about new projects in the Jerez region, as it gets together Spaniard Alejandro Muchada—who, together with the guys from Mahara and Fernando Angulo, was part of Alba Viticultores in Jerez, one of the seminal projects in the zone—and Champagne superstar David Léclapart. Even though Alba and, of course, Léclapart are known for their sparkling wines, they are producing only still white wines, at least for now.
You might see a sparkling wine called Fugaz in the market, but it was really from Muchada on his own. The 2016s are also somehow experimental, and the first true vintage was 2017. The wines are very different. The 2016s hit the market in Spain and some are a bit disappointing, or at least what you’d expect based on what some merchants were saying about the wines. I think this is only the beginning of the project and potential is high, but they are still learning about their vineyards, and the wines should get better in the following years. There was already a big change between 2016 and 2017.
Focus is very much on viticulture. They have three hectares of vineyards that they have worked biodynamically from the first day. They only vinify grapes from their own vineyards. They work the soils and plow, mainly with the help of animals, and they use cover crops and work toward bringing the soils back to life and reducing yields. They use natural products, like silica, clay powder and kaolin, and plants, such as horsetail, yarrow or nettle.
The work in the winery is similar for all the wines: They tend to harvest one week before the rest of the Sanlúcar harvest (where their vineyards are), and the full clusters are pressed immediately in a vertical press, then the juice is let to settle overnight and ferments the day after with indigenous yeasts. The wines are kept with lees for some nine months, after which they are bottled unfiltered and unfined, but they already plan on some small adjustments/experiments with the fining for the bottling of the 2018.
This is pretty much a work in progress in a style of wine that should soon be included in the Jerez appellation as unfortified white wine.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
95
Published in Wineanorak.com (November, 2020)
Jamie Goode is one of the most appreciated wine journalists globally, with very direct communication. In one of his articles on his Wineanorak blog, published in November 2020, he dedicates several paragraphs to our project, stating “Muchada-Léclapart is based in the country of sherry, but makes still wines. And they are really good. ”
We share your tasting notes for our 2018 vintage:
Lumière 2018
Such concentration here with a lovely mineral streak and notes of crystalline lemons, a slight salinity, and a bright acid line under everything. Has great concentration and precision. Layers of flavour here with great precision and purity. Really beautiful showing purity and minerality. 96 points
Elixir 2018
Astonishing nose of table grapes and lemons with lots of personality. The palate is concentrated and fresh with a lovely acid line, showing minerals, spice, lemons and spice. Such a multimensional wine that’s playful on the nose but serious on the palate. Quite brilliant. 95 points
Jancis Robinson is perhaps the most followed wine journalist in the world. Last June 2020, she dedicated an article to the cult wines of the future, in which she placed Muchada-Léclapart. “Wines can go from bargain to extravagance remarkably quickly. I put my head in the past and suggest some future cult wines ”. So began Jancis Robinson’s article, published in the Financial Times weekend, in June 2020, where she indicates the possible cult wines for the coming years. And in the first place, she nominated Muchada-Léclapart, valuing its commitment to the soul of the Jerez area.
Jancis begins by recalling her trips to Bordeaux in the 90s discovering wines like Le Pin or the first time she tasted Sassicaia from Tuscany in the 70s. Wines that were affordable at that time and that in a few years became inaccessible for the majority.
And then she writes: “I would like to name the Andalusian wines of Muchada-Léclapart to begin with, appropriate enough because their wines, effectively unfortified white wines from a single superior sherry vineyard, make the most exceptional aperitifs, as well as having an adequate alcoholic strength (only 12.5% alcohol) to drink with food ”. Published on her website and in the Financial Times (June, 2020)
Elixir 2018 - Julia Harding. Master of Wine (England)
Pale lemon colour and very slightly cloudy. This has even more jasmine than the Lumière but also the grapey/floral note of Muscat, though here it is subtle and entwined with a light saltiness. On the palate, there’s light spice, orange pith, apricot, and yet it is totally and deliciously dry with a dry, stony, grippy texture. Strangely it seems to close up as it breathes in the glass, losing some of those more obvious aromas derived from the varieties and becoming more mineral and stony. There are firm signs of the lees work: creamy and yet smelling of grainy pears. There’s almost a hint of a herbal spice a bit like curry leaf. The acidity is more marked than I expected, perhaps because it contrasts with the more scented flavours. Here the freshness seems to come more from acidity than from salty minerality. Still utterly complex and delicious. Real wine, like all these from Muchada-Léclapart. Amazing length and unusual to find a wine that has the scented accent of the variety and yet so much vineyard expression. (JH) 2020-2022 17/20 points
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Exclusive Content
Sign in to unlock professional wine reviews from world-renowned critics
Alejandro Muchada comes from Cadiz and got the wine bug during the harvest of champagne house Léclapart. This resulted in a biodynamic approach to the albariza when they returned home to Sanlucar de Barrameda. Still wines based on palomino and moscatel without mutage (strengthening with alcohol, which is usual for sherry). Wines that are special, one by one, not filtered, nor aged with flor, and all come from certain plots. Alejandro and David own a total of 3 hectares that are biodynamically processed. In total, 5 wines are made here, namely the Univers, Lumiere, Elixir, 2toile and Vibrations.
After a very short period, Muchada-Léclapart is already the white cult wine from Spain! each with a high rating from the international wine press:
decanter
Sarah Jeans Evans. Master of Wine (England)
source: muchada-leclapart.com
SPANISH WINE IN 2021: TOP TRENDS AND THE 10 BOTTLES WORTH SEEKING OUT
Published in Decanter.com (January, 2021)
Sarah Jeans Evans, Master of Wine and one of the most expert journalists on Spanish wines, highlights ten wines and the new trends for the most prestigious magazine in the world of wine: Decanter. Among them, Lumière 2018 was selected and valued with 95 points.
We share the tasting notes for Lumière 2018
“Not sherry but a wine from the growing group of still wines made in the sherry zone. The soil is classic Miraflores albariza, the variety Palomino, 60 years old. The bonus is that without the usual influence of flor or solera you can taste the terroir. The partners Alejandro Muchada and the Champagne producer David Léclapart have conjured a delicately honeyed wine with drifts of jasmine and a clean, saline finish. The wines is made in three years old Bordeaux barrels, which add texture but don´t interfere with the clarity of flavour. Biodynamically farmed”. 95 points
Financial Times
Jancis Robinson. Master of Wine (England)
source: mastersofwine.org
“STARS OF TOMORROW?” Future cult wines!
Published on its website and in the Financial Times (June, 2020)
Jancis Robinson is perhaps the most followed wine journalist in the world. Last June 2020, she dedicated an article to the cult wines of the future, in which she placed Muchada-Léclapart. “Wines can go from bargain to extravagance remarkably quickly. I put my head in the past and suggest some future cult wines”. So began Jancis Robinson's article, published in the Financial Times weekend, in June 2020, where she indicates the possible cult wines for the coming years. And in the first place, she nominated Muchada-Léclapart, valuing its commitment to the soul of the Jerez area.
Jancis begins by recalling her trips to Bordeaux in the 90s discovering wines like Le Pin or the first time she tasted Sassicaia from Tuscany in the 70s. Wines that were affordable at that time and that in a few years became inaccessible for the majority.
And then she writes: “I would like to name the Andalusian wines of Muchada-Léclapart to begin with, appropriate enough because their wines, effectively unfortified white wines from a single superior sherry vineyard, make the most exceptional aperitifs, as well as having an adequate alcoholic strength (only 12.5% alcohol) to drink with food”.
Luis Gutierrez – Robert Parker – (Spain)
Tasting notes published on RobertParker.com (June 2019)
Luis Gutierrez is one of the greatest wine experts in Spain; founder of the famous mundovino blog, he is currently responsible for Robert Parker in Spain, Jura, Argentina and Chile. We share the tasting notes of the first vintage of Muchada-Léclapart: 2017, where his valuation of Lumière stands out - a wine he compares with those of Jean-François Ganevat, the fashionable vigneron of the French Jura.
Lumiere 2017
I loved the 2017 Lumière, a white Palomino from old vines in the La Platera vineyard in Pago Miraflores that somehow made me think of the white topped-up wines from Jean-François Ganevat in the Jura. It was aromatic and open, very expressive and a bit funky, with faint spices and a touch of clove, but with a superb palate, round and balanced. It felt very harmonious and complex, with ever-changing notes of quince, decayed white flowers, white pepper and some sea breeze. The mouthfeel and texture were dry and chalky, and the finish was long and extremely tasty. This was vinified in well-seasoned Bordeaux barrels, yet it had no aromas or flavors of oak. 94 points
Elixir 2017
The 2017 Elixir is a new dry blend of Palomino and Moscatel grapes. The Paomino comes from old vines in Viña La Platera from Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on classical albariza soils and the Moscatel comes from Viña Camino del puerto in the Pago Abulagar in the village of Chipiona on sandy soils with some clay. There is 60% Palomino and 40% Moscatel, fermented in Bordeaux oak barrels with indigenous yeasts. It's perfumed, clean, expressive and showy, with notes of orange blossom, white pepper and a salty twist. The palat