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2021 Pieropan Soave Classico DOC BIO
2021 Inama Soave Classico Vin Soave
Soave's recent history of overproduction and disappointing results begins to fade as one reaches the Classico level. These wines are made exclusively in the traditional production areas of Soave, with locations mainly on hills around the village of Soave, and with a significantly smaller production than most regular Soave. A blend of at least 70% Garganega, Soave Classico shows off the spicy acidity, round texture, aromatics and mineral notes of the wine, but with versatility thanks to the diverse, mostly volcanic soils of the hilly region.
Soave Classico has no official classification, but it does have about fifty recognized Cru's, hills that produce the best quality wine. There are many, in fact all the hills of the area, so Cru's status in itself says little. It is only when you see where the best producers have their main vineyards that you get an idea of what the best Cru's are. This certainly includes the central hills such as Frosca, Foscarino, Carbonare, Calvarino and Rugate, but also La Rocca, which is located near Soave. All of these Cru's are directly linked to the area's top producers. For example, Gini's top wine comes from Frosca (Soave Classico La Froscà), Suavia is almost synonymous with Carbonare (Soave Classico Monte Carbonare), Prà stands for Monte Grande and at Ca 'Rugate it speaks for itself (Monte Fiorentine is part of the rather large Cru Rugate). Foscarino is largely owned by Inama (he makes his Soave Classico Vigneti di Foscarino and Soave Classico Vigneto du Lot), but Anselmi also has plots there. Still, Anselmi is best known for its superb Capitel Croce from the Santa Croce Hill, a solidly re-wooded, 100 percent garganega wine, which could and should simply be called Soave Classico. Perhaps the highest rated Soave Classico wines come from Pieropan, from the Cru's Calvarino and La Rocca, once described as the violin and piano of the Soave Classico orchestra. La Rocca is a special vineyard. It is adjacent to Soave, is completely fenced and the clay and limestone soil is more like that of Valpolicella than that of Soave Classico. The very late harvested garganega grapes from these vineyards provide the area's most renowned wine.
The miracle of good Soave Classico arises, as in all other special wine regions, from the ultimate interplay between grape variety and terroir, with a modest but intelligent role for man. And that interplay is very important here, because it is far from self-evident that a warm area like western Veneto produces fresh, aromatic rich and mineral white wine. The dark, porous volcanic soils of Soave Classico heat up quickly, also because water sinks deep into it. The roots of the vine plants must and can root very deeply in search of water, where they absorb many minerals. Garganega ripens late, as said. This has the advantage that the grapes can ripen nicely aromatically, but the disadvantage is that the acidity can be a bit low. But the freshness of Soave Classico comes not so much from the acids, but from the minerality, which can give a subtly salty aftertaste. The aroma is also unique: above all, it is a complex blend of all kinds of floral notes, such as those of acacia, elderberry and almond blossoms, and of wild white wild flowers such as chamomile. The taste can be fruity, candied or slightly sweet, depending on the ripeness and upbringing, often with some almond bitter in the aftertaste in addition to the salty minerality. When everything comes together perfectly, Soave Classico is a wine that can compete with the greatest white wines in the world not only in terms of authenticity, but also in terms of taste balance.
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