2015 Palari Rosso del Soprano

The owner of the prestigious Palari is Salvatore Geraci. Salvatore is a passionate winemaker who produces a limited number of bottles in Eastern Sicily. He has rediscovered the ancient Faro wine from the Sicilian tradition and is known as an iconic winemaker. His philosophy is to make the highest quality wines that represent the essence of Sicily with the allure of the Burgundy wines. Located in the smaller Faro DOC, Palari extends over approximately 7 hectares on the hills above the Strait of Messina. The Palari domain is the most famous name within the miniscule DOC Faro, which contains only 21 hectares of vineyards, spread over 17 domains in the northern tip of Sicily, near Messina. In 1985 Salvatore Geraci, owner of Azienda Agricola Palari, bought a number of vineyards, with the ambition to place the name Faro on the list of great Italian wines. He was and still is the source of this appellation. The domain extends over 6 hectares and also features 1.5 hectares in the DOC Faro. The rest falls under the new DOC Sicilia.

The vineyards are high (600 meters above sea level) are stone terraces with steep slopes - the linear distance to the sea is 1.5 km. Terroir is seaside and the ground is mainly made of limestone with clay - the land is guided naturally from the start. The harvest is completely manual with a bizarrely low yield of less than 30 ql / ha.

The wines of Palari belong to the absolute top of Sicily. In all cases, work is done organically. The vines are planted separately (ie unguided) on the very steep slopes. Yields are low and everything is done manually. Modern techniques and the very best French oak barrels are used in the cellar, although less new wood has been used in recent years to let the fruit speak as much as possible.

There is no rush at Palari and everything is given time. The top models often remain on the domain for 5-6 years before they become available (slightly) and without exception the wines can age very nicely.

The Rosso del Soprano is made from the same grapes as the iconic Faro Palari but with less aging. The Rosso del Soprano is a blend of Nerello Mascalese 65%, Nerello Cappuccio 15%, Nocera 15% plus Acitana, Galatena, Jacché, Cor'e palumba 5%. Picking is done manually and the (old) vineyard contains all these grape varieties. This (old) principle of many grape varieties in one vineyard is on the rise again at (only) high-end wineries. The variety of different grapes ensures a very healthy vineyard and a much better bio-diversity but requires manual picking and is therefore not suitable for the mass producers. The fermentation takes place with native yeasts. The wine is aged in French oak (Tronçais and Allier) for a minimum of 18 months and then aged in the bottle in the impressive cellar of Palari for another 18 months before the Soprano hits the market. The maximum production is only 16,000 bottles. They work organically and there is no filtration or stabilization of the wine.

In the glass, Rosso del Soprano is ruby with notes of honeysuckle and Granny Smith apple on the nose. The green apple aroma continues to the spicy palate. The bouquet is further laced with blue fruit, cassis, resin, grilled herbs and aniseed. There is a lot of Sicilian character in it. After some oxygen, several layers of herbs, leather, tar and resin are released, making this wine very attractive and also complex. The wine is a bit like the Sicilians with a very soft side but also wild side which makes this a fantastic glass of wine.

The wine receives unanimously high reviews and the feedback from Monica Larner (Wine-advocate review Italy for Parker) is very complimentary: " The Rosso del Soprano is a wine that I often drink, especially when I'm looking for an elegant, mid -weight red that has the natural power to cut through foods heavy with cheese or cream.."

Just a sampling of the review

Wine Enthusiast. Rating: 95 (2015) by Kerin O'Keefe

Aromas of honeysuckle and Granny Smith apple jump out of the glass. The green apple aroma carries on to the racy palate together with lemon zest and yellow peach. A vibrant perlage provides the backdrop.

Robert Parker. Rating: 93+ (2014)

The 2014 Rosso del Soprano is a wine that I often drink, especially when I'm looking for an elegant, mid-weight red that has the natural power to cut through foods heavy with cheese or cream. The bouquet is laced with blue fruit, cassis, resin, grilled herb and anise seed. There is a lot of Sicilian character in this unusual blend of (….) grapes.

Robert Parker. Rating: 92 (2012)

The 2012 Rosso del Soprano is slightly softer and plusher compared to the previous vintage. This was a warm growing season in Sicily and the vines reached quick maturity. As a result, you gain a clear view onto wild berry, red currant, and boysenberry aromas. At the back, spice, leather, tar and resin add to the wine's appeal and its complexity. I like the softer approach presented here, together with the wild side of the indigenous gapes represented. It offers an authentic taste of Mediterranean winemaking with lots of personality that will appeal to those looking for offbeat flavors.

Robert Parker. Rating: 91 (2011)

The 2011 Rosso del Soprano shows the straight lines and delineated approach that makes the wines of Palari so popular. Like the other wines from this estate, this Rosso del Soprano shows a fiery and wild side. It is a wine of character, determination and long lasting impressions. In most cases, either you love it or you don't. Whatever your preference, there is no doubting the authenticity of a wine like this. This vintage delivers warm tones of cherry and black berry, but it also shows a prickly side with resin, dill and licorice. Smoke and graphite appear on the finish.  

Robert Parker. Rating: 93 (2010)

The 2010 Rosso del Soprano is a distinguished red wine that is only at the beginning of its evolutionary path. Young and tight, it opens to a bright garnet color with rustic tones of bramble, forest floor, licorice and white truffle. The acidic vein of the wine is also very apparent and important to the overall integrity and age-worthiness of the wine.

Robert Parker. Rating: 95 (2006)

Tasted from a magnum, the 2006 Rosso del Soprano opens to earthy tones of forest floor and used leather backed by elegant tones of pressed cherry and creme de cassis. Rosso del Soprano is one of the greatest achievements of the Messina area in the northern tip of Sicily and the 2006 vintage is showing beautifully at this point in its evolution. I'd give it another five years or more to go. There's an ethereal elegance here that really sets it apart from its peers.