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2017 Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Alvarinho

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2017 Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Alvarinho

€ 13,30
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Availability:
Wijnsoort: Wit
Druif:
Inhoud fles: 0.75 ltr
Land: Portugal
Streek:
Wijnhuis: Anselmo Mendes
Jaar: 2017
Drinken: 2018-2025
Bubbels: Zonder Bubbels
Biologisch: Niet Biologisch
Duurzaam: Niet Duurzaam
Alcohol: 12.5%
Smaaktype: Droog verfijnd en complex
Datum :
Dit Product verwachten we op de aangeven datum in ons magazijn. U kunt deze wel al bestellen zodat u zeker bent van uw bestelling maar mocht u meer bestellen dan zullen we pas versturen wanneer de volledige bestelling gereed is
Rating: 90

Dit product als geschenk versturen in mooie verpakking?

Dit is natuurlijk een van de paradepaardjes van Anselmo Mendes, de 100% alvarinho uit Monção e Melgaço. Het bijzondere van dit deel van Vinho Verde is dat het omringd is door vrij hoge bergen, waardoor het meer beschut ligt tegen Atlantische invloeden. Deze warmte en minder regen zijn ideaal om de alvarinho perfect te laten rijpen. De druiven voor deze wijn staan aangeplant op de beste ondergronden, op zonnige hellingen met een arme bodem van verweerd graniet. Dat levert een mineralige wijn op, met body en kracht, maar tegelijk een prachtige frisheid. De wijn wordt gemaakt door directe persing van de ontsteelde druiven. Daarna volgt een lange gisting op een temperatuur tussen de 14 ºC to 20 ºC. Hij krijgt extra rijkdom en structuur door nog eens minimaal zes maanden te rijpen op de fijne lie, de dode gistcellen, die extra smaakstoffen aan de wijn afstaan. In het glas is de wijn de helder strogeel. In de neus heeft deze Alvarinho van Anselmo Mendes mooie tonen van tropisch fruit, mango, bloemen en appel, vleugje grapefruit. In de mond is de wijn zacht en smaakvol, weelderig en opwekkend, gele pruimen, mooie zuren, krachtig, fris en mineralig. 

90/100 Parker

Lekker aperitief, goede combinatie met kalkoen, kipsalade, gerookte zalm, garnalencocktail.
Rating: 90


 Rating
90

Release Price
$20

Drink Date
2018 - 2026

Reviewed by
Mark Squires
Issue Date
29th Jun 2018
Source
237, The Wine Advocate

The 2017 Alvarinho Muros Antigos comes in at 13% alcohol. Concentrated, but not overly expressive just now, this is a solid Alvarinho that just seems a bit lacking compared to some recent examples of late. It opened a bit stolid, especially when tasted next to its Contacto sibling this issue. I suspect that is more because it was very unevolved and closed than because it is actually lacking. This might actually be the better wine. Remember that you are dealing with a serious white here, not a stereotypical Vinho Verde. So, we talk in terms of development and aging, not just "drink me now." As I came back to it, as it had aired out and warmed up, it suddenly showed superb tension on the finish to go with its very nice concentration for this level. This ultimately seemed impressive. Will it continue to evolve? Let's be a little conservative right now. It will certainly show better at the end of this summer than at the beginning. In the meanwhile, you can hardly go wrong at the modest price.

Anselmo Mendes, one of the flagship wineries in making real wines in Vinho Verde, has nothing here that contains fizz, of course. The new 2017s are rolling out. They are all dry, normal table wines. There are a lot of oaked 2016s here as well. (If I don't always say "unoaked" when applicable, I always specify if there IS oak in the tasting note.) The main importer here is Grape2Grape, but Aidil mostly handles the Muros line.

Here is the vintage report from the winery: "2017 was an exceptionally dry year, drier than 2016, especially during the winter. In January, the precipitation was one third of the one from 2016, and in February, it rained half of what it had rained in 2016. The average temperature was much higher than the average for the last 20 years, which lead to an early budding and a very early flowering and veraison. The lack of water in the soil and the high temperatures that were felt throughout the summer brought the sugar levels to their ideal point well ahead of schedule, forcing producers to start harvesting long before the normal harvesting period. If last year we started in the middle of September, this year we had to start on the 4th to ensure that we would achieve the alcohol and acidity we wanted for the wines. Fortunately, we had some precipitation in July and August which provided much-needed stability in the plants, ensuring in the end some interesting balance between acidity and alcohol, which in terms of the wine profile lead to wines with great volume, structure and freshness. The 2017 harvest was perfect in terms of sanitary conditions with no rot, high levels of sugar (some dehydration) and total acidity slightly below with an average production (in terms of volume). Since 2015, all harvests have points in common: some rain during the vegetative cycle and, above all, a residual rain during the month of September, which resulted in wines of excellent quality. When everyone was praising 2015 as one the top quality vintages, 2016 and 2017 surprised us all with their concentration without losing elegance and longevity."

For my part, I haven't a final answer to 2017 yet—we have yet to see many of the high-end 2017s. They look good but not as good as 2015. At the moment, I'd say they are a step behind 2016 too. So, for the moment, I disagree. Concentration is not the issue, although I've certainly seem some that were not as concentrated. It is more an issue of the verve and freshness and the overall balance. A vintage like 2010 produced fine concentration, but that is not always the key issue in the region. It's Vinho Verde, not Port. It didn't seem as interesting in terms of acidity—which is why Mendes, the last time I spoke with him, indicated to me that he didn't think 2010 was as good as some competitors we were tasting. So far, I like the balance in 2015 much better.

The verdict is mostly in for 2016. I think 2016 is clearly a step or two behind 2015. That's not to say that at certain properties they weren't as good (or better). You could make excellent wine in 2016. However, the vintage overall in 2016 is more inconsistent. Also, I liked the verve coupled with concentration more in 2015—the overall balance between fruit and acidity. Just on consistency, though, the 2015 vintage seems to win. Of course, if you read my recent article on the absurdity of vintage charts, that's a broad generalization that probably doesn't matter much in individual circumstances. There were surely plenty of terrific 2016s, particularly including at Anselmo Mendes. It may have been more of a winemaker's vintage, as the saying goes.

Sometimes in the industry, we don't give enough credit to texture. We talk about flavor a lot, often using words no one understands, and structure (I really prefer to discuss structure). Yet texture is an underrated component. There are so many wines here that become sensual as they warm, thanks to the caressing texture—the 3 Rios, for one example, and the Alvarinho / Loureiro Pássaros Escolha for another. It makes the wine sophisticated, if I could put it that way, and it makes you think more about the finish. Mendes does a great job with texture.

Wijnsoort: Wit
Druif: Alvarinho
Inhoud fles: 0.75 ltr
Land: Portugal
Streek: Divers
Wijnhuis: Anselmo Mendes
Website URL:
Jaar: 2017
Drinken: 2018-2025
Bubbels: Zonder Bubbels
Dessertwijn: Nee
Biologisch: Niet Biologisch
Duurzaam: Niet Duurzaam
Alcohol: 12.5%
Smaaktype: Droog verfijnd en complex
Serveertemperatuur: 8-10
Afsluiting fles: Kurk
Drink-moment: Aperitief, Diner, Lunch
Inhoud verpakking: Doos
Opmerking verpakking:
Min. bestel hoeveelheid: 1
Datum :
Proefdoos: Nee

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