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2013 Domaine Ostertag Fronholz Gewürztraminer

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2013 Domaine Ostertag Fronholz Gewürztraminer

€ 38,95
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EAN: NO_EAN
Availability:
Wijnsoort: Wit
Druif:
Inhoud fles: 0.75 ltr
Land: Frankrijk
Streek:
Wijnhuis: Domaine Ostertag
Jaar: 2013
Drinken: 2017-2025
Bubbels: Zonder Bubbels
Biologisch: Biologisch
Duurzaam: Duurzaam
Alcohol: 12%
Smaaktype: Lichtzoet/zoet
Datum :
Dit Product verwachten we op de aangeven datum in ons magazijn. U kunt deze wel al bestellen zodat u zeker bent van uw bestelling maar mocht u meer bestellen dan zullen we pas versturen wanneer de volledige bestelling gereed is
Rating: 90

Dit product als geschenk versturen in mooie verpakking?

Dit is de volstrekt onweerstaanbare magie van de laat geoogste Fronholz-Gewurztraminer druiven. De uitbundige neus van Ostertag's Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive, is verrukkelijk kruidig en bloemig met een overdaad met tonen van salie, kweepeer jam, knolselderij, overrijpe muskus, meloen en lychee op een boterachtige smaak, wat leidt tot een ongegeneerd zoete afwerking. Minstens zo opzichtig is dan dat deze wijn ook nog uitermate fris smaakt en niet plakkerig of suikerig. Een krachtige dessertwijn welke bijna niet te overtreffen val - zeker niet bij blauwe schimmelkazen of fois gras. Een ongekend mooie dessertwijn welke volledig biologisch is verbouwd door een van de meest fameuze wijnmakers uit de Elzas. Het bewaarpotentieel is zoals vele van André Ostertag wijnen enorm.

Opgericht in 1966 door Adolphe OSTERTAG in de buurt van het plaatje Epfig (30 km van Straatsburg noordelijke). Andre OSTERTAG, de huidige directeur van het domein, heeft de Ostertag wijnen naar een ongekend hoog niveau gebracht en heeft gekozen voor het maken van compromisloze wijnen. Kwaliteit gaat voor alles. Bijna vanzelfsprekend wordt er door André ook bio-dynamisch gewerkt. Alleen het beste is goed genoeg. 


The 2010 harvest is just over now, and that vintage looks like none of the former 30 ones I have vinified so far. It is an old-fashioned vintage, I mean before global warming when we would harvest in October; a cool if not cold vintage, a bit like 1996 but, unlike some of the 1996’s, with very ripe flavor profiles. 2010 also looks like 2008 with almost the same harvesting dates and ripeness levels, while acidity is higher for the same alcohol level. But the main feature of the 2010 vintage for now are the low yields due to a very bad flowering. In fact, flowering was disturbed by very cold weather causing coulure and “hens and chickens”, especially on the Rieslings and Gewurztraminers! So we had to cut off loads of bunches and ended up with very little juice. 2010 will be engraved in the annals for its solid/liquid ratio, which is strongly in favor of skins and flesh at the expense of juice. The 2010s may then be well-structured wines with nice dry matter, indicating they may keep for a while.

 

Opgericht in 1966 door Adolphe OSTERTAG in de buurt van het plaatje Epfig (30 km van Straatsburg noordelijke). Andre OSTERTAG, de huidige directeur van het domein, heeft de Ostertag wijnen naar een ongekend hoog niveau gebracht en heeft gekozen voor het maken van compromisloze wijnen. Kwaliteit gaat voor alles. Bijna vanzelfsprekend wordt er door André ook bio-dynamisch gewerkt. Alleen het beste is goed genoeg.

De Ostertag  wijngaarden worden enerzijds verwend (kleine opbrengst, geen pesticiden, geen insecticiden en geen kunstmest). Anderzijds worden ze op de proef gesteld omdat de wortels diep moeten gaan en zonder de 'doping' van kunstmest en het comfort van chemicaliën de groeicyclus door moeten.

In slechts 50 jaar tijd zijn drie generaties van de familie Ostertag erin geslaagd om dit essentiële landgoed uit de Elzas naar het hoogste niveau te tillen. André Ostertag maakt wijnen die evolueren met hun tijd en hun bodem, evenwichtig, verteerbaar en stralend. 

Domaine Ostertag wijnen online bestellen bij Grandcruwijnen

Domaine Ostertag wijnen koopt u natuurlijk online bij Grandcruwijnen.nl, de wijnhandel met één van de grootste wijncollecties in Nederland en België, waar u zowel bijzondere wijnen als wijnen-voor-ieder-budget kunt bestellen. Kwaliteitsproducten, snelle levering & betrouwbare service dat is Grandcruwijnen!

Briljant als aperitief en als dessertwijn bij verfijnde bladerdeeg (mille feuilles) patisserie met gekonfijte vruchten en vanille-ijs. Blauwschimmelkazen (Stilton, Roquefort, Fourme d’Ambert), Rijpe Munster met komijn, Gorgonzola.
Rating: 90


Rating
90

Release Price
NA

Drink Date
2015 - 2020

Reviewed by
Stephan Reinhardt

Issue Date
30th Oct 2015

Source
221, The Wine Advocate

Due to climatic conditions and for quality reasons, there has been no Vendange Tardive produced from Gewurztraminer at Domaine Ostertag since the 2012 vintage. Since 2013 was a very late vintage and saw rainy periods during the harvest, the grapes were "far away" from the ripeness necessarily needed for a Vendange Tardive, so André decided to pick his Fronholz Gewurz even earlier than usual. Only for this reason, the 12% alcohol 2013 Gewürztraminer Fronholz has been bottled into the dark bottles, like the wines from the domaine's terroir range, whereas the overripe Vendange Tardive was usually filled into the clear bottles of the in-house vin de temps range. Sourced from the lowest part of the south-west facing slope, which usually gives a very elegant type of Gewürztraminer, the 2013 starts clear, rich and aromatic on the nose. Oily textured but with finesse, purity and a touch of lightness, this lovely sweet (54 grams per liter of residual sugar) and very well balanced Gewurz offers rather white fruit flavors along with a good minerality and a stimulating salinity in the aromatic finish. It should drink well over the next five years.

Unlike most of his colleagues, André Ostertag looks at the other side of the Rhine river – where Germany’s Baden wine region is located – as the other part of an entity. "We used to speak the same language like the Germans, and if we speak Alsatian today, most of them do understand us because it is the same language." André considers the Rhine as an "artificial border," whereas the Vosges de facto divide the Romance language from the Alemannic

Millions of years ago, the Vosges and the Black Forest on the other side of the Rhein used to be one and the same mountain range, before the Rhine rift came into existence and created a wide valley between what should once become France and Germany.

"Our colleagues in Baden and we have the same complexity of soils," says André, who doesn’t want to accept that this should be the only common ground. "We share the same culture, the same language," he says and mentions his father, whose natural language is German, not French. "Born in 1933, he knows to speak French but he speaks Alsatian dialect because this is his language." André, however, grew up speaking Alsatian; but speaking Alsatian in school after World War II was penalized. He had to learn French and of course he speaks French as his first language today. His own son, however, does neither speak Alsatian nor German, except he reads the wine labels of the family Domaine: Muenchberg, Fronholz, Heissenberg...

To André, who is the philosopher and poet under Alsace's vignerons, wine itself is a "language"' not only because wine "speaks" to all our senses, loosens the tongue, founds communities, is a "source of joy and knowledge like music, painting and literature," or "calls for our critical faculty, as well as our memory, and our memories." He also wants his wine to be "like a drink that raises the soul to new heights and satisfies the body and mind." Wines from the Domaine Ostertag shall "make people feel the poetry within the unique and wonderful character of our terroirs."

It is very clear that Ostertag spends most of his time in the vineyards, which have been farmed according to biodynamic principles since 1997. The fastidious work in his vineyards and a well-thought-out winemaking (handpicking in small boxes; no over-ripeness; slow and gentle pressings; stainless steel for reductive grapes, oak for Pinot; spontaneous fermentations; malolactic fermentation; long aging on the lees; perfectly dry wines and in certain vintages also sweet predicates) pushed this formerly unknown area onto the vineyard map.

The domaine, founded by Ostertag in Epfig in 1966, and thus free of traditions but with a great potential to develop its own style and to write its own history when his then 21 years old son André took the cellar keys in 1980, cultivates 14.5 hectares of vines spread over more than 100 plots and several villages in the lesser known part between Sélestat and Barr north of Colmar.
"Since we never had négociants such as Hugel, Trimbach or Léon Beyer in this area, nobody was talking about villages like Barr, Mittelbergheim, Andlau, Nothalten or Epfig; even so our grapes were always sought after," says André.

In fact, the territory between Sélestat and Barr is very special. The flowering is often five days behind Ribeauvillé and the grapes use to ripen more slowly and usually don’t reach that high sugar levels like further south. In the magic triangle between Ostertag, Julien Meyer and Kreydenweiss, there is not much limestone and the most interesting terroirs are made of sandstone and/or granite and gneiss, actually of schist and volcano sediments, which are rare in Alsace. These soils give very fresh and racy, rather floral and minerally scented than fruity wines of remarkable finesse and elegance. They are not as rich and powerful like many wines from Ribeauvillé, Riquewihr or the Kaysersberg valley, but they can age very well and never loose their vitality and delicacy.

Since these crystalline rock, sedimentary and sandstone soils are predestined for Riesling, this variety makes almost 50% of the total vineyard acreage that domaine Ostertag is cultivating. Gewurztraminer (always made in an off-dry and sometimes sweet VT style here) is the second important grape, then comes André’s pet grape Sylvaner (from the lowland clay, sand and pebble soils), then Pinot Gris (from the sandstone/limestone of the Muenchberg grand cru respectively the silicious, sandy and clayey soils of the Fronholz), Pinot Blanc and Muscat (sandy loam with quartz rocks).

But André Ostertag does not like to speak about grape varieties (except of Sylvaner, of course). "Geologically, Alsace is the most complex wine region of the world. It is a potpourri of highly diverse geological islands, but since World War II everybody reduces this complexity and sells grape varieties instead of the diversity of our terroirs." He does so too, yet, but already his Vins de fruit doesn’t reflect just the grape variety but also a certain style. Taste the barrel-fermented Pinot Blanc for example, which is quite unique in Alsace and much more than just a Crémant without bubbles. The Vins de pierres range clearly reflects the different terroirs, the lieux-dits Fronholz, Heissenberg, Zellberg and Clos Mathis, and is maybe only a question of time until André drops the variety names. The same can be said about the Muenchberg grands crus, although I don’t believe that Ostertag blends Pinot Gris with Riesling one day.

However, it is not just the climate, the grape and the terroir André Ostertag is talking about. It is also the personality of the vintner who is, he thinks, much more important than the Grand Cru and makes the wine region of Alsace so special. "You need to have a strong character as a vigneron in Alsace" who knows and appreciates the resulting diversity of styles. "Alsace is not a complicated, but a complex wine region," he says.

I highly recommend tasting the wines of the Domaine Ostertag: they are perfectly dry, straight and terroir-driven arguments against the stereotypes Alsatian wines have to fight against since so many years. Start with the Sylvaner and end cup with the Muenchberg crus of Riesling and Pinot Gris. Then compare the range with the ones of Patrick Meyer, Antoine Kreydenweiss, Jean-Michel and Mathieu Deiss, Marc Tempé, Olivier Humbrecht and Catherine and Theo Faller and find yourself not in a chaos but in a fascinatingly rich and complex world of highly diverse terroirs and vintner personalities.
Then, but only then, include the ranges of Rebholz, Christmann, and Keller, include some Pinot Noirs from Baden’s Bernhard Huber, Franz Keller and Dr. Heger and start to sing "What a Beautiful World."

Wijnsoort: Wit
Druif: Gewurztraminer
Inhoud fles: 0.75 ltr
Land: Frankrijk
Streek: Alsace
Wijnhuis: Domaine Ostertag
Website URL:
Jaar: 2013
Drinken: 2017-2025
Bubbels: Zonder Bubbels
Dessertwijn: Ja
Biologisch: Biologisch
Duurzaam: Duurzaam
Alcohol: 12%
Smaaktype: Lichtzoet/zoet
Serveertemperatuur: 8-10
Afsluiting fles: Kurk
Drink-moment: After-diner, Dessert, Diner
Inhoud verpakking: Doos
Opmerking verpakking:
Min. bestel hoeveelheid: 1
Datum :
Proefdoos: Nee

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