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2009 Antonio Caggiano Taurasi Macchia dei Goti

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2009 Antonio Caggiano Taurasi Macchia dei Goti

€ 35,95
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EAN: 8032597591106
Availability:
Wijnsoort: Rood
Druif:
Inhoud fles: 0.75 ltr
Land: Italië
Streek:
Wijnhuis: Antonio Caggiano
Jaar: 2009
Drinken: 2015-2026
Bubbels: Zonder Bubbels
Biologisch: Niet Biologisch
Duurzaam: Nee
Alcohol: 13,5%
Smaaktype: Vol en krachtig
Datum :
Dit Product verwachten we op de aangeven datum in ons magazijn. U kunt deze wel al bestellen zodat u zeker bent van uw bestelling maar mocht u meer bestellen dan zullen we pas versturen wanneer de volledige bestelling gereed is
Rating: 94

Dit product als geschenk versturen in mooie verpakking?

In de New York Times werd de Macchia verkozen tot beste rode Aglianicowijn en wij zijn het hier helemaal mee eens. Zo mooi!!! Beoordeling: 93 Parkerpunten. Vergisting in RVS op gecontroleerde temperatuur. Gisting vindt plaats in nieuwe Franse houten vaten van verschillende soorten voor 10-12 maanden. Een stevige fruitige wijn met een vleugje kruiden, geroosterde noten en een kleine hint van drop en teer. Prachtig uitgebalanceerd en zacht en delicaat in de mond met een hoge concentratie van fraaie rijpe tannines.

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/12/dining/reviews/aglianico-emerges-from-the-bottom-of-italys-boot.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

By ERIC ASIMOV
Published: June 6, 2013

The vast ocean of wine that is Italy is fed by many rivers. Sangiovese and nebbiolo, universally considered to be among the world's great grapes, pour in to acclaim. They are joined by great floods of crowd-pleasers like pinot grigio and workhorses like montepulciano and trebbiano, which account for many serviceable but indistinct wines. Lesser-known varieties trickle in from all directions, adding wonderful flavors and nuances.
Tasting Report

The panel tasted Aglianicos, Italian reds from Campania.
1.ANTONIO CAGGIANO
Taurasi Macchia dei Goti 2008 ***
$52
Balanced and lovely, structured yet approachable, with savory flavors that linger.

Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.
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2.SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
3.TERREDORA DI PAOLO CAMPANIA
4.MASTROBERARDINO
5.GIOVIANO IRPINIA
6.BASILISCO
7.MUSTO CARMELITANO
8.MICHELE ALOIS CAMPANIA
9.DONNACHIARA
10.OCONE
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Tasting Coordinator: Bernard Kirsch
Best Value
Related
Pairings: Pork Chops With a Lusty Neapolitan Topping (June 12, 2013)
One of my favorites is a red grape that seems largely taken for granted, when it's thought of at all. It stirs little excitement. I'm not sure why, because I find the wines delicious, structured and age-worthy.

I'm talking about aglianico, the primary red grape of Campania, which encompasses Naples and Salerno on the western coast of southern Italy, and of Basilicata, the arch and instep of the boot. Aglianico has been termed the Barolo of the South, a seemingly admiring phrase made hollow by a patronizing note. Yes, the tannins, acidity and dark flavors in aglianico bear a resemblance to the great Piemontese wine. But aglianico has much to offer of its own. Perhaps it's time to shed the notion that aglianico's value comes from what it resembles rather than from what it is.

To get a clearer sense of aglianico, the wine panel recently tasted 20 bottles from Campania and Basilicata. All the wines were from recent vintages. For more-accessible wines, the latest releases were from the 2011 vintage. More age-worthy wines might receive prolonged cellaring at the winery; the most recent release for some was 2006.

Florence Fabricant and I were joined for the tasting by Joe Campanale, the beverage director and a proprietor of four New York restaurants, including Dell'anima and L'Artusi in the West Village, and Liz Nicholson, the wine director at Maialino, who in September will become a sommelier at Marea.

All of us share the perception that aglianico is underappreciated. Liz has tried to do something about it at Maialino, where her wine list has quite a few aglianicos in the Southern Hospitality section.

"Maybe the wines people are embracing are lighter, softer and easier going," Joe speculated. He may be right. The red wines of Sicily, which have caused such excitement in recent years, tend to be fresher and more agile, and many wines that can age for decades, whether Bordeaux, Napa cabernet or Brunello di Montalcino, have been purposely made more accessible at an earlier age. Yet people haven't turned their backs on Barolo, which, like the more age-worthy aglianicos, can require significant aging to soften its tannic intensity.

Not that aglianico is heavy by any means. We were all impressed by the consistently high quality of these wines. Some, as the range of vintages suggested, were more immediately approachable, while others will continue to benefit from aging. We found big differences in texture and density, but most of the wines were distinctively structured and earthy, with flavors of red fruit, licorice and menthol.

"I was imagining even more tannic, massive wines," Joe said.

As is true in many parts of the world, the aglianico producers in our tasting seemed to have backed way off their earlier use of small barrels of new French oak. The tannins in the wines seemed to have come naturally from the grapes. We detected little in the way of oak tannins or the vanilla and chocolate flavors imposed by the barrels.

Most of the wines came from Campania, which has a range of aglianico appellations. Taurasi is the most famous and prestigious, perhaps rightfully so — three of our top four wines were Taurasis. It's also generally the most expensive, with wines usually ranging from $30 to $65.

Other Campania appellations include Aglianico del Taburno and Irpinia, while the best appellation from Basilicata is generally Aglianico del Vulture. As one might guess from this land of extinct volcanoes like Mount Vulture and decidedly active ones like Mount Vesuvius, aglianico thrives in volcanic soil, especially on sunny hillsides where the ripening season can stretch well into the fall.

Our No. 1 wine was the 2008 Macchia dei Goti Taurasi from Antonio Caggiano, beautifully balanced and lovely to drink right now but with the potential to age. The relative delicacy of this wine made for a nice contrast with our No. 2 bottle, the 2006 Taurasi from Salvatore Molettieri, a powerhouse full of chunky, dark, complex flavors. Together they demonstrate a versatility of textures and densities.

The third Taurasi among our top four wines was the 2007 Mastroberardino Radici, a wine of great concentration and structure that will continue to improve. Mastroberardino is the great historical name of Taurasi and Campania, and almost single-handedly for decades made a case for the greatness of aglianico. I've had wines from the 1960s that have held up beautifully.

In the 1990s, a split within the Mastroberardino family resulted in the name's staying with one branch and the vineyards going with another at Terredora Di Paolo, the producer of our No. 3 bottle, the 2010 Campania. This wine, which is not from one of the more prestigious regions, is intended to be easy to drink at an early age. While it won't age like the three Taurasis and doesn't have their complexity, it is delicious now and a great deal at just $16.

Many of these producers are familiar names, but it was a pleasure after our tasting to learn of some new producers whose wines I hadn't tasted before, like Gioviano, the source of our No. 5 bottle, the fresh, graceful, aromatic 2008 Irpinia Aglianico.

Our two top wines from Basilicata, the 2006 Aglianico del Vulture from Basilisco and the '09 Aglianico del Vulture from Musto Carmelitano, were also new to me. Age had softened the Basilisco, while the Musto Carmelitano, three years younger, was dense but savory. Incidentally, I wouldn't sell the Basilicata wines short. I've had fascinating wines from the region, and I believe it has great potential.

As the weather gets warmer and summer approaches, imagine these wines accompanying steaks and sausages sizzling on the grill or ribs in the smoker. Aglianicos are just right; savory and robust enough to stand up to such dishes, while lively and intriguing enough to refresh. That sounds like a great combination to me.

Tasting Report

Antonio Caggiano, $52, ***
Taurasi Macchia dei Goti 2008
Balanced and lovely, structured yet approachable, with savory flavors that linger. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)

Salvatore Molettieri, $40, ***
Taurasi Vigna Cinque Querce 2006
Dense, tannic, structured and powerful, packed with dark, spicy flavors. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)

BEST VALUE
Terredora di Paolo Campania, $16, ***
Aglianico 2010
Light-bodied and supple yet intense, with earthy, smoky, plummy flavors. (Vias Imports, New York)

Mastroberardino, $45, ***
Taurasi Radici 2007
Great concentration and structure, with balanced flavors of red fruits and licorice; needs time still. (A Leonardo LoCascio Selection/Winebow, New York)

Gioviano Irpinia, $24, ***
Aglianico 2008
Fresh, complex, graceful and aromatic, with earthy flavors of red fruits and herbs. (Critical Mass Selections/T. Elenteny Imports, New York)

Basilisco, $25, ** ½
Aglianico del Vulture 2006
Soft and inviting, with mellow flavors of dark fruits and licorice. (Soilair Selection, New York)

Musto Carmelitano, $25, ** ½
Aglianico del Vulture Pian del Moro 2009
Tannic and dense, with savory, spicy, plummy flavors. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)

Michele Alois Campania, $18, ** ½
Aglianico 2009
Bright yet earthy, with savory, gamy, almost saline flavors. (Soilair Selection, New York)

Donnachiara, $30, ** ½
Taurasi 2008
Fresh and fragrant, with soft, plummy fruit flavors and a touch of menthol. (Michelangelo Selection, Manhasset, N.Y.)

Ocone, $16, ** ½
Aglianico del Taburno Apollo 2007
Round, pleasing, balanced and approachable, with floral, herbal aromas and flavors of red fruits. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)

Antonio Caggiano is een eigenzinnige en extraverte wijnmaker. Tevens is hij fotograaf en architect en heeft zijn kelders in 1990 zelf gebouwd. Deels voor plezier, deels voor de uitdaging om de geuren en smaken van de Taurasi wijn te herontdekken. Deze kelders verraden zijn katholieke geloof. De verschillende gewelfde kelders zien eruit alsof er ieder moment een mis kan beginnen. Ook de verlichting van oude wijnvaten heeft Caggiano zelf ontworpen en gemaakt.
De wijnen van Caggiano zijn heel bijzonder. Zijn topwijn is de Taurasi Vina Macchia dei Goti, de ‘Barolo van het zuiden’. Verder maakt hij een prachtige Fiano di Avelino en Greco di Tufo, de 2 meest typische witte druiven uit Campania. Beide wijnen zijn vernoemd naar verre oorden die Caggiono bezocht heeft. Het wijnhuis maakt drie verschillende DOCG’s en slechts weinigen doen hem dat na. In de New York Times werd de Macchia verkozen tot beste rode Aglianicowijn en wij zijn het hier helemaal mee eens.

Rating: 94
Beoordeling 2006 & 2010- de 2009 is nog niet beoordeeld

Wine Advocate #189 Jun 2010

The 2006 Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti is incredibly young and tannic. Vibrant dark cherries, plums, minerals, tar and incense reluctantly emerge as this large-scaled Taurasi gradually takes shape in the glass. Clean mineral notes keep the wine focused and energetic on the finish. Everything is beautifully balanced, including the oak, which at times has been far more intrusive. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

Caggiano is one of Campania’s leading producers. The strengths here are the reds, which are some of the most up-front, immediate Aglianicos readers are likely to come across. 

eRobertParker.com #218 Apr 2015

The 2010 Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti is no doubt one of the best expressions of this historic wine to date. The bouquet is penetrating and deep with elegantly presented tones of dark fruit, prune, dark mineral, smoke, cherry liqueur and natural rubber. Those earthy, dark mineral tones really are this wine’s signature trait. The tannins have been managed well, showing structure and no bitter astringency. This wine should hold nicley for a decade or more. 

A girl never forgets her first visit to Antonio Caggiano. I am a long admirer of his work (especially the beautiful Taurasi Macchia dei Goti that remains one of my favorite wines of the region) and set up an appointment to visit the winery in 2006. With knowing winks and giggles, my Italian colleagues cautioned me in going alone. Within a few meters of the cavernous entrance, I understood why. As my eyes adjusted to the light, I saw that the walls were covered in softly erotic photographic images. Antonio Caggiano walked through his cellar without a second glance. Many of the pieces had obviously been hanging there for years and evoked no reaction from the vintner or the people who work in his cellar. But I found it difficult to look elsewhere. My award to most awkward winery visit goes to Mr. Caggiano.

Wijnsoort: Rood
Druif: Aglianico
Inhoud fles: 0.75 ltr
Land: Italië
Streek: Campania
Wijnhuis: Antonio Caggiano
Website URL:
Jaar: 2009
Drinken: 2015-2026
Bubbels: Zonder Bubbels
Dessertwijn: Nee
Biologisch: Niet Biologisch
Duurzaam: Nee
Alcohol: 13,5%
Smaaktype: Vol en krachtig
Serveertemperatuur: 16-18
Afsluiting fles: Kurk
Drink-moment: Borrel, Diner
Inhoud verpakking: Doos
Opmerking verpakking:
Min. bestel hoeveelheid: 1
Datum :
Proefdoos: Nee

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